Feedback of the ride

This is a personal account of my experience in Malawi. I am a long time cyclist - though recent developments have restricted my ability but not enthusiasm and passion for the sport. Frequent practise was made to ensure that the cycling would not be to much of an issue for the trip. (That's my excuse to my wife). I had high hopes for 'The Africa Bike Ride', but for me it became 'The Malawi Experience'. I do not wish to give account of all the places visited and or stayed at, but relate how the warmth of this country and people touched me. Cycling has a reputation as a social leveler or a non threatening mode of access. This ride was to become of secondary importance to the cultural experience gained from the warmth of these people. In order to start our journey north along the lake, a bus transfer was made back to the lake road, through the village of Salima to the Kasipa School for a send off. The school had arranged and rehearsed a song and dance routine for our privilege. After farewells we proceeded to the road for our journey. Most of the school accompanied me by running alongside in the road, for a while, waving and slapping my hands enthusiastically. I rode on with painful hands and a strong sense that the ride would hold a warm welcome for us. This sort of response was not unusual from schools and I was frequently accompanied by highly excited children running along at my pace. The occupants of many villages were highly amused and roared with laughter as I passed through on my funny 'bicycle'. The greetings were warm frequently with two hand waves. The road side conversations genuine as to our purpose. Malawi has the highest population in Africa - the majority of dwellings, seem to be concentrated around the more lowland areas, as the lake has a valuable food source. Simple farming and collecting food appeared to be the major occupation for many of the inhabitants. Though cultivated land could not easily be distinguished form the natural vegetation. The 'bush' had many small, simply built dwellings with dried grass roofs accessed with many tracks leading from the road connecting to these dwellings or villages. Hence the roads were an important means of access and were frequently used by the locals for access on foot or by bike. Objects, without apparent regard for size appeared to be carried with ease, poised on the head. The scenery remained interesting and varied throughout our ride from the relatively lowland to higher more hilly regions. The previous months rainy season had lead to prolific under growth and tall elephant grasses and the land assumed a mainly green colour at the moment. The Dwambazi river crossing formed notable highlight to the ride. Last years rains formed a flash flood several meters above the road bridge. It was unable to withstand this onslaught and was washed downstream. In order to keep access open, a causeway was built, with the oversight to divert the water flow. Consequently it was a boat ride across the dam! Accommodation provided was frequently taken in lakeside lodges, offering adequate comfort with substantial food - hungry cyclists will eat anything. Often access to these lodges was achieved by very technical tracks from the road. Confidence and experience was seen to increase throughout the week by some - though some very colourful trophies were collected on route! One lunchtime beach break was accessed via a very sandy track impeding my progress. The promise of a small amount of local currency to some local enthusiastic lads solved the problem and I proceeded to and from the beach at a enthusiastic pace and they were delighted. Malawi is situated in the north, approximately 1000 km from the equator, consequently it is warm. Exposure to the sun light has a fiery warmth. Early starts to the rides meant some shelter from exposure to the mid-day warmth. The humidity could also be very high, with torrential rain not unusual - but with guaranteed drying, this did not poise a problem. Personally the climate was to my liking - that probably comes from cycling in a deck-chair! The Bolero junior school, in Nkhata Bay, was selected to be the recipient of our support in the form of much needed school supplies and it was arranged to meet up for the exchange. However unknown to us, they had gathered on the quay-side to form a welcoming avenue of song and dance as we arrived at twilight. Saturday morning was to be the official exchange, when we were to visit the school. However unusually heavy rain (by Malawi standards) prevented this. The decision was taken for the school to visit us. Hence the arrival of some very wet and cold children! Formalities over, the children filed away from the lodge carrying heavy boxes - no problem, on their heads! During the week I was intrigued to experience how these people lived comparatively simply yet remained so happy. One afternoon following the ride, I followed the lake shore into reeds. Three small smiling girls were keen to show the path through to the beach, the other end. Arriving at a dug out canoe on the shore, we chatted to some local lads as they resourcefully made a football, from plastic bags and string. Davis, a father of some of the boys came to join us. The afternoon was spent discussing cultural differences. Then the request to take his photograph came, for a keepsake. Returning with my camera, I became a special guest, meeting many of his relatives with his mother and his children and was freely welcomed into his home, but it was me who felt the honour of their trust. Thanks to the support crew who greased the cogs and kept the show on the road. Many thanks for the 'team' vote and prize for the 'Man of Malawi' award I am touched and feel indebted to all your support and kindness.