It was a great delight to see so many well-kent faces amongst the recent visitors. Recent ferries have been carrying about 100 passengers and 25 cars at a time, and on Good Friday there were 142 passengers and 35 cars - so the island was full at last, with everyone in excellent form. The weekend weather was not brilliant, which came as a bit of a shock after months of almost unbroken sunshine, but at least it was dry. There was plenty going on … Mary Machrins' family were at the heart of a belated Christmas Dinner (with all trimmings), which had had to be postponed beyond the usual date. Nigel and Rhona's house was chosen, and it was good to see the decorations and the party lights, and to hear of people trying to get a 22lb turkey into a 15lb oven at this time of year.

The Shooting Match was well-supported, and as always some competitors had travelled far to attend. Reports are a little uncertain, but it seems that Nigel was the overall champion, closely challenged by Duncan Sandy in second place; Seamus McNeill covered himself with glory, winning the Double Rise, and Iain Harding made a very respectable contribution, being adjudged "Best Dressed Competitor". One enthusiastic competitor had trouble with the moving targets, but scored a direct hit on the loader's shed; whereupon Italy was rumoured to have surrendered. The full results are now to hand:

Colonsay & Oronsay Gun Club

On Saturday night the Colonsay Thespians entertained a capacity audience in the Village Hall with two One Act Comedies. Both productions featured brilliant casting, all players being "stars". "Rory Aforesaid" ("A Sheepish Tale set in the West Highlands") was produced by Georgina and featured Keith as a somewhat bemused Court Officer, and Diane as an outraged farmer/shopkeeper litigant, the victim of the wily (and heavily-bearded) shepherd and sheep-stealer Rory MacColl (Christa). The prosecution witness, crofter Kate Garvard, was more than helpful to one and all, a situation which was exploited to the full by Rory's ultra-sophisticated Brief (Jenny), forcing the highly-judicious Sheriff (Angela) to find in his favour… only for the lawyer to be hoist on her own petard when she seeks her fee from oh-so-simple Rory.

After a brief pause for the consumption of 250 free glasses of wine, "Last Panto at Little Grimley" was performed in three scenes, produced by Diane. Members of a local Amateur Dramatic Group faced the hurdle of low budget and limited resources with typical resilience, despite the adamant refusal of "Margaret" (Rhona) to even contemplate baring her all once more in the interests of art; "Joyce" (Helen), seen by producer and martinet "Gordon" (Pedie) as having "less talent than a bucket of Donkey Droppings", bravely soldiers on in spite of all, as Gordon writes the script, Margaret polishes her airs and "Bernard" (Marion), the Andrew MacGregor of this production, finds himself plucked from behind (the scenes) and pressed into service as the rear-end of the pantomime horse. On opening night, last minute disaster means that the curtain rises upon a scene of total devastation and only Joyce, stepping forward bravely, can save the day …

The players and audience wish to thank all who helped to make this such a splendid night, especially Andrew (Lighting Director), Seamus (Musical Director), and Hazel, Netta, Sid, Wendy, Kate MacAllister, Carol and Hughie for work with scenery, curtains and everything else.

Cast of "Little Grimley" on stage

Of course, it did not all finish when that lady sang - instead, there was music, provided by "Follow That Camel", Campbeltown's finest band. And what music! These highly-talented and very popular musicians put heart and soul into a nonstop performance, and they quite literally had everybody on their feet. The dancing was impassioned, the craic was great and, in a Colonsay first, this columnist almost thought he saw a set of unmentionables being thrown towards the stage in homage. Perhaps if the photograph comes out it will be possible to identify their rightful owner…

Lead singer of "Follow That Camel"

Over £1,000 was raised in ticket money alone, and the lively bar (thanks to John, Angus and others) will have raised more again, all in aid of the Hall Fund.

On Easter Day there was a joint service held within the Baptist Church, but only just within. There was a capacity congregation, lots of families and well-scrubbed children behaving wonderfully. Local children sang some hymns as a special choir, and received prizes for their attendance at "The Club". Rev. Rodgers and John V. Roberts of Luing conducted the service, and there was a welcome distribution of Easter Eggs afterwards, as everyone mingled in the warm sunshine and commented upon the banks of flowering Bitter-cress.

Betty Galbraith awarding prize to Morag Grant in packed Baptist Church

There seems to be no doubt that the number of newly discovered outbreaks is falling fast, and that the five-day rolling average has been in decline for a fortnight. Obviously this is good news, but one must be aware that a small number of cases have suddenly appeared well without the bounds of the "affected areas" and that these are presumed to be the result of windborn movement or poor practice. Either way, these cases reinforce the argument in favour of maintaining high alert.

