Within the last few days the government has issued a sensible set of guidelines. It does seem extraordinary that it has taken five weeks to produce something so insubstantial (cf. (say) the Ten Commandments), but no doubt it was difficult to find a minute between all the posturing and photo-opportunities. Anyway, at long last we have a viable code:

At long last the first tranche of funding for the EU Rural Aid Project in Colonsay has been approved, enabling a comprehensive upgrading of the island road system. The nineteenth century single-track roads were originally designed for horsedrawn traffic and only a tiny minority of drivers have felt confident at the permitted 60 mph cruising speed. Under the newly-approved scheme, all the island roads are to become dual-track, avoiding time-consuming delays in the countless passing places. Welcoming the news, Dr. Currie stressed the benefit for members of the emergency services in their desperate rush to be present at accident sites - "from now on, they can be first on the scene!"

Further support came from Mr. Grant, special constable. He pointed out that, although a maximum speed of 60 mph has been permitted for years, it was difficult for learners to become properly prepared for mainland driving without oncoming traffic "which is essential to provide the authentic 120mph closing-speed experience". In his private capacity, he accepted that some of the sheep might find it hard to adjust to the higher speeds, but felt that the older and slower ones could be weeded out "through natural selection".

A highlight of the upgraded network will be the construction of the long-awaited Kiloran By-Pass, which is clearly visible in our computer-enhanced view of the completed improvements.

The new by-pass, which will reduce traffic congestion and associated atmospheric pollution, runs from the Deabhaidh to Torr-an-tuirc and cuts the distance between Scalasaig and parts of Kilchattan by more than a mile. "This is a major environmental improvement, enabling sustained economic advantages and fully justified by a quantifiable payback time", enthused Cllr. Currie on behalf of the Council. "If even 5.3 persons make an average of 1.8 journeys per day, there is an immediate saving of 7,000 miles per year and a reduction of 3,500 traffic movements through Kiloran." The council spokesman hinted at even greater savings if only Mrs. McNeill, the sole occupant of Torr-an-tuirc, could be persuaded to buy a car and drive about a bit.

There are significant indirect benefits in the scheme, as highlighted by hard-pressed local farmer Mr. A. Howard; if suitable funding becomes available, he hopes to be able to resume the redundant section of road between the Deabhaidh and the Old Hall and restore it to agricultural use. There will be an ongoing saving through reduced fence maintenance, to say nothing of greater productivity from the increased acreage.

Now that the funding is in place, work is to commence almost immediately. Island road supremo Mr. A. MacConnell, when pressed for a start day, confirmed that he would be moving on to the new project just as soon as the re-surfacing work at Squint Street has been completed. In an unprecedented gesture of private-public partnership, Uragaig resident Mr. J. Bridges has offered to provide safety markings for the new road as a gift from his own resources, promising new-style cats-eyes which boast the highest levels of verisimilitude. Only one interest-group has expressed doubts - in a statement on behalf of Hell's Angels (Glassard Chapter), a biker identified as "Mary Ann" was fearful that convoys could intimidate other traffic. Mr. Hughie McNeill was unavailable for comment.

Argyll and Bute Trust are again sponsoring beach and black-spot clean-ups in the area and the Village Hall Committee is co-ordinating again for Colonsay. Everyone is urged to get involved - this is a very special year, because the coup is about to be closed and rubbish will not fall out of the new "Vulture" bin lorry on its rounds. If we clean-up the island now, it will stay cleaned-up.

Last year people seemed to prefer to work on their own or in a family group to clear a specific beach or stretch of path and this worked well. Hall funds benefited by £200 and the island started the season looking much improved. The organisers would like to concentrate the effort during the weekend and week before Easter and Charlie has offered to pick up bags of rubbish and take them to the dump from pre-arranged pick up points. We are also expecting to have refuse bags sent down by Argyll and Bute Council.

A big start to this project has already been made around the dump, but there is still plenty of rubbish about!

Please contact Georgina on 01951 200375 to find out more, to get refuse bags and to tell her where you are collecting.

Kevin Byrne has now retired as coalman and the service will be operated in future by the Community Company; full details of the new arrangements will be posted up in the shop. As far as is known, new supplies will be arriving within a matter of days. Kevin would like to thank all customers for their support over the years, and hopes that he can look forward to their continuing custom in respect of Calor Gas.

