EDITORIAL CHANGE

This is the final issue of "The Corncrake" under the original editor and Kevin Byrne would like to thank all readers and contributors for their help and support over the years. We have about 1,600 readers per issue and it is clear from conversation and private correspondence that very little goes un-noticed in these columns. Particular thanks are due to those of our readers who have sent private messages of encouragement and appreciation, some of which have come from singularly august individuals.

"The Corncrake" has achieved some quite remarkable feats, and will hopefully continue to do so. Meanwhile the outgoing editor will address some unfinished business including handling more than 2,000 unread emails; the finishing touches to a new Colonsay book, due for submission to the publishers by 24 October; progressing the 2006 commemorative "Spencer" voyage to Prince Edward Island; working on the Colonsay Biographical Dictionary; and developing the new Family History section of the shortly-to-be-revamped website. Two much larger projects have also been on hold - some method of indexing the extraordinarily extended and complex archive material which has been gathered, and progress on a study of "The McNeill Dynasty in Colonsay 1680 - 1904".

It will be remembered that a modest and unobtrusive commemorative plaque for all victims of the Arandorra Star is planned at Leum a Bhriair. When details are finalised the courtesy of these columns will be sought to announce them and to request help with the cost of same.

Another important project has not been forgotten - the creation of a digital photographic archive. Technically and financially this is well within our local capabilities; once the framework is in place, it becomes a very simple matter to input the raw material. All of us will be aware of heaps of photographs which we treasure, but which will be utterly valueless unless they are properly indexed and captioned. If anybody is interested in such work, please contact Kevin Byrne.


WAR MEMORIAL COMMEMORATION

On Tuesday 20th July, in atrocious weather conditions, a very large gathering participated in a simple service to mark the 80th anniversary of the original dedication.

Piper David Johnston opened the proceedings, whereupon Angus MacPhee, Chairman of the Community Council, welcomed all present. Alan Davis, author of a book of commemoration, stepped forward to thank all islanders and officials who had assisted him in his researches. Prof. Parrot (Baptist Union) led the service and gave a brief but inspiring peroration based upon Joshua. Katherine Rennie (Church of Scotland) led the closing prayers, and Seamus McNeill led the singing of "For Those in Peril" and the 23rd Psalm. Our oldest inhabitant, Dugie MacGilvary, then stepped forward to place a beautiful lily-wreath, generously provided by Mr & Mrs David Johnston. Davie Sutherland, British Legion fund-raiser in Colonsay, recited the roll of honour and reminded us that "They Shall not Grow Old". The proceedings were then brought to a fitting close when the piper played "The Flowers o' The Forest".



Mr. Dugie MacGilvary laid the wreath

"COLONSAY'S FALLEN"

Alan Davis has written a carefully researched and most informative book to commemorate all those who are recorded on the Colonsay war-memorial, or whose remains came ashore and are buried here. This book has now been launched and the original or subscriber's edition has already sold out.

A paperback edition has also been produced, and is now on sale at £10 per copy. Please note that this is also in the form of a limited edition - if you are anxious to obtain a copy, please contact byrne@colonsay.org.uk or order through www.houseoflochar.com The book has been produced for the benefit of future generations and copies will be lodged in all the copyright libraries. The author has pledged all royalties for the Poppy Appeal.

An independent review of "Colonsay's Fallen" is not yet to hand, but could be submitted to The Corncrake for consideration by the new editor.



Signing the Subscribers' Edition

SCHOONER VISIT

A fine three-masted schooner arrived at Colonsay last week, the "Maja" from Denmark. The owner and skipper is Joacim Bollehuus and he kindly gave a tour of this very fine ship, built in 1916 and maintained to a very high standard. The accommodation comprises forward quarters for the permanent crew plus a very large saloon cabin with 24 bunks for the passengers. All bunks are recessed individually, the saloon has good ventilation and light and has two well-appointed shower-rooms.

The galley is commodious and well-equipped, and the dining saloon seats about 20 people at a sitting. One noticed that the schooner rig permits all work to be done from the security of the deck, with little need for anyone to go aloft. There is a powerful engine, good winch and all modern navigational aids, although the helmsman stands out on deck in the traditional manner.

