Lanzarote - August 1999

The Canary Isle group consists of 7 large islands and 6 smaller ones of reefs, stretching approx. 500 km from east to west (27'38' to 29'25' longitude north) and more than 200 km. from north to south (13'20' and 18'9' latitude west), and covering an area of 7499 square kilometres in all. Lanzarote, the north-easternmost island in the archipelago, only 125 km from the African mainland, has a total area of 795 km, making it by far the largest of the Canary Isles. Lanzarote, like the other islands, is of volcanic origin, but here volcanoes have still been active in 18th and 19th century.

The island was completely re-sculpted by the great volcanic eruptions of the 18th cebtury. From 1730 to 1736, the earth spat fire almost continuously. The lava masses buried a third of the entire island. Whole villages disappeared, and what had once been fertile ground was covered by metre-high lava ash. This was the birth of the Montanas del Fuego or Fire Mountains. In the six years of eruptions, more than 100 volcanoes rose up, covering more than 50 square kilometres. In 1968, the region of the Fire Mountains was declared a national park, the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya. Great parts of its surface are covered with ashes and lava, making you feel that you were on the moon.

The Canaries are officially part of Spain and in 1986, became members of the EEC. However luckily for inhabitants and visitors, they have a tax-exempt status. This makes them a gadget hunter's paradise with many shops advertising 'lowest prices on the island' for most types of cameras, watches and other electronic goods.

Climate is good all year round. Temperatures in winter rarely fall below 16 degrees C, or in summer 25 degrees C. The steady breeze in the summer takes the edge off the higher midday temperatures which makes it a very pleasant place to be. Visitors should take care in the sun, it is still strong and it is easy to burn without protection.

The standards of safety are very high with pre-dive briefings in a number of languages before every dive. All levels of diver are catered for and the dives are varied to suit. Beach dives are available every morning and boat dives on most afternoons. The night diving is also first class. Full kit hire is also available including dive computers and all dives are kept within no-decompression limits. The changing facilities are slightly cramped but are literally one step from the beach. This does add to the atmosphere, especially after last night's mega-paella. I arrived on my own as nobody in my family dives but soon made diving buddies from the UK, Eire, Holland, France and Spain.

It is possible to see a fantastic variety of fish in the clear Atlantic waters off Lanzarote. There are over 500 different types listed and most of these can be seen at different times of the year. Near to the dive centre is an area designated as an underwater conservation park which has a number of interesting wrecks. Visibility is a very good 10 to 30 metres plus depending on tides. The eclipse of the sun happened while I was there and the relatively strong pull of the moon meant that tides were fairly extreme at this time. Even with this additional surge the vis was rarely less than 10 metres during the second week.

Weekly Program and Divesite Descriptions

Safari Diving operate a full program of guided dives for the beginner and experienced divers alike. Generally there are two dives per day with divers booking in either on the morning or in advance during the previous day (definitely recommended for boat dives which tend to fill up quite quickly). Single divers are welcomed and will be buddy matched during the pre-dive briefing with divers of similar qualification.

With divers of many nationalities the pre-dive briefing puts the emphasis on safety. Signals are reviewed and re-confirmed in the divers native language as are cylinder minimum pressures hand signals before exit etc. All dives are no decompression dives. Computers are used where possible to ensure profiles are well within safe limits (divers without computers can hire these at very nominal rates together with full equipment hire if required). The atmosphere is friendly and divers qualifications are reviewed to ensure the dive will be within the individuals limits.

During the summer of 1999 the following weekly program was offered:

Divesite Descriptions

Entry is from the beach outside Safari Diving (Playa de la Barrilla). Surface swim to the left of the bay then free descent to 14m. Follow along the reef to the left and over a drop-off which leads down to the Cathedral at approximately 30 mtrs. The Cathedral is a large cave with no clear view to surface which funnels down towards the rear. There are alcoves of finger coral and small shrimp and glass fish at the far end. There are many soft corals on the cave walls and roof. Grouper are sometimes found here early in the morning before too many visitors have arrived. If diving in a group try to stay to the front, the first few divers will kick up some silt and the visibility will become poor quite quickly. A torch is also required to pick up some of the subtle colours and appreciate the deeper recesses.