The weather is recent months and years has been outstandingly good, but March seems to have beaten all records. Rain is now almost unheard of - the picture shows muirburn, to improve grazing and to provide enhanced conditions for breeding birds (in this case, lapwings). With little rainfall and long hours of daily sunshine, it has been possible to burn quite a lot of undergrowth and rank heather.

For islanders and visitors, the wamth and sunlight have been a special bonus. There are chough diving and wheeling outside the window at this minute, everything is full of life. Daffodil, coltsfoot, blackthorn, celendine, gorse - the place is a blaze of colour. Here are two pictures taken on 31 March:

Coltsfoot at Walter and Ena's croft, Craiggans


View from the new sundeck at Cill a' Rubha

There is plenty going on, but there has not been time to make a proper list as yet. Luckily we have been notified of something which is far too good to be missed:

Mrs. Robertson suffered a fall and was sent to the Royal Infirmary, should be home again next week; Barbara Kerr (who farmed Balerominmor in the 1940s and 50s with her late husband, Ronnie) has been holidaying at the Hotel with her grand-daughter; the video-link in the Surgery has had its first patient for remote examination; the roads into Baleromindubh and Balerominmor have been improved; mainland fencers are making great progress on what are thought to be areas intended for native woodland regeneration; the number of alcohol licences in Colonsay has climbed again - The Pantry becomes the third, having been granted a Refreshment Licence this week; House of Lochar was represented at London International Book Fair; work has been completed on the upgrade at Sgreadan

There are many sights to be seen in early spring skies. The sun is still setting fairly early and rising late so there are plenty of hours of darkness to explore the heavens. Beginning to swing low in the northwest are Aurigia and Perseus. Aurigia's principle star is Capella, one of the brightest stars in the sky, which has a lovely yellow hue. Compare this colour to nearby Aldebaran in Taurus, and Betelgeuse in Orion, which have a strong red-t-orange cast to them.

The Plough (Ursus Major) sits high overhead in April. Face south and look up at the Plough to see it "the right way up", then move your glance halfway down to the horizon, and you will come across a bright star, Regulus, marking the base of what looks like a back-to-front Question Mark, outlined by a group of stars. This is Leo.

Leo dominates the southern region of the sky during the evenings of April. In the southwest, the two bright stars of Castor and Pollux that mark the heads of Gemini (The Twins), will be easy to spot. Pollux is the lower and brighter of the two, and a pair of binoculars can show the slight colour difference between these two bright stars. Pollux is an orange giant star, while his brother is a hotter, brilliant blue-white colour.

For those who would like to catch sight of the planets, Venus is now a morning star, low in the dawn sky. Mars will rise around midnight. There will be a Full Moon on April 8th. Happy star-gazing folks - Irene Campbell.

According to tradition, a catholic priest called Fr. John Mitchell lived in Colonsay during "the Penal Times"; extensive attempts have failed to identify him and one can only imagine from his name and from historical evidence that, if he ever existed, he was one of the many Irish priests who accompanied Antrim's army into Scotland, under the leadership of Colonsay's Alasdair MacCholla Ciotach. If so, one might imagine that his ministry in Colonsay would have flourished in the mid 1640s.

The story has it that the priest had to shelter from religious oppression on the island in Loch a' Sgoltaire, which is named after him to this day (Eilean Dubh Iain Mhitchel). Whether or not it was a refuge is uncertain, but there is no doubt that a consecrated altar stone can be seen in the island. It was repositioned by the McNeill lairds as something on which to wipe their feet, and is still in that position.

Fr. Mitchell's Mass Rock is rather easier to see, and has suffered no such desecration - it is in the gully behind the bookshop, on Drumclach croft, just below Dun Mheadhonach. The illustration shows the rock (reminiscent of the Gruagach Stone) and also the socket on the upper surface, supposedly intended to support a crucifix.

  

The Magazine Section

Colonsay in 1793 - 1st Statistical Account

"The Corncrake" seems to be getting about 600 or 700 "hits" per issue and a large proportion of our readers have expressed interest in historical material. We will be delighted to publish material on geology, zoology, lepidoptery or almost anything else, so do please feel free to submit work along those lines. In the meantime, we hope that readers might enjoy reading some early descriptions of Colonsay, as published in the Statistical Account. This was part of a general survey commissioned by the Church of Scotland and the following is extracted from the report of the then Minister, at a time when the parish was conjoined with Jura.