It is hoped that we may at last have found the vessel we need for the 2006 voyage from Colonsay to Prince Edward Island. Over the next few weeks, we will see if it is possible to make a firm arrangement - if so, The Corncrake will carry details and a dedicated page will be created elsewhere on the website. Participation will be open to people living in Colonsay and to descendants of those who made the original crossing on the "Spencer" in 1806; possibly we can make two trips, since PEI to Colonsay might be equally attractive.

If we go ahead, we will establish a list of intending passengers and will open an escrow account with a bank. Those intending to travel will make regular payments into the account, so as to ease the pain and so as to give a guarantee to the skipper and all fellow-travellers. In addition, some places will be held back so that we can seek to interest a television company in the potential of the adventure. Once the project is under way, we may seek charitable status and undertake various fund-raising ventures so as to minimise the cost. It is early days yet, but good rapport was established with Skipper Bollehuus and we hope to make progress. There is a website in Danish at www.skonnerten-maja.dk




CENTENARY EVENT

On August 25th it will be 100 years since ownership of Colonsay passed to the Howard family from their second (?) cousins, the McNeills. Curiously enough, it now emerges that the McNeills were also related to their predecessors, the MacDonalds, so there might be something like another millennium celebration on the horizon.

Meantime, one would not wish this important family milestone to pass unremarked so Colonsay Community Council has invited Alex and his family to participate in a traditional sailing race. Colonsay Yacht Club will be entering "Sula" to represent CCC and there is talk of secret modifications to her keel; the crew have been selected and are training vigourously. Alex has yet to nominate his craft, but details of the handicapping will then be determined.

Weather permitting, the event is planned for 2pm on Saturday 21st August, over the usual triangular course. Other craft will be most welcome to participate, but crews must attend a pre-race briefing and proper buoyancy aids must be worn for the race and any associated activity. Everything and everyone is participating, watching or passing-by at their own exclusive risk.

For details, look for notices at the pier etc. Some help will be needed in preparations and Kevin Byrne will be glad to hear from volunteers.


FIG LEAVES LEFT AT QUARRY

In a gesture which appeals to many residents, the council have sited a bottle bank and paper recycling bin in Colonsay, at the quarry. There is no denying that this is good practice, and it is to be hoped that everyone takes full advantage of this extremely expensive facility. If each container costs £2,000 and has a "life" of ten years and an assumed uplift once per year, the capital cost is £200 per load; to this must be added £294.20 freight charge and (say) £100 p.a. to maintain the immediate environs of each bin. At £600 per tonne, Colonsay broken glass will be a luxury item. It is a misfortune that the use of the facility will tend to act against the justification for the weekly visit of the bin lorry, which we are unable to fill and for which the ferry ticket costs £384.72 (Maybe this is why the Hall Committee stuck with the normal bin-lorry service after the ceilidh on Saturday night).

Now that we have made a start on the inert and inoffensive end of the problem, better things may follow. At present, despite years of pleading, there is NO facility for the disposal and re-cycling of used oil in Colonsay. A moment's calculation suggests that about 500 gallons of oil per year is being dumped hither-and-yon about the island. Cooking oil from the school, the pantry and the hotel, lubrication oil from diggers, tractors, cars, mowers, boats and generators is all being smeared around in our fragile environment. Unlike paper and glass, it is neither inert nor inoffensive, and it also differs in being a valuable and easily-recycled resource. A very neat unit has been in use at Port Askaig for years and might serve as a model. Perhaps the Community Council could seek some action in the matter.


NOOKS & CRANNIES: Uamh Ur - "The New Cave"

This cave was systematically explored by Symington Grieve between 1879 and 1881, and he was intrigued to discover bones of red deer as well of those of "unclean animals" such as horse and pig, which he attributed to pre-Christian occupation. The cave runs about 80ft into the cliff at Kiloran, and has a substantial cross-arm, running 40ft to the left and about 120 ft to the right. There is a "well" at the end of the shorter transept, there is a whetsone for sharpening swords at the junction, and there are stalactites in the right hand chamber (very delicate, not to be touched).

