Lifeboat Visit

On Saturday 12 June, the Islay Lifeboat "Helmut Schroder" paid a courtesy call to Colonsay, by invitation of the pupils of Kilchattan Primary School. The new and highly impressive craft made light of unpleasant conditions and one and all were made welcome aboard for a tour of inspection. Sadly, new regulations made a "trip round the bay" impossible, and have even led to the construction of a special "members of the public" gangway for boarding purposes. Colonsay was honoured to test the gangway for the first time, and relieved to find that it worked.
Sid Bowman arranged the details of the visit, and the ladies of the island held a "Bring and Buy" in MacBrayne's Waiting Room, in aid of RNLI funds. This most-popular of charities has also been assisted by various fund-raising events at Colonsay Hotel, organised by Mrs. Christine Bailey.


Millennium Celebration

The all-island Millennium Celebration in Oransay on Saturday 17 June was a great success. Despite dull weather, it was very warm and remained dry; over 170 persons were in the congregation for an Ecumenical Service in the Priory, condiucted by Rev. Freda Marshall (Church of Scotland), Fr. Michael MacDonald, (Roman Catholic) and Rev Michael Sheen (Baptist Union). A large party of parishioners from the linked Church of Scotland parish of Kilbrandon with Kilchattan came down in Lachy McLachlan's boat, a journey of almost 30 miles with a spring tide and contrary wind; and another large contingent came over from Islay on the Port Ellen divers' catamaran. Amongst the visitors there were a number of singers and musicians, including Anne Marie from Oban who sang a beautiful solo. The processional circuit of the Priory was conducted by a lay leader, Mr. Trevor Patrick, whose unexpected elevation has earned him a sobriquet as "The Visible Head".
Following the service, a huge and enjoyable picnic was held at Seal Cottage, where David Hobhouse and John Bridges had built splendid bonfires. Grateful thanks to them for their efforts, and to all others who provided help, especially Seamus MacNeill and Pede and Carol MacNeill. Particular thanks are also given for both help and hospitality to James and Sally of RSPB, Duncan and Margaret of Oransay Estate, and Mrs. F. Colburn for her kind permission and support.


A Church of Scotland camera crew were in attendance, lead by Laurence Waring; we understand that a "Training Video" was envisaged and in a future issue we will report on the outcome.


The new Columba

On 18th June, a large congregation was present at the parish church, for the baptism of Angus John Columba Brolly, son of Carol (Bridges) and George Brolly. The church was packed with babies and children, making for a very jolly atmosphere - it could not have been a happier occasion and Angus himself was positively angelic throughout.


Russian Cruiseship

On Sunday 11th, a mechanical problem delayed the ferry for a couple of hours. The tedium of the situation was relieved by the unexpected arrival of a Russian cruiseship, which anchored at Loch Staoisnaig. Within a short time, some seventy passengers had been landed by fast inflatables and spent some time exploring the island. Hopes that ancient denim suits could be exchanged for oodles of roubles and vodka were soon to be dashed - the passengers were mostly from Canada.


Engagement:



Sophie Byrne and Nicholas Furze have announced their engagement… Nicholas is the eldest son of Mr and Mrs Rupert Furze of Eaglethorpe, Cambridgeshire and Sophie is the only daughter of Kevin and Christa Byrne, Colonsay. It seems that the New Hall has been booked for May 19 2001, and that Hector MacFadyen has it noted in his diary.


Nooks and Crannies:

A couple of suggestions this week for a possible new feature - Walter Williams mentions that the flat stone "across the burn" at Kiloran is "the shinty stone". It is in the middle of a lochan at present, but it seems that it used to be the gathering place for young shinty players in the past, where they heaped there camans before and after a match. Walter also mentioned that the old cottages between Creggans and Uragaig were inhabited by MacMillan and MacLucash families; and that there is a lime kiln close to the ruins of Tigh Iain Darach at Kiloran Bay. Meantime, Donald "Gibbie" McNeill mentions that an old cottage-site out at the northwest end of Port Mor was the home of Dughall a' Rubha ("Dugald of the Point"). Seemingly Dugald served in the Peninsula war and a photograph survives of him wearing his campaign medal. The 1841 census lists a "Dugald McDuffie", 65 years, Navy Pensioner, living thereabouts with his family, although it may be the wrong Dugald?