The minister resided in Jura and was therefore less familiar with the western part of his parish. Please note that this account is offered now for its value as a source document, giving a contemporary view of Colonsay as observed by an educated man of his day - certain of his statements would be challenged by modern opinion. The author was Mr. Francis Stewart, who was admitted on 23th September 1791 and translated to Kilchrenan and Dalavich in Lorn on 22nd July 1794 (Loder); he was a Gaelic speaker and his (apparently idle and highly unsatisfactory) assistant was one Mr. Patrick McRuer, resident in Colonsay.

Ist Statistical Account, as published in 1794:

"The islands of Colonsay and Oronsay form [the western division of the parish of Jura and Colonsay], and from their contiguity, the sound between them being dry at low water, may be considered as one island.

Name: Colonsay and Oronsay, derive their names from two saints, Colon and Oron. Oron had his cell in Colonsay, on the farm in which the present proprietor's house stands, but though his cell was in Colonsay, he seems to have been revered in Oronsay, which is so called after his name. Colon, who seems to have had no cell in either of the islands, was lucky enough to have his name preserved, by giving his name to Colonsay.

Situation, Extent and Surface: This western division of the parish, being considered as one island, has Mull on the N., is washed by the Atlantic on the W., and stretches across the sound of Islay on the E.; from which circumstance, it is called descriptively, Eilean Tarsuing, or Cross-lying Island. Ireland is the next land to it on the S. It is a flat island, when compared with the towering peaks of Mull and Jura in its neighbourhood. The surface, howver, is very unequal; there is a considerable number of rugged hills, covered over with heath. This division of the parish has been surveyed, and found to measure about 8000 acres, of which about 3000 are said to be arable.

Air, Climate, Soil etc. - The temperature of the air, and the climate, are nearly the same as in Jura. The inhabitants are robust and healthy; they live in the same simple manner with their brethren in Jura, and have neither lawyer nor surgeon in the island. The soil is generally light; along the shores it is sandy, but more fertile, and not so stony as that of Jura. Barley and potatoes are more productive crops here than oats. Artificialo grasses have been tried, and are found to answer. The sea-weed, of which there is great abundance for kelp and manure, has been tried with success upon meadow ground. When the surface is quite covered with it in winter, a dissolution and incorporation with the soil takes place, the natural clover and finer grasses are encouraged to shoot up, and a most luxuriant crop follows. The pasture on the low grounds, especially in the S. end of the island, is uncommonly rich.

Quadrupeds, Birds &c.: The system of converting arable into pasture, is making rapid progress in Colonsay. The best part of the island is under black cattle; these are in great request amongst the graziers, and thought to be a very fine breed. The breed of horses is small, and hardy, like that in Jura. The art of abridging labour, and keeping a few good cattle, has not yet established itself in this distant corner. Those innocent animals, the sheep, are totally banished, although there are no quickset hedges; and nature seems to have destined the heath-covered hills for their use. There are great numbers of rabbits in the island; but no hare, no partridge, and very few grouse.

Population:
Farms, in tillage 7, in pasture 8, Total 15
Families 134 Souls 718 Males 352 Females 366
Widowers 6 Widows 12

There are above 40 souls, at an average, in each of the farms [i.e. runrig settlements]; but some of these being very small, not having above 3 or 4 families, the number of souls in the best inhabited farms is very great. The average number of souls to a farm in Jura is 38. A few emigrated from Colonsay to America, summer 1792; but in summer 1791, a considerable proportion of the inhabitants crossed the Atlantic [a reference to the "General Washington", bound for Wilmington N.C.]. Those who remain give out that they are waiting only good accounts from their relations, and a proper opportunity of being transported to the other hemisphere [as provided by the "Spenser" in 1806]. Pity it is that such numbers should bid farewell to their native country, when there is so great a demand for useful citizens; and their situation might be rendered more comfortable at home. *

* Footnote here: The registers of marriages and baptisms have been kept so negligently in Colonsay, that, however defective this account may be without extracts from them, they cannot be admitted. The assistant preacher resides in Colonsay, but there is no proper house built for his accommodation; and there is no church to shelter the people from the inclemency of the weather. [One wonders if these "negligent" records still exist somewhere; the extant Parish Register begins in March 1796. The assistant preacher, Mr. Patrick McRuer, probably lived in the small hut on the north side of the modern road almost opposite Sguid Brideig; his "glebe" may be traced from the 1804 estate map.]