The cave is treacherous of access, extremely dark and probably best ignored. But then again … if you do go, be sure to bring two good torches and to tell somebody where you have gone. Go past Kiloran Bay towards Uragaig until you reach the fine stand of wheely-bins on your right; there is a low cliff on your right, covered in honeysuckle. Follow the line of the curving cliff towards the north, following it in a gentle curve as it descends towards the sea. In about 50 metres you will find yourself in a circular hollow - this is a mistake, you have entered a cul-de-sac so go back and continue to follow the original curve for another 50 metres. At this point you will be confronted by a giant bramble entanglement … towards the left you will find it possible to creep into it, crossing moss-covered treacherous and unstable ankle-crushing rocks. After you have crawled and slithered about 10 metres you will find yourself at the entrance to the cave, small and uninviting. Best to send a small boy ahead at this point, for fear of otters etc., but once you are safely inside it opens up into a very wide and comfortable, sweet-smelling sort of a place.


COLONSAY DIARY

The ceilidh season is in full swing, and the cricket match against the mainlanders was much enjoyed despite driving rain and winds gusting up to Force 7; work has started on nought-point-five Glassard; Andrew MacGregor has gone (by plane rather than by "Heidi") to check out the new Trans-Australia railway line; population is up by two, now the the Butchers have moved in; Rena is back home after a few weeks away at Oban; very few car crashes this week, but we did hear that a notorious "boy racer" got hold of a roller and coped it at Maggie Thomson's; a visitor's car was badly damaged by a hit-and-run driver at the hotel carpark; Alex has a new engine in his plane; the island population was boosted by a record 468 overnight visitors on Monday, the highest total population since 1861; and the aliens are back, this time leaving a neat crop-mark impression of their mystery craft:




WHAT'S ON IN COLONSAY

Please note that there is also a Notice Board on the Homepage; anybody wishing to publicise any event or attraction is invited to send details to the Editor.

Mondays, 6 - 7pm in Hall - YOGA @ £2.00 per session. Call Jo 0789 907 0153 for details

Thursdays, 6.45 - 8pm, Egyptian Dance Class. Contact Miki 200358

August 3rd - Pedie and Jen in concert
August 7th - The Visitors' Ceilidh, in aid of Hall funds
August 10th - Pedie and Jen in concert
August 12th - Development ompany's Ceilidh
August 17th - Pedie and Jen in concert
August 21st - Golf Club Ceilidh
August 24th - Pedie and Jen in concert
August 31st - Pedie and Jen in concert

Badminton on every Tuesday and Thursday

Football on Wednesdays

Colonsay House & Gardens, open each Wednesday 12 - 5pm. Light lunches and Afternoon Teas. Also Fridays, 3 - 5pm Afternoon Teas

Lobster and Crab: Freshly caught, telephone Bill Lawson 01951 200315

Village Hall for rent: Ceilidhean, dances etc. £50; private parties £75; weddings £100

The Pantry Restaurant:
Sunday 2.30 - 8pm
Monday - Friday 9am - 8pm
Saturday 9am - 6pm

The Village Stores
Monday - Friday 9am - 1pm; 2pm - 5.30pm
Saturday 9am - 1pm

CHURCH SERVICES: Weekly Services are held each Sunday at 11.30 a.m. The Church of Scotland and the Baptist Church work closely together and frequently hold joint services - please see notice at Shop for details of venue. All are welcome and our visitors are cordially invited to join the island congregation. Immediate schedule is:
8th August - Church of Scotland
15th August - Baptist Church
22nd Augusr - Church of Scotland
29th August - Baptist Church
5th September - Church of Scotland
12th September - Baptist Church
19th September - Church of Scotland
26th September - Baptist Church

BOAT TRIPS: Daily boat trips operate throughout the season; details are elsewhere on this site, also comprehensive brochures are available at Hotel, Shop, Pantry, Bookshop etc.
Note: On most Saturdays, an all-day guided trip to the top of the Paps of Jura (2,570ft)
IONA ... All day trip to Iona, August 7, August 21
Colonsay Boat Hire

Clan Macfie will be holding its 15th International Gathering and 9th Clan Parliament in Inverness from 6th to 11th September 2005. This will be followed immediately by a Clan visit to the historic homeland the Islands of Colonsay and Oronsay.
Dates for the Colonsay visit are (subject to CalMac timetables in 2005) arrive on Sunday 11th September, depart on Wednesday 14th September or later should members so wish.
All Clan members have been notified that they are individually responsible for arranging their own accommodation reservations and payments.
Further details from: Clan Macfie Secretariat Email: macfie@austarnet.com.au
Clan Macfie Home Page address: http://home.austarnet.com.au/macfie/macfie.htm



TOPICAL LETTERS

For convenience of readers, letters now appear in two sections. Anything to do with current events appears here, and letters to do with the Magazine section or historical research etc. will appear at the end of the Magazine section.



