Cheapo DeLorean Model Conversion
The model DeLoreans from HobbyLink Japan are, in my opinion, of extremely good quality (for an air-fix kit) and are certainly a reasonably priced novelty for a DMC enthusiast. However, the models are based on the "Back to the Future" films, and so have all sorts of nonsense attached to them that is not on the normal, non-time-travelling, version. The main difference is at the rear of the model, where the classic louvre engine cover has been replaced with plutonium chambers and other such scientific gubbins. I have read that someone in the US is producing replacement parts to convert these models into to standard editions, but last time I checked on the DMC Mailing List, the replacement parts were several times the cost of the original model. Hmmm. So being a right tight-wad, I decided to make my own alterations, based on a printed picture of a D taken from behind. The result isn't too bad at all and only took an hour so I thought maybe some other D fans would like to consider my economical methods. It shouldn't matter if you have already constructed your model - I had, and managed to pull it apart quite easily.
Here's what I used - use your common sense to select alternative materials to mine:
- One cereal packet (This is just like 'Blue Peter' really)
- One black marker, to colour in the parts made
- Some All-Purpose adhesive, like Bos-Tik or UHU
- A model DeLorean
- Small knife, a ruler and a drawing implement (I used a ball-point pen, but a sharp pencil would be better)
I should point out now that my methods were far from accurate, so similarly, these instructions are just as shoddy.
1. Make the New Parts
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I actually used a drawing program to make the first part, but it wouldn't be difficult to do with pen and paper. You need to make an stretched out trapezium with the dimensions shown (left). The dimensions of the hole in the middle aren't fantastically important (ie. I didn't measure any, just cut out what looked okay), but it turned out that the inside edge running parallel to the 45mm edge was 40mm long, which was handy as you'll see later. Anyway, draw and cut out the shape from your cereal packet card.
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Next you need to make 4 flats to go into the hollow trapezium. On the diagram right, I have labelled the horizontal distance 'x' because it is different for each flat. The values for x are: 40, 42, 44 and 46. Notice that this is the distance excluding the little flappy bits either end. I simply drew four rectangles and when cutting them out, cut about 2mm longer either side and then notched out two corners.
Now colour in all the bits of card, both sides - I didn't have any problems with the card going soggy and soft, but keep it in mind and find thicker card if necessary. Most cereal packets have a glossy outer coating, which means you have the choice of gloss or matt finish on the parts, depending which way you stick them in. The wonders of modern science!
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2. Pulling Apart the Model D
You now have everything you need. I haven't found a neat way of cheaply producing the glass to go on the sides I'm afraid. But the main thing is, I think it looks better at the end than it did at the start. Time to disassemble the model. As long as you weren't too over-zealous with the glue, you should be able to simply (but carefully) pull the grey chassis away from the wheels and base. Hang on... I never bothered sticking on those massive CO2 exhausts that sit above the rear lights. If you did, remove them first and stamp on them. Put the base safely to one side. Then pull out the horizontal panel that the plutonium chamber sits on, along with the vertical piece it is attached to (the piece with the flux capacitor on it). You need both these parts, so don't break them - breaking the glue's adhesion was not tricky for me, but I only used bog-standard Bos-tik. If the two panels described above become dis-attached from each other, stick them back together again - they don't need to be separate.
3. So you've wrecked a cereal packet and smashed the model
You won't like the next bit, because it's time for some pernament damage. Sorry, but thats the way it is. I will try to describe this accurately to avoid confusion. On the plutonium chamber panel you removed, pull off all the bits that are stuck on. Now, on the panel there are 2 raised areas where the big exhausts meet the panel. Behind each of these mounds there is a raised square patch. These cubes are too high I'm afraid and need chopping off to about the same level as the exhaust-mounds. A bit of force is needed to slice through the plastic, but it's not too difficult. I didn't have to mutilate any other parts of the panel, but you may wish to either for easier fitting or for aesthetics - I think the remaining mouldings on the panel look relatively engine-like.
Okay, nearly there now. Grab the chassis and turn it upside down. See how the trapezium you made fits in. The wider end can slot in to chassis where the plutonium chamber panel did. Ideally the narrow end shouldn't be tight against the ridge the flux-capacitor panel rests against on the roof, as the panel has to go back in. Trim the ends if necessary to allow the flux-panel back in. The flux and plutonium panels will no longer fit well with the cardboard additions, but once everythings back together the sloppiness is not noticeable.
Once you are happy with the fit of the trapezium, divide the length of the inside edge by four, or simply estimate 4 equal-length divisions. Make small marks on the back to indicate the divisions. These marks are where the flats will go. Stick the trapezium into the chassis before trying to fit the flats (I reckon it's easier that way). Take your widest flat and insert the 'x' dimension part through the trapezium (all parts are installed from 'inside' the chassis). This flat rests on the bottom of the trapezium. Put a small blob of glue where the flappy bits touch the trapezium sides. This does not fix the flaps at all rigidly, but allows them to move while keeping them attached to the trapezium. Now do the same for the other three flaps, going from widest to narrowest. Once done, stick the plutonium and flux panels back into the chassis. Remember they won't be a good fit, especially as the plutonium panel can no longer slot into it's rightful place. However, I found it doesn't need to be tight, the base will still fit on easily. The flaps will rest on the time-travelling gubbins as they are not rigid but they seem to all be horizontal.
4. Oh Me Oh My What a Mess
That is pretty much it. Put the chassis back on the base and bobs your uncle. I know it sounds dodgy, but it worked for me and I'm no master modeller. I'm pleased with the results and think it looks better for it. If you think it'll all end in tears then don't do it, either leave the model as it is or buy the professional conversion. I just like to offer an alternative.
Any comments or questions? Please send to : laddie@globalnet.co.uk.
The first, widest flat sits on the bottom inside edge of the trapezium.