Cambrian Mountains Landscape
Introduction

The natural beauty of the plateaux, valleys and gorges of the Cambrian Mountains is equal to and often greater than that of some British national parks. Although politically distributed among three counties - Powys, Ceredigion & Carmarthenshire - the Cambrian Mountains are geographically one area, and form the main watershed of Wales. The rivers Severn, Wye, Elan, Irfon, Tywi, Cothi, Teifi, Ystwyth, Rheidol, and Twymyn all have their sources here.

The Cambrian Mountains are one of the few remote areas left in Southern Britain, have the least light pollution, and are one of the few places where one can escape from the sound of traffic. The A44 is the only main road crossing the area, much of which is inaccessible by vehicle, and thinly populated.

From the high ground in the Cambrian Mountains can be seen apparently endless vistas across the plateaux, which are jewelled with small lakes, such as the Llynnoedd Cerrigllwydion, Llyn Carw, Llyn Gynon, Llyn Gwyngu, Llynnoedd Fyrddon and Llyn Du. It is these extensive plateau views which are the hallmark of the Cambrian Mountains landscape.

A different kind of natural beauty is to be found in the valleys, such as those of the Afon Gwesyn and Rhiwnant, with their numerous striking waterfalls, the equals of many "world famous" waterfalls in this country; Cwm Arban and the upper reaches of the Irfon and Tywi; and the serene tranquillity of the Doethie and Pysgotwr valleys - places where time stands still.

In the Cambrian Mountains, it is still possible to experience harmony with nature and the natural elements, and to find solitude and "escape" in our crowded country: "Quite simply, there is nothing in Wales to compare to the wilderness and sense of utter solitude that surrounds these vast empty moorlands." (The High Summits of Wales. Graham Uney, Logaston Press 1999. ISBN: 1873827652).

It is the special quality of remoteness which characterises the area and makes it of national significance. It has a strong sense of openness, and those modern features which do occur, such as wind turbines on exposed summits, are intrusive elements in an otherwise unspoiled and rugged landscape.

Despite giving the impression of wildness, the Cambrian Mountains are a "living landscape"; their natural beauty is the result of interaction between natural forces and human activity. The landscape and its beauty are maintained by the local communities, landowners, farmers and estate managers who look after them. These people have helped mould the landscape for centuries, and this continues today.

Landscape Types

A detailed assessment of the landscape of the Cambrian Mountains was published in 1990 by the Countryside Commission*.

It classified the landscape on the basis of particular combinations of landform and land cover. Landform is the main determinant of the landscape, and was used to provide a broad classification into the four categories listed below. (These four categories were then further divided on the basis of differences in topography and in vegetation and land use, to produce nineteen distinct landscape types).

Upland plateaux
These form the heart of the Cambrian Mountains. The plateau landscapes range from high and irregular peaks and knobs (which rise to 700m and include Pumlumon Fawr) to extensive plateau tops (450-500m) and shallow rolling plateaux (300-500m). These landscapes are typically wild, windswept, remote and covered by rough moorland vegetation. Large areas are only accessible on foot, and the moorlands offer extensive "wilderness" walks with distant panoramic views.

Plateau margins
The plateau margin landscapes vary from dramatic cliffs and cirques to fragmented hill slopes and saddles. Substantial elevation changes affect the land cover in these areas, which range from windswept upland moor, scree slopes and plantations of sitka spruce at 500m, to enclosed farmland at 150m. The Dulas Scarp in the north and Pont Marteg cirque on the A44 are highly visible and important landscape features for visitors to the area, but many of the hill slopes and saddles are inaccessible and often less attractive.

Narrow valleys
The narrow valleys make up the largest proportion of the area. They cover a wide variety of landforms, from gorges and ravines to U-shaped valleys, but they are all upland stream or river corridors, draining directly from the upper plateaux. The land cover variation is also great, ranging from moorland to conifer plantations, and inbye pasture to mixed woodland and thick broadleaved woodland. A number of these valleys have also been flooded to form reservoirs, creating further variety.

Broad valleys
The broad valleys include wide river corridors and river confluences. They are characterised by flat valley bottoms with enclosed farmland and settlements. Major roads pass through the valleys, providing the main entry points and access corridors through the area. Valley sides are steep and historically have been wooded. Some broadleaved woodlands remain, but many have been cleared for pasture or replaced by coniferous plantations.

*The Cambrian Mountains Landscape, CCP 293. A4, colour, 48pp - a superb publication, crammed with maps, photos watercolour sketches and information. Now sadly out of print.