The need for concern is re-inforced by the widespread relaxation on access control. Undetected and unreported outbreaks may well exist in isolated areas, and it is perhaps possible that the falling graph is in any case a false dawn; we know that in most areas there is no treatment of outdoor footwear (other than what the individual happens to be wearing at the point of disinfection), and that bicycles on roof-racks have gone largely untreated. Naturally one hopes that the widespread relaxations are well considered, but it is important to remember that it will be two or three weeks before this will be confirmed by experience.

Fortunately, the modest precautions in place on arrival at Colonsay have allowed daily life and normal access to continue as usual. These precautions will be continued until local farmers and crofters decide otherwise. They are causing almost no delay or inconvenience, and the extraordinary goodwill and co-operation of all arriving visitors and friends has made for a very positive and cheery atmosphere.

To avoid doubt, the guidelines are repeated here:
Wash all outdoor footwear before packing it, and have it accessible for treatment on arrival in Colonsay
Try to get to Oban in time to use the carwash (e.g. Tesco. 3mins, £1.50; much better, use the £3.00 option, which gives special attention to the wheel arches etc.) If your vehicle is too big, use the carwash opposite the Co-Op, which has no size restriction.
If you have to bring a dog, wash it in a veterinary shampoo

Meantime, Georgina writes to say "Have just found a 1951 Edinburgh HMSO publication in which I discover that Gaelic for Foot and Mouth Disease is "An galar Ronnach" (Slavering Disease) . It also gives me the Welsh but you won't need that! It would be interesting to know if the Ettrick shepherd also gave the Gaelic for it. Billy Rees Mogg did an article recently about F&M through the ages and there was a huge outbreak in the winter of 1745/46 spread around the country by the rebels!!." If anybody can answer the James Hogg question, please let us know…

If any significant change in the Colonsay situation should arise, it will be flagged on the Homepage and full details will appear in an updating of this paragraph.

16th April: At the last minute, very bad news indeed. There is a confirmed case at Cushendall (in Antrim, better known hereabouts as "Red Bay"), which suggests an unexplained jump of over sixty miles. If the disease is confirmed, it will have been present in that area for a fortnight or so, during which time the wind direction averaged 220 degrees (southwesterly). Colonsay is barely sixty miles from Cushendall. Worse still, the huge "target" mass of Kintyre and Islay are much closer to Cushendall (14 and 22 miles), and directly on track. The shape of Islay is such that it presents both width and depth of over thirty miles to anything coming from the Antrim shore, and of course Islay itself is less than 5 miles from Colonsay. It will be important to consider the implications carefully. The Wednesday ferry brings day-trippers and petit-officials to Colonsay from both Islay and Kintyre, with whom there has been no prior agreement and who feel no special commitment to the island. An emergency meeting of the Community Council will discuss the situation tonight and their decision will appear here tomorrow.

17th April: A well-attended meeting reviewed available information, including precautions in force at Kintyre and Islay, a map with recent prevailing wind directions, veterinary advice from Islay etc. On balance, those present did not feel that windblown infection was a high risk, and that enhanced treatment of Wednesday foot passengers' footwear would be the best approach. (It was later decided that day-visitors' dogs will not be allowed into the island). It was agreed that a further meeting would be held if the disease reaches southern Argyll, and that if time is too short to hold a meeting, the Community Councillors will have to consult together and take whatever action it thinks best to procure a breathing space. It was agreed that Colonsay would spray vehicles going southwards as an act of courtesy, and that a letter of thanks be sent to the Farmers of Mull who are working so hard for us at Oban. The Coastguard are to be asked to add FMD guidance for yachtsmen to their Securite broadcasts, and Andrew has undertaken to maintain barrier matting where they will come ashore at the pier. It has been established that no information is being given to cruising yachtsmen, and that no disinfectant facilities exist at marinas. Thus a yachtsman from Cushendall can step ashore in Oransay, utterly without control or guidance...
April 23rd: Mercifully, the situation continues unchanged. It has so far proved impossible to achieve any official guidance for yachtsmen, but efforts continue. From a purely commercial viewpoint, the local economy is recovering fast and reports from far and wide suggest that the west highlands and islands may yet achieve a record year.