Nature Notes:

The gale on 13 June caused damage to many flower gardens, and it is feared that the extraordinarily strong waves will have washed out the seabird nests and chicks along the west coast. Elsewhere in the island, birds have been more fortunate. Four corncrakes can be heard from the graveyard alone, and greylag geese can be seen with flurries of goslings. David Jardine has completed a seabird count, and it is hoped that he will favour us with an article on the subject. Buzzards are said to be in decline, perhaps reflecting a less abundant rabbit population; in one nest (inspected by a properly licensed researcher) there was one live and one dead chick, together with the remains of a rabbit and a snipe. A puffin has been seen pottering about. Despite the recent drought, the rainfall of early June has brought things back to normal - near Kiloran Bay car park there is zigzag clover, Burnett rose, wild rose, honeysuckle, yellow rattle, common vetch and an abundance of Northern Marsh orchid. Note Tufted and Bush vetch too, and Marsh Cinquefoil. Umbellifers are all in flower now, including Hemlock Water Dropwort which seems to be especially prolific. Both broccoli and Sweet Peas are being harvested at Colonsay House garden.

Snippets:

Jasmine Brown had a nasty fall and had to go to Oban for a check-up by the dentist - but she is back now and all is well; Frank has sold "Three Sisters" and is between boats; a meeting of Argyll & Bute council area committee was held in Colonsay and proved to be a horrible warning to us all; John Bridges spent three days on Jura and has renovated our TV repeater mast and wind-powered generator; Duncan and Margaret are back in Oransay, whilst Donald Coleman is heading for a sojourn in the Dominican Republic; a JCB has been digging test holes at the site of the new Scalasaig houses; Hughie and Jenny's house "kit" has arrived; the Colonsay Development Company will become a legal entity this week.

What's On in Colonsay

June 30th : Kilchattan Primary School holiday starts
July 11th: Important meeting in Hall with visiting IaaO dignitaries
An exhibition of work by Colonsay and Oransay artists is open before the arrival of each ferry, and is mounted in the Pier Waiting Room.
The Colonsay and Oronsay Heritage Trust is running an exhibition in the Old Waiting Room, times as advertised (usually around boat time). Colonsay House Gardens are open to the public every Wednesday, and the woodland gardens are open every day.Light lunches are available on Wednesdays, with an emphasis on organic ingredients.
There are regular BBQ's at the hotel - see notices for details.
The summer arrangements for pulpit supply are now in place. Services each Sunday are at 11.00 in Church of Scotland and 12.00 in the Baptist Church. All are welcome.

Advert:

Does anybody want to buy a couple of thousand Ballachullish slates free of freight? Surplus to requirements… they need to be trimmed and graded and are at present at the Coal Righ - contact Kevin if you are interested.

The Magazine Section

"The Spencer" emigrants to N.S. 1806,
(Part Two)


In the last issue, details of the passenger list were given, together with certain background information which was intended to put the sailing in context. The emigrations of the 1790's have already been considered and, in a future issue, it is hoped to consider the original migrants, the Pioneers who went from Colonsay to North Carolina.

Before leaving the "Spencer", it should be mentioned that she was, quite literally, a first class ship. This is very important, and was confirmed through the research of Douglas C. MacMillan. Her Lloyds number was 532, and she was "ship rigged" or three masted. At 330 tons, it was possible for Douglas MacMillan (a naval architect) to estimate her length at about 100-105 feet, beam about 25-27 feet, draught about 17-18 feet. She had a single deck with provision of beams to support a "tween deck", for the carriage of passengers on the westward run, yet with good cargo capacity for the return trip. She had been built in North or South Shields in 1778, had been repaired in 1803 and 1806 and was to continue in service until 1827. Her official classification of "E1" at Lloyds confirms that her hull was in almost perfect condition and that her equipment was first class (including four 4 - pounder guns!).

Clearly arrangements had been made for the provision of an excellent ship for this voyage. It has already been established that the most significant "leader" was Malcolm McMillan, evidently a tacksman, and it is also clear that the Bell families had been induced to join the expedition. When they reached their destination, the settlers were awarded land in Wood Islands (Lot 62 of Prince Edward Island), which had recently been acquired by Lord Selkirk. Malcolm McMillan received 200 acres at ten shillings an acre, and Malcolm Bell received 100 acres at the same price. Malcolm Bell paid a cash deposit of twenty pounds, and was the only person to do so. Malcolm MacMillan's will survives and by the time of his death he had purchased the full freehold of his property.