Antiquities, &c.: The remains of several Romish chapels are to be seen in Colonsay. There was a monastery of Cistercians in this island [Oransay Priory]. Their abbey stood in Colonsay, and its priory in Oronsay. The remains of the abbey were, with Gothic barbarity, torn asunder not many years ago, and the stones put into a new building. [Probably a reference to the first extension to Kiloran House (built 1722), by Donald McNeill who married in 1744 and died before 1773]. The walls of the priory are still standing, and next to Icolmkill, is one of the finest religious monuments of antiquity in the Hebrides. No metals of any kind, so far as I could learn, have been discovered in Colonsay. There are great quantities of sea-coral [shell-sand] on the shores, and it proves a very good maure.

PARISH OF JURA AND COLONSAY

This parish belongs to 6 heritors, of whom only 2 reside. The Duke of Argyll is patron.

Rental: Valued rent, £286.15s.5d sterling. Real rent £1656.2s.0d sterling.

Church, Manse, Poor, Schools &c.: The church and manse are in Jura. The church has stood for 12 years at least, has no place for a bell, and was never seated. The manse was built about 18 years ago; till then there was no manse in the parish. New office-houses were built, and the manse was repaired about 4 years ago, but so insufficiently, that it needs new repairs. The stipend is 2000 merks, out of which the minister pays, in terms of the decreet of augmentation, 800 merks to his assistant in Colonsay. The manse and glebe may be worth about £10. The allowance for communion elements is £2.10s. This sum is exceedingly small, and not at all adequate to the purpose. It is a peculiar hardship to the minister of Jura to be tied down to pay such a large proportion out of his benefice to an assistant-preacher, while he must, at the same time, incur the expense and danger of crossing broad perilous ferries to marry and baptize in the other islands [Scarba, Garbh Eileach etc.]. It is believed that there can be very few instances produced in Scotland, where the minister is not allowed to stipulate with his assistant, but obliged to take his chance of payments himself, and regularly pay his assistant a sum equal to 2/5ths of his stipend.

There are no funds for the poor except the weekly collections, and the casualties from fines and marriage-money. These different items may amount to £10 a year. The poor in this parish are not much in the habits of going about and begging; they are generally assisted by their relations, and very few of them have their sole dependence on the parish box.

There are 3 schools; a parish school and 2 charity schools. The parish school is in Jura; the salary is £7. One of the charity schools is in Colonsay, and the other in Jura. The salary of each of these is £15. These schools are of prodigious service towards enlightening the understanding, and improving the heart of a generation, that otherwise would be neglected. So many instances can be produced from the history of mankind, and from the noble exertions of the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, to prove that industry, probity, and every virtue, grow and flourish, not in a state of savage ignorance, but of civilization, of light, and of religion, that every encouragement ought to be given to this excellent institution. It can be shown in the clearest manner, that the landlords in the Highlands and islands, ought not only to be punctual in fulfilling the easy requisitions of the Society; but that it is their interest, should the charity schools be withdrawn, to educate the youths at their own expense. *

* Footnote here: Price of labour - A male servant employed in the business of farming, gets for the half year £2.; a female servant employed in the same business, gets for the half year £1.; a day labourer is paid 6d. and his victuals; a tailor 6d.; a shoemaker 6d.; a boat-carpenter 1s. a day and victuals. The price of labour, though considerably higher than it was some years ago, is still apparently low; but the labour is in proportion. Industry and the arts, have made such slow progress, that the expense of labour is full higher than in the low country.

Miscellaneous Observations: The language universally spoken in the parish is Gaelic. Very few of the old people understand English. But from the laudable endeavours of the schoolmasters to teach their scholars the vocabulary, and use of that language, and from a general opinion gaining ground, that it will be of great service in life, it is hoped that the rising generation will make considerable progress in acquiring the English language. The inhabitants do not feel that strong desire of bettering their circumstances, that would stimulate them to exertion and enterprize. Instead of trying the effects of industry at home, they foster the notion of getting at once into a state of ease and opulence, with their relations beyond the Atlantic.