We MUST take EVERY precaution... this splendid Highland Cow is one of many

Hello - I'm Margaret - and I have been asked to do a monthly letter about the wild flowers on Colonsay. I am not a professional botanist - just someone who is fascinated by the variety of wild flowers on this small island.

The lovely sunny spring weather this week is at last bringing on the flowers in leaps and bounds. In April the woodlands have the biggest variety of flowers because they are flowering before the new leaves on the trees shade out the light. Woodland flowers often have conspicuous flowers to attract insects that are scarcer at this time of the year. They are often cup or bell shaped so that the air inside is warmer and stiller to make the insects more active. You only have to watch a bee scrabbling about inside a fritillary bell to see how true this is! There are already celandines, primroses, violets and pink purslane below the trees on the lane down to Kiloran Bay. Soon the bluebells, bugle, wood sorrel and ramsons will be flowering in the woods. Ransoms is wild garlic and you can smell it before you see it! The only known patch of wood anemones on Colonsay is in flower by the path down to The Pond and above them is a canopy of pink magnolia - beautiful against a blue sky.

The first orchid of the year - the early purple orchid - will be appearing in the Kiloran Bay car park area and look out for tormentil, wild strawberry flowers and bitter vetchling up the Uragaig lane.

I better stop now - I could go on all day! This is just a small sample of what can be seen (over the years I have seen more than 70 different species in flower here in April but flowering does seem to be a bit later this year). If anyone has any questions about the wild flowers on Colonsay or finds anything unusual I would be pleased to hear from them.       Margaret Keirnen.

[Note: The Blackthorn opposite the quarry peaked 24 April 2000, 27 April 1999; Corncrake at Port Mor 28th and 28th; Cuckoo 28th and 27th - Editor]

The schoolchildren are on holiday, but ended term with a spirited rendition of "Uptown Girl", with all the actions

To avoid doubt, the article in our last issue concerning the Community Rural Aid Programme (CRAP) was indeed a spoof. There is to be no widening of the roads, and no Kiloran Bypass, but we are most grateful to Gary Snyder for producing the very convincing photograph. Many people noted the date:

"FANTASTIC news about the roads upgrade. We do hope that a motorway route from Oronsay to Killoran Bay will be included, with suspension bridge over the Strand, sevice area at Scalasaig and a spur at Machrins to the international airport!!
We're looking forward greatly to being back in June, meanwhile much appreciating the news via the internet.
Celia & Barrie Sinton."

"Dear Kevin
It's just past 12.00 noon [April 1st], but I'd still like to let you how excited I was to read of the new by-pass scheme. We shall look forward to patronising the Burger King franchise at the Glassard Service Area while we are in Colonsay at Easter.
Best wishes, David Hoult "

One did hear stories about people who only skimmed through the article and became highly exercised at the proposed desecration of the island; but maybe we should draw a veil over all that and conclude with a picture of the island's only genuine piece of dual-carriageway. Maintaining a long tradition ("Spion Kop", "The Burma Road", "The Khyber Pass"), this feature has become known as "The Ghaza Strip"

There is a story in circulation which suggests that Colonsay has become a target for people wishing to steal birds' eggs. Whether or not such activity has truly taken place we do not know, but this seems to be a danger that we should be aware of. In the past, it has been enough for a dedicated person to simply dog the tracks of a suspicious character but nowadays, with a mobile phone, it should be possible to gather assistance. It can be a serious offence even to disturb birds, let alone approach their breeding or nesting grounds; if you see people trying to flush a corncrake or creating any sort of disturbance, a polite word may be enough. If you are not confident or feel uneasy, do not hesitate to alert the landowner or tenant, and otherwise contact the Special Constable (Nigel Grant) at 200303

A book-signing on Thursday by Pru Irvine (of "Easy-Peasy" cookbook fame) was a huge success at Colonsay Bookshop, with all available copies being sold; Frank is thought to be collecting his new boat later this week; MV "Isle of Arran" will be replaced by MV "Hebridean Isles" on our Wednesday service this year; the Community Company has taken delivery of its first consignment of coal; two jobs are on offer - LGV driver for the dustcart, 6 hours work spread across three days @ £5.03 per hour, or Home Help, hours to suit yourself, £5.35 per hour; the Planning Authority has rejected the design for the new Housing Associatian homes (not dark enough, too energy efficient, do not look as if made of wattle-and-daub) - can any reader supply a photograph of a Planner's own house?; everyone got home safely after the Saturday night dance, absolutely everyone; strange lights and noises were seen and heard about 30 yards east and west of Maggie Thomson's cottage in the early hours of the 15th, U.F.O.'s have been suggested.