Evidently the two main tacksmen had made a considered decision to emigrate, accompanied by the majority of their dependents. They were not forced to go, they travelled on a good ship and arrangements had been made for their orderly reception in P.E.I.; their departure was of benefit to the laird of Colonsay, since it freed two further traditional fermtouns for integration in his scheme for a model-farm. It is already known that the departure of the Bells vacated the bulk of Balnahard, and it is now suggested that the departure of the MacMillans made Kilchattan available for the creation of new crofts.

For reasons to be given in a later article, it is apparent that the MacMillan farm at this date includes what is now known as Upper Kilchattan together with the section of Lower Kilchattan known as Baille Uachdrach. Baille Iochdrach was almost certainly unaffected by the departure of "The Spencer". At an earlier date, the MacMillan farm had extended rather more to the east, with a residence and stackyard at Torrintuirc, but the boundary had been redrawn. The placename "Balerulin" is pronounced "Baillemhaolin" and preserves the memory of the MacMillan era (I am most grateful to John Clark for a chance remark in this connection). There is, of course, no connection with the "Mullin" or mill, since the mill remained at Kiloran until the very end of the nineteenth century. The ancient stackyard at Torrintuirc is clearly visible from the air, but less obvious on the ground.

There remains the question of finance and organisation. In view of the circumstances, one needs look no further than John McNeill, who purchased Colonsay and Oronsay from his cousin in 1806. An excellent farmer and businessman, he had the vision and the courage to complete the reorganisation that he had been working upon for fifteen years. He will have been aware of Lord Selkirk's energetic and successful initiative and, whether directly or through an agent, will have made use of his expertise to arrange the affair. Knowing that land was secured in P.E.I., he will have taken advice in securing a suitable ship, and will not have hesitated to underwrite the voyage.

Heather McFarlane of Whitehorse, Yukon has been so good as to furnish copies of her original research into the business dealings of the McNeills of Knapdale. The complexity of the arrangements that were made will require careful study, but it may be enough for now to note that on January 30 1806, John McNeill "of Collonsay" borrowed £1000 from a near relation, "Malcom MacNeil at Corran". Perhaps this was the very transaction which funded the "Spencer" expedition?

With the benefit of hindsight, it is clear that the great agricultural reorganisation of 1790-1810 did much harm to those inhabitants who chose to remain in Colonsay. On the other hand, a genuine alternative was now available for those who chose to leave.

There has been a gratifying response to the material published to date and it is hoped to collate the available material in a coherent series which will be published later this year. In the meantime, please do remember our urgent appeal for information on the fate of "The General Washington". It has become clear that it is this ship which is the key to the whole story and yet, frustratingly, we do not have any firm information about the passengers or whatever became of them. One or two people are actively pursuing the subject and it is to be hoped that their efforts will be rewarded. Going upon the evidence to date, the passenger list may well include Currie, Darrach and McPhee, former residents of Ballavetchy and Kiloran.

"Colonsay's Weather, to June 1st 2000

This summary is based upon observations at Homefield, collected for the Meteorological Office


COLONSAY 2000

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

JUN

JUL

AUG

SEP

OCT

NOV

DEC

Highest Max

10.3

11.0

10.5

16.0

22.5

             

Lowest Max

4.8

3.0

6.5

3.8

11.0

             

Lowest Min

-1.0

-0.7

0.5

-0.9

3.8

             

Highest Min

7.5

9.2

8.7

8.0

11.8

             

Average Max

8.4

8.3

9.1

10.4

14.6

             

Average Min

4.2

3.6

5.1

3.6

7.6

             
                         

Total Rain mm

88.2

126.2

56.6

68.6

39.9

             

Last year

n/a

104.5

70.8

85.1

61.2

72.7

70.3

86.5

171.2

74.4

123.3

227.4

[Ave 1951 - 80]

[133]

[81]

[81]

[67]

[61]

[71]

[89]

[90]

[125]

[136]

[140]

[140]

Greatest Fall mm

20.2

13.1

12.1

18.2

7.9

             

No. Days of Rain

21

28

21

11

13

             

No. Days > 5mm

7

11

3

5

2

             
                         