Hello Kevin,
My computer tells me Corncrake No. 100 is due to appear on the 1st August and you have already told us you will be handing it over to a new editor when No. 100 is posted up.
While Helen and I have enjoyed Corncrake for so many years and are sorry to see you hand over the reins, we do understand. We both thank you for the hours of enjoyable readinhg you have provided, and for being our contact with those islands that mean so much to us.
Too, as Commander of Clan Macfie, I thank you sincerely on behalf of all Clan Macfie readers for the interesting and informative content that has kept the worldwide membership of the Clan in touch with "home".
We all wish you the very best for the future and look forward to seeing you and Christa next year.
Sandy McPhie
Commander of Clan Macfie
Clan Macfie Secretariat
macfie@austarnet.com.au
Clan Macfie Homepage
http://home.austarnet.com.au/macfie/macfie.htm



The Magazine Section


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NEW BOOK "DOWN PETTICOAT LANE" NOW OFF THE PRESS

Mary MacKay has just published her sixth book in a series about the lives of early Colonsay settlers in the Paisley/ Elderslie/Arran/ Saugeen area of Bruce County, Ontario. The proceeds from the sale of these books has gone to the restoration of Rusk's Cemetery where many of the Colonsay immigrants are buried. The restoration will be completed June 2004.

"Down Petticoat Lane" is the story of Kate McEachern Darroch and her neighbours, the Smiths, McNeills, McArthurs ,McLeans, McDonalds and Galbraiths who were pioneer settlers in the area.

Kate's father, Archie McEachern left Colonsay when he was young and went to Prince Edward Island. When Kate was only three, Archie and his family came to Ontario to join his Mother , brothers and sisters who had emigrated directly from Colonsay. Kate's husband, Charles Darroch, also went to Prince Edward Island before joining other Colonsay families in this part of Ontario.

From the day of her marriage in 1872, Kate Darroch's life was full of surprises and tragedies, clouded by an extremely reclusive husband and enriched by the neighbours who helped her. Her four children gave her a purpose in life and her friends gave her the will to live. It will bring a tear to your eye and a smile to your lips. The experiences of the women in this small pioneer settlement will keep you spell bound.

"Down Petticoat Lane" is a narrative and not intended to be a genealogy, however readers with an interest in any family chronicled in the book could contact the author at jms.mackay@bmts.com

Other books in this series still available are :
Book III "Tatters In My Life" tells the very unusual story of Kirsty McCalder who left behind her husband and small daughter in Mariposa Township and came to Concession 1 Arran Township with her brother Donald Galbraith. The fact that she was pregnant when she came and that her husband signed an agreement and sent her money every year until 1894 adds to the puzzle. You must read the book to find the answer.
Book IV "I Think We'll Go Too" is the story of Flora McNeill, her children and grandchildren and the many lives she touched as a pioneer in Prince Edward Island and Elderslie Township. Widowed eight years after settling on Concession 13, Elderslie Township, her indomitable spirit sustained her through difficult times for ninety-three years. Of her sixty-one grandchildren, only six remained on Ontario and only one of them has descendants living in Elderslie today.
Book V "The Scooptown Diary". The diary of Hugh Blue opens the window and allows the reader to peek into the lives of the families of Hugh and Angus Blue and their four sisters who came with their spouses and divided a one hundred acre farm into five small units and lived there the rest of their days, clearing the land and raising their families.
Book VI "Down Petticoat Lane" The books are available from the author at 519-353 5544 for $12 each plus $2 postage or $40 for the set. Mail requests may be sent to
Mary MacKay
Box 16,
Paisley ON
N0G2N0

Please note: Copies are also available at Colonsay bookshop.

"THE GOVERNOR" - Part 2

McNEILL "The Governor"

Readers will recall the following message from sandcr@aon.at :

Dear Colonsay Genealogist,
Could you please give me details about Laird Archibald McNeill, who was Laird of Colonsay from 1773-1805.

