MIDI Home Studio
Introduction
Home studios range from a single MIDI keyboard plus cassette recorder to
complex systems with 16 track hard disk recorders. Installations can be
temporary bedroom lash-ups or high standard annex installations complete with patch bays
and rack mounted equipment.
Planning
Planning should begin with deciding what your musical requirements are. Next
choose a flexible system to fulfill those requirements. Then consider where you will
install the equipment and in what order. Finally consider what it will all cost.
Checklist
- what will the studio be used for?
- what equipment will you need?
- what room is available?
- which items will you assemble first?
- how much will it cost?
Decide what equipment is essential for your enterprise but do allow for expansion
and upgrading.
Must haves (eventually)
- a keyboard: if possible choose one that has
- velocity sensitive keys
- internal sounds
- local on/off control
- internal drum sounds
- full-size keys
- 5 or more octaves
- a sequencer: either stand alone (hardware) or computer based (software)
(see the earlier section on sequencers for the pros and cons of both types)
- expander (a synth without a keyboard): choose one that
- is multitimbral
- is polyphonic
- has good quality sounds
- monitor amplifier and loud speakers
- cassette recorder
Non essential equipment
- an additional recorder:
The type will depend on the main use your studio will be put to
- Digital Audio Tape (D.A.T.) machine
- reel to reel tape recorder : 2 track or multitrack
- hard disk recorder
- mini disk recorder
- a mixer:
Endless re plugging can become very irksome so consider
- the minimum number of inputs
- the minimum number of outputs
- how many auxiliary inputs and outputs you will need
- a computer:
Choose one of the robust types used by industry and business
e.g. an IBM compatible or Apple Mac.
Consider what else will you use it for and how much (hard disk) memory you will
need for each use e.g. music, internet, database, w.p., d.t.p, multimedia e.t.c.
How much random access memory (R.A.M.) will you need?
What is the processor speed?
If the computer is elderly, check it has enough expansion slots (for adding sound
cards e.t.c.) and that the power supply can cope with the extra circuit boards.
What sort of MIDI interface will you use?
What software will you need? Do you just want to sequence and edit MIDI files?
Do you intend to print out notation? Will you be sampling? Try to get some "hands
on" (ears on) experience of each piece of software before you purchase and go
for established, up gradable programs.
- a synchronizer:
Necessary if you intend to combine audio (or video) tracks with MIDI tracks.
- a drum machine:
Consider
- the number of sounds
- the sound quality (sampled or synthesized)
- how large are the pads?
- how much memory is there for storing sequences (patterns)?
- can patterns be edited on board?
- can the memory be dumped via a MIDI link?
- can sounds be "randomized" (given slight fluctuations in loudness and timing)?
Remember, your drum machine must have a MIDI IN if it's to be played from a
sequencer.
- a sampler:
A.good quality sound requires
- 16 bit resolution
- high sampling rate(s)
Choose a machine with
- a large R.A.M. for more recording time
- multitimbral capability: so you can assign different samples
to different MIDI
program numbers / channels
- a number of outputs (stereo and mono): for easy mixing
- a good library of sounds: to save you months of sampling and editing
- automatic looping
- a port (socket) for connecting a hard disk drive
- digital output: for recording to D.A.T.
- MIDI dump standard compatibility
- a separate reverberation unit
- microphones:
A selection of dynamic and capacitor mics in the £50 - 200
($80 - 300) price range
- a compressor / limiter (an audio signal processor)
Ancillary equipment
The bad news is that the cost of small items can add up to a lot of money.
The good news is
- you may be able to borrow bits and pieces from friends
* always keep a list of what you borrow to avoid disputes
* consider colour coding your gear, again to avoid disputes
- faults are usually obvious or easy to fix
* so it is fairly safe to buy second hand
* you can make some items yourself or improvise
Depending on what you hope to achieve, you might need
- a combo amplifier for guitar or keyboard
- stands
- cables (mains,audio, MIDI)
- splitter boxes
- Direct Injection (D.I.) boxes
- headphones
- foot switch
- head demagnetizer
- MIDI splitter
- MIDI merger
- supply of tapes with labels
Setting up
Racks
Equipment mounted in racks is safer, tidier and easier to use. Units can be
mounted in
- large floor standing racks
- lighter tabletop racks
- flight cases
- wooden cabinets
Rackable units are normally a standard 19 inches wide. Some are half this width so
you can fit 2 such units side by side in a rack. Unit heights range from 1U to 30U
and beyond. A typical 3U unit is 3.5 inches high.
You should
- mount those units which need the most adjusting at a comfortable height.
- ensure adequate ventilation at all times
equipment will be switched on for hours and may be left unattended
- leave access to the back of racks for plugging
Power supply
Electricity is such a part of our everyday lives that it is easy to become
complacent and careless.
The following safety suggestions apply to the UK where the mains power supply
is 240 volts a.c. Wherever you are, if you are in doubt about the safety of your
installation, consult a qualified electrician or electrical engineer.
Fit an isolating switch which will allow power to be instantly cut in an emergency. (Do not use the isolator for simultaneously switching all your gear on or off in normal conditions). A Residual Current Circuit Breaker (R.C.C.B.) is desirable, especially if you work
alone. They now cost as little as £15 from D.I.Y. stores.
Have sufficient 13A outlets (sockets) e.g. 20. Fit the correct size
fuse in each plug. You will need 1A, 2A or 3A fuses for mains powered electronic
equipment not 13A. Check the back of the equipment or the operator's manual tofind the power requirements of each unit. Keep spare fuses handy and never use anything in place of a proper fuse. Label plugs e.g. with a spirit based black felt tip pen. Switch units on separately to avoid power surges. Some apparatus is "double insulated" and is supplied with a mains
lead that has no earth wire but if a unit is supplied with an earth wire in the mains
lead, use it. Route audio cables away from power units and mains
leads. Hum loops can be eliminated by removing one end of the screen that
surrounds a twin + screen audio cable. If you make a convention of detaching the
screen at the mixer end of the cable you will know which end to go to when you
reinstate the connection. A unit does not have to be switched on to complete a
hum loop. Avoid thyristor dimmers in your studio and, if possible, use incandescent
lamps (light bulbs) rather than fluorescent tubes or economy lamps.
Cables
Route cables so that people will not trip over them. Keep cables as short as
possible but allow for rearranging or replacing units. Ideally, mains leads and
audio cables should cross at right angles. Lapped screen leads may be adequate
for short runs but use braided screen cables for longer runs (and for gigging). Use
some sort of colour code to distinguish audio cables, MIDI cables and speaker
cables. Do not use audio leads as MIDI leads; they may be cross wired (with mirror image connections). Avoid
running MIDI cables alongside audio cables. Keep audio cables away from
computers too. Opto isolators are fitted at the MIDI INs and cannot protect your units
if you carelessly connect two MIDI OUTs or two MIDI THRUs together.
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Technical Skills
- Soldering
- Tape Editing (Historical)
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All product names mentioned in this document are trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners. Photo images used with kind permission.
Copyright (c)1997 D. Barnes
Music Technology Handouts/MIDI Home Studio/November 1997