Days of Frost

2

1

0

2

0

             

Groundfrost

3

4

5

5

0

             

Days snow/sleet

0

6

0

0

0

             

Days Hail/ice

3

9

4

2

0

             

Days of Thunder

0

0

1

0

0

             
                         

Days of Gale

7

5

0

2

0

             

Highest Gust knots

n/a

n/a

N/a

N/a

N/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

Ave Highest Gust

n/a

n/a

N/a

N/a

N/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

Ave at 09.00hrs

14

19

13

11

10

             

Ave Direction

210

240

230

120

210

             
                         

Cloud cover 09.00

71%

68%

77%

56%

50%

             

Hours Sunshine

38.7

67.3

90.4

188.1

321.5

             

Daily Average

1.2

2.3

2.9

6.2

10.3

             

[Tiree 30 yr Ave]

[1.3]

[2.4]

[3.7]

[5.8]

[7.0]

[6.6]

[5.1]

[5.2]

[3.9]

[2.5]

[1.5]

[0.9]

Ferry Cancelled

     

1

               


Building a House on Colonsay: Chapter 2

Two weeks on from the first report and progress is being made.

Having driven all the inhabitants of Scalasaig and Glassaird to drink with the rock pecker Jocky has now given me a lovely pile of broken stones that would gladden the heart of any Dartmoor Screw. I also have a very neat set of foundations of which Donald Brown, the bricky, should be justly proud. At the weekend a large Concrete mixer came across from Oban and worked it seemed non-stop to get the footings for these foundations in as well as doing nameless things for the new water works, all in time to leave on Sunday's boat. Since then Donald and his assistant have been working away on the blockwork so that the foundations are now up to their full height and the ground floor layout is obvious to any onlooker.

I also am now thoroughly legal as the Building Warrant has been issued by the Argyll and Bute Council. As a result the building control inspector looked over the foundations on Wednesday on one of his day trips to Colonsay and appears to be happy with what he saw.

We think we now have all the solutions to the problems with septic tanks and soak-aways . At least these problems have been dealt with before they became critical so we may avoid nasty delays later.

So the next stage is to in-fill the foundations and pour the concrete for the ground floor. Then we will be ready for the kit when it arrives at the end of the month.

So to sum up progress at present, we are still on schedule, but I must remember that there is many a slip etc.

Kilchattan Crofts




A map of Kilchattan is reproduced here, together with a key which shows the tenancies at the turn of the last century. The date is not certain, but the list includes the name of "present" and "former" occupants.

The list has been slightly expanded here, to include details of houses and ruins that survive, together with name of the current crofters. Additional material or information will be very welcome.

A: (Contains "School Cottage", "Taigh an Uruisg", boundary at Galloway Dyke)
c. 1900: Neil McPhee
Then became: Duncan McDougall
2000: Duncan MacDougall

B: (old cottage now incorporated in barn)
c. 1900: Mrs Mary McKinnon
Then became: Duncan McKinnon
2000: Duncan MacDougall

C: (ruins of an old cottage incorporated in a barn; also of Maoil Dubh (Jasper's house))
c. 1900: Jasper Brown
Then became: Donald Brown
2000: Charles MacKinnon and May (Brown)

D: (old cottage part of Cnoc na Tarunn cottage)
c. 1900: James McFadyen
Then became: Malcolm McConnell
2000: Archie McConnell

E: (cottage now called "Alister Annie's")
c. 1900: James Campbell
Then became: Mrs Annie McNeill ("Mrs. "M" McNeill"??)
???: Alister "Annie" McNeill
1970's: Dugald MacKinnon
1980's: Iain MacKinnon
1990's onwards: Bill Lawson and Annie (MacKinnon)

F: (cottage survives beside modern house)
c. 1900: John Black
Then became: Dugald McGilvray
2000: Dugald McGilvray

G: (cottage survives, "Gortin")
c. 1900: Hector Martin
Then became: Hugh Martin
1980's: Neil Martin
1990's: Hugh Brown
2000: Mrs. Rhona Grant (McNeill)

H: (cottage ruins survive behind Cnoc nan Fad)
c. 1900: Murdoch Buie
Then became: ???
1980's: Neil Martin
1990's: Hugh Brown
2000: Mrs. Rhona Grant (McNeill)