My mother is a McNeill and lives in Texas. There is extensive genealogical info on her family from the mid-1700's when they came to North Carolina (and up the Cape Fear River to Cumberland County (now Fayetteville). According to a book published in 1934 by Rev. Hannibal McNeill, D.D. in Prattvile, Alabama, "among those who settled near Fayetteville was Laird Archibald, our progenitor." He settled at the 'Bluff' and was buried at the 'Bluff Church'.

In 1754 'our' Archibald McNeill bought lands on Rockfish Creek some miles south of Cross Creek (Fayetteville). By 1803 the estate had two mills, 1500 acres, etc. It was believed that 'our' Laird Archibald had come from Ardlussa, Jura. His and other McNeill families in the 'Bluff' area came from Colonsay, Jura, & Gigha islands and were intermarried.

It occured to me that it is theoretically possible that our 'Laird Archibald McNeill' and the 'Laird Archibald McNeill, 4th of Colonsay' are one and the same. That in the course of his military career (his uncle & cousin took care of Colonsay when he was away), he went to the Carolina's in the mid-1700's, married and had children. (his marriage to Georgina was later:)

Carolyn Sandner
Vienna, Austria

By happy circumstance Mr. Drummond, a reader in New Zealand, recently forwarded a copy of a McNeill family tree and careful study has shown it to be very reliable. There are aspects of the MacDougall line which are contradicted in "Highland Postbag" by Jean MacDougall but it is basically very clear and helpful. Amongst other things, it has helped to authenticate Donna McDonald's reference to the relationship between Sir John Carstairs McNeill and Donald Smith, 1st Baron Strathcona (possibly as close as second cousins).

In order to test the various connections, the entire tree was entered into a computer programme - but when the process was complete, there was somebody left over. The document included the following reference: "Extract of marriage contracts etc. from Sheriff Court books of Inverary (sic). … 1746 Marriage contract at Colonsay between Archibald McNeill and Elizabeth McNeill daughter to the late Neil McNeill of Arichonan. Witnesses:- Angus and Donald McNeill brothers German".

This is an unambiguous reference to an otherwise unknown Archibald, not recorded in any of the three family trees currently to hand. He appears to be the fourth son of Malcolm McNeill and Barbara Campbell and to have married his second cousin, once removed. There is every reason to think that he can be associated with Ardlussa, that Estate having been purchased some years earlier and having required intervention by a firm hand. Elizabeth is not a common name in the Colonsay McNeills, so it would be interesting to know if it occurs in Carolyn Sandner's line.

It seems likely that Archibald married in 1746 and then emigrated to the Carolinas, presumably to join his relatives in the Cape Fear region, pioneers of the "Thistle". We know that other Colonsay folk made the journey at about that time. He would thus have been established before the War of Independence (1776-83), presumably supported it and was subsequently able to encourage his name-sake uncle to make the same journey at the close of the century. He was, of course, a kinsman of Flora MacDonald but she and her husband supported the Loyalist cause and eventually returned to Scotland.

There are a few questions still unanswered. Was Neill McNeill of Arichonan really "late" in 1746, or is that a note added when the deed was being filed? Why has Archibald slipped from the family tree? It seems unlikely that he was a black sheep, because some memory of his career seems to be contained in the confused story that he was "governor" of North Carolina. One assumes that this was really some sort of magisterial post - barely one hundred years earlier, as "governor" of Colonsay, Coll MacDonald had had to execute half a dozen miscreants, so such titles had real meaning.

Heather McFarlane is an expert on Arichonan and may be able to help us out. Is there any reader in a position to check the Inveraray marriage contract?

P.S. There is another Archibald to add to the confusion. The 1728 marriage contract (at "Killoran Colonsay") between Neil Campbell of Achinard and Miss Isobel McNeill eldest daughter of Malcolm McNeill of Colonsay was witnessed by Archibald McNeill "brother to the said Malcolm" and Daniel (Donald) and Angus McNeill, "sons to the said Malcolm". This is a reference to Archibald of Arichonan, one of Malcolm's nine siblings. Arichonan was a family property of long-standing, and Donald of Crear (who acquired Colonsay) was son of Neil Oig McNeill of Arichonan.

Regulars

Readers Write



From Thomas MacFee

Kevin
I have waited to see if anything at all would be said about the chief's family and nothing was said much by postings in the Corncrake (I was thinking of some of the entries in search for the chief!).