Advantages and Disadvantages: Among the disadvantages of this parish, are its remote situation, the breadth and difficulty of its ferries to the main shore. Had the inhabitants easier access to see the industry, and mode of living in the interior parts of the country, they would probably follow the example of their more enlightened neighbours. Under this disadvantage, the landed gentlemen ought to bestow double diligence in opening the minds of the people; turning their attention to the common branches of education; introducing among them a spirit of industry and improvements. The island of Jura labours under a peculiar disadvantage from the great number of rapid rivers with which it is intersected. These come tumbling down from the mountains; and as they are not bridged, render the roads often impassable. There are no less than 6 of them in the space of 4 miles. The fuel used in this parish is peat, which, from the frequent rains in this watery climate, becomes very precarious. Last summer not above half the fuel was got home, and even that in very bad condition. But it is hoped that the legislature will adopt proper measures to take the duty off an article so universally and absolutely necessary as coal. [Not as yet: in AD 2000, government levies a tax of £9 a tonne on coal in Colonsay, and Argyll & Bute Council levy a further £5.50 per tonne; the ferry company (government owned) charges £55 a tonne for carriage; in Oban, coal retails at £110 a tonne, compared with £180 in Colonsay].

The advantages of this parish are its nearness to the lochs, where herring are caught; the great quantities of sea-weed everywhere on the shores, both for the purposes of kelp and of manure. He sea-coral of Colonsay is a valuable article. The slate of Balnahuaigh brings considerable returns to the proprietor. The sand for glass manufacture, and the slate in Jura, surely deserve attention. What in this island might be turned to great advantage, is its excellent wool. Were a few spinning machines introduced, and blanketing, and stockings manufactured, the hands that could be spared from agriculture and pasture would be usefully employed, and, instead of being a dead weight upon the proprietors, furnish an example of useful industry to their neighbours. The white herring-fishery is an object which might be prosecuted with advantage from every corner of the parish. The harbours of Jura, indeed, give it great advantage for large vessels, but through all the islands there are creeks for small fishing boats. Perhaps the best mode of encouraging the young men to embark in this undertaking, would be for the gentlemen to join with them in fitting out a few boats of moderate size for that purpose. Should these boats be successful, they would be the means of circulating money, an article which, from the absence of trade and manufactures, is very scarce among the lower classes. The little sums introduced in this way, would rouse a spirit of adventure, and give new springs to every kind of industry. From such small beginnings the extensive fishery carried on by our [herring] busses took its rise."

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Readers Write

Not a great response to our last issue, not a word about the Curries and not a word about that incredible Baptist minister's story. But we did get one additional accommodation recommendation for Oban:

We always use the Oban Youth Hostel, on our way to/from Colonsay - it's particularly useful on those late Friday night returns when most B&Bs are already in bed...

Frances Tyson
email: mnsft@management.bath.ac.uk

Holiday Snaps: Please see attached photo sent by my godfather. Sir John Graham after his recent holiday in Sri Lanka

Stone reads:

Hello,
According to our family history, our branch of the family originated in Colonsay where they were crofters. A younger son, William McNeill, was not in line to inherit so he moved to the village of Galston, near Glasgow, to obtain work. In Galston he had a son named Charles who was born in 1793.

At the age of thirty Charles McNeill sailed for Newfoundland and eventually settled in Labrador where he has descendants living today. (Charles was my great great great grandfather.) Our knowledge of his life in Labrador is extensive since there is a strong oral tradition on that coast. I am interested in any information you may have on his father William McNeill and his family. Thank you.
Curtis McNeill

Hi Kevin,
It will soon be time for another Corncrake. It has been a wonderful help to me. I had a descendant of Lauchlan McNeill contact me from British Columbia, and have been able to finish that section of my book. I am now working on my third extended family. HUGH McNEILL (Sept. 12,1800-Dec.13,1862) and FLORA McNEILL ( Sept.10,1796-Nov.2,1891)

They left Colonsay with four young children in about 1834 and went to Cape Bear, Prince Edward Island. By 1853 their family were grown and looking for land of their own, so they all moved to Elderslie Township, Bruce County, Ontario. Here they were joined by many other families from Colonsay.

I have good records of them up until the 1880s, when many of the 'third' generation moved to Vancouver or Victoria British Columbia.

Could you put this letter in your news letter in hope there might be a descendant who reads your Corncrake.? You may put in my email address so that they could contact me directly and not bother you.

I do have some information on the Curries mentioned in your last newsletter, so you may tell the writer to contact me.

Mary MacKay R.R.2 Dobbinton, ON N0H1l0   jms.mackay@bmts.com

We will be happy to receive more letters and, as always, the editor would like to hear from anyone who might wish to contribute. Individual articles on news or local events will always be welcome.
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