I: (Cottage survives, "Templefield)
c. 1900: Archibald Campbell
Then became: Neil Campbell
1980's Neil Martin
1990's: Hugh Brown
2000: Mrs. Rhona Grant (McNeill)

J: (Original house survives as steading, new house 1898 "Homefield")
c. 1900: Neil Campbell
Remained Neil Campbell until … ?
1980's Neil Martin
1990's: Hugh Brown
2000: Mrs. Rhona Grant (McNeill)

K: (Original house survives as Cnoc nam Ban; new house "Bailie Iochdrach")
c. 1900: Donald McNeill
Then became: Gilbert McNeill
From …? through 2000 : Donald "Gibbie" McNeill

L: (Original house survives as ruin; new house as "Drumclach".
c. 1900: Angus McNeill
Then became: John McNeill
1970's: Donald "Garvard" McNeill
1980's through 2000: D.M. McNeill

M: (Original cottage survives in rebuilt steadings; new house is "Seaview")
c. 1900: Mrs. Hector McNeill
Then became: Flora McNeill
1970's: Dugald MacKinnon
1980's: Iain MacKinnon
1990's onwards: Bill Lawson and Annie (MacKinnon)

N & O: Grazing common to crofts D, E, F, L, and M
By 2000, the western part of this grazing had been largely apportioned to D.M.McNeill

P: Grazing common to crofts A, B, C, G, H, I, J and K
By 2000, this grazing had all been apportioned and was identified with Donald McNeill, Rhona Grant, Charles MacKinnon and Duncan MacDougall (going eastwards from Port Mor).


Who was where?

The above section section contains a brief guide to Kilchattan crofters through the twentieth century, and it is hoped to extend this idea to encompass all dwellings. John Clark has kindly contributed information about some of the farms and it is hoped that coverage of the rest of the farms and the Uragaig crofts may be completed later this month. (Corrections and additions already received from John Clark and ena Williams have not yet been incorporated above). If we information on the farms and crofts, there are plenty of other houses to be considered - if any reader would care to list what they know about the history of their own (or any) house, it would be very helpful. All that is needed is a list of the current and previous occupants, and a note of any salient dates or facts. However little you know, it will still be helpful. Meanwhile, Georgina is hoping to create a digital photographic archive, to record every building in Colonsay and Oronsay as it stood in the year 2000. Please contact the editor if you can help with any of this work.>

Website to explore:

Try this for size! Part of a project by a great grandson of John Bell and Margaret McCalder, Colonsay emigrants to Elderslie; it shows what is possible, although the database here in Colonsay is only in its infancy. www.ogs.on.ogspi/welcome.htm will get you started, but try www.ogs.on.ca/ogspi/187/hg1876b.htm#bell-ireland to climb John Allan's tree. He suggests that you try 1881 census letter Q to study the linking structure and logic: www.ogs.on.ca/ogspi/8/hc188q.htm

Regulars

Readers Write

As you will have gathered, we heard from John Allan, who is leading a major project to index Ontario pioneer families for the Ontario Genealogical Society. He remarks that "It is organized so every marriage and every census family has a unique address in hyperspace and we can link smoothly generation to generation as well as decade to decade." The link is www.ogs.on.ogspi/welcome.htm and just had to be our suggested link of this issue. John's great grandparents were John Bell 1810-1895 and his wife Margaret McCalder 1810-1888, both natives of Colonsay. In addition, we hear that Mary Snyder and husband Gary plan an extended visit to Colonsay in due course - Mary is a descendant of Donald Blue, born 1852 at Balerominmor, son of Hugh Blue and Sarah Munn. We look forward to their visit. There was plenty more correspondence, mostly on genealogy, and I will try to maintain a better record for future issues. Readers are invited to submit suggestions and material for publication. Contact
the Editor - byrne@colonsay.org.uk

Editorial Policy

Corncrake is published to keep all our friends in touch with life on the island. Contributions are invited and welcomed.
Fortnightly editions will carry details of coming events, special offers etc. Please send letters and proposals for specific articles to
the Editor
Brief genealogical and related queries are also welcome from Colbhasachs overseas, as are obituaries and family traditions relating to Colonsay emigrants.
This publication will hopefully develop to reflect the interests of the readership so please feel free to make your contribution. The magazine section needs articles on flora, fauna, geology, fishing, crofting etc.