I posted the story in Macphee relation ships (issue 63 of the corncrake) and received both good and bad emails afterwards. Great stuff I might add.

Here are a few things my father told me about the family:

1. The Chief on Colonsay OR the Ancestor of him was asked by the Catholic church to build a chapel for saint "BRIGID" and after many requests a small really small chapel was built (on the south west side of Colonsay I think?). It did not impress the church and it was a sore spot with them. He said this was before "Iona" which may have happened because the family did not build a grand place for the church and he said that was what really led to the move to Iona. He said someone else built the Oronsay church he thought, or they paid for it? He added the chapel was in the place the family had buried their people before Oronsay.

[Editor's note: "Sguid Bride" or Brigit's Shelter is close to a reputedly very ancient burial site, at the heart of the island. Brigit was an important pre-christian cult figure and was enthusiastically adopted by the early missionaries. By the time of the MacPhees, Christianity was well-established in Colonsay but memories of the cult of Brigit were recorded here until within living memory and remain widespread in Ireland. One must remember that such families as MacPhee, Shaw and Darroch carry more than a hint of pre-Christian tradition within their very names. The above story is new to me but one can sense the elements of its origin.]

2. He said the family Safe was over the side of a cliff on the isle, a place where the grass-like area went up and over the edge and they used a really long rope to get to it. A stake was placed in the ground and the rope tied off to it. The lucky young man would be lowered over the side and onto the ledge of the small cave. He said he thought it was something they just reached into, to get the coin or whatever, and that was where things were put for safe-keeping. Once he said the rope fell or broke and they had to go to Jura or Islay for help to get who ever off the ledge and to find another rope long enough... I think this is also on the west side of the island.

[Editor: Sadly, if anybody kept valuables in such a place their activities would be noticed and quickly attract burglars. But it is, of course, a good description of the harvesting of gull's eggs and there are many stories involving the broken rope etc. throughout the isles. And, yes indeed, any such activity would be on the west of Colonsay.]

3. Also he said when Donald McDuffie, son of the late Chief Malcolm, was taken to Ireland for safe-keeping he did stay at a Catholic Church to become a Priest! But left after a year or so? So they would hopefully have a record of this (ball-park 1638 might be the year). This is why he said we went to Ireland and than came back.

[It would be entirely likely that a McDuffie refugee would seek sanctuary from the church. In the instructions given by the Papal Nuncio to Franciscan Missionaries to Scotland, McDuffie is specifically menytioned: "In insula Colsna dominus illius est catholicus, eius nomen Col Makdonel; hic eques potest instruere et dirigere catholiocus missionarios per omnes illas insulas. Quare ab isto atque a gubernatore consilium capiant." As a scion of an important family, McDuffie would have been made very welcome but there were no seminary facilities available at the time and he presumably would have left after a year because of a faith in such things or merely because the heat had died down.]

It's because of some of the things you have posted on the Corncrake as of late that I mention these things to you. The Staff mentioned in one issue (of prediction of the end of the McDuffie's race) really caught my attention. My father knew the names of most of the Isles where the family lived off and on.

Donald born 1782 was born At KILMALIE near fort William and his son Angus was born 1811 on Jura. His son Donald was born on Colonsay 1840 (the census is 1841). They left Colonsay 1850 and went to Ontario, Canada.

Well, thanks and happy hunting I hope there is an old Sword or a Tooth or something still there. Hope you folks can find the ledge with the small cave?
John Thomas MCPHEE

DESCENT of Donald MCFEE 60 B: 1782 m. Catherine MCFEE 55 nee Catherine McColl
Angus MCFEE 25 B: 1811 m. Jane MCFEE 25 nee Jane Bue
Donald MCFEE 01 B: 1840 on the 1841 census.

Three more brothers followed Malcolm, Duncan B:1843 Archibald B: 1848


Editorial Policy

Corncrake is published to keep all our friends in touch with life on the island. Contributions are invited and welcomed.
Fortnightly editions will carry details of coming events, special offers etc. Please send letters and proposals for specific articles to
the Editor
Brief genealogical and related queries are also welcome from Colbhasachs overseas, as are obituaries and family traditions relating to Colonsay emigrants.
This publication will hopefully develop to reflect the interests of the readership so please feel free to make your contribution. The magazine section needs articles on flora, fauna, geology, fishing, crofting etc.