Jenny & Craig, Brian and Frank at Andrew MacGregor's housewarming, before the door came off; and Maryann about to head for Cloud Nine after her party at Ben Odhran

McNeill's Deerhounds

Colonsay - 2nd Statistical Account

In our last issue, we published the 1st Statistical Account, describing Colonsay in the 1790's. It was received very favourably, and new readers can find it in our archives. We now move forward fifty years, to the winter of 1844. Looking at the Parish Register, one can see that there were eight marriages in the previous twelve months, and eight baptisms, whereas in 1796 (the first available record) there had been five marriages and thirty baptisms. Possibly these figures are misleading - in 1796, there was only one ministry. By 1844, many of the community had adopted the Baptist form of worship, and infant baptism may have become less popular - two graveyards still exist which are said to have been used for unbaptised infants. The long tenure of John McNeill, ("The Old Laird") was drawing to a close, and Colonsay stood on the brink of a decade of near-famine and disease - in the ten years between 1841 and 1851, the population fell from 979 to 837, and by 1861 would be less than 600. In 1848, when the Register of Deaths begins, the first five deaths were aged 2.5 years, 12 years, 1.5 yrs, 6yrs and 2 yrs - by July 1850, the minister himself was moved to add a note "Jas. McMillan, Kilchattan, 42 yrs, the 3rd. out of one house…".
Of course, all this lay in the future, and the minister, writing from his main residence in Jura, could only describe things as they were.

"Colonsay and Oransay.
1. Topography and Natural History.

Name - These islands form one island when the tide retires, but are separated at flood-tide by an arm of the sea a mile broad, where it is usually crossed. At the point where they approach nearest, the islands are not above 100 yards apart. By the Highlanders, the name of Eilean tarsuing is given to the whole island, and it is so called with reference to its apparent position to the eye of the mariner, (tarsuing meaning in Gaelic "oblique"); but the two islands are generally known under the names of Colonsay and Oransay. These names are evidently Scandinavian, and signify the islands of St. Columba and St. Oran, a companion of St. Columba's, well-known to tradition. Previously to the occupation of the Western Islands by the Scandinavians, the larger island, (if not both), seems to have been called Hymba. There is an old tradition, that St. Columba had an establishment in Colonsay before he went to Iona; and as Adomnan, in his life of St. Columba, frequently mentions Hymba as the name of an island in which the saint resided before he went to Iona, and that Ernanus, the Oran of tradition, was the first Abbot of the monastery he established there; and as the smaller island is called the island of St. Oran, and the old church in Colonsay was called Killoran, or Church of Oran, there seems little doubt of the identity. Colonsay may therefore boast of being the first of the Western Islands in which the Christian church was established.
[Note: It is now accepted by scholars that Hynba was indeed synonymous with Colonsay (embracing Oransay), and more romantically St. Columba is felt to have had a special affection for the southern part, which is today called Oransay. Both "Colonsay" and "Oransay" are now accepted to be Norse names, although "Colonsay" may be a Norse corruption of a pre-existing Gaelic name (e.g. Columba's Isle).- editor]

Extent - The Islands of Colonsay and Oransay are from the southern end of Oransay to the northern of Colonsay, about 12 miles long and from 1 to 3 briad; the superficial contents are about 9000 Scotch acres, of which one-third are meadow or arable ground.

II. CIVIL HISTORY

Land-owners - John McNeill, Esq. Of Colonsay, is proprietor of both islands. The McNeills have now been inpossession of these islands for nearly 150 years, - Doual McNeill, the first proprietor of that name, having received them from the Duke of Argyle in exchange for property in South Knapdale. The old possessors were the McDuffies or McPhies of Colonsay, who possessed it under the Lords of the Isles. The last of them, viz. Malcolm McDuffy of Colonsay, was put to death by Gillespie McDonald, commonly called Colkitto, whose family possessed the island for two generations.
Mansion-houses - There are two mansion-houses. That of Killoran, in Colonsay, was built in 1722, on the site of the old Culdee establishment there: the present laird of Colonsay has added two wings, making a most comfortable house for the accommodation of a large family. The mansion-house at Oransay was built in 1772, and is a commodious dwelling-house.
Antiquities - There is in these islands one of the most extensive and interesting remains of the monastic establishments in the Western Isles, viz. The ruins of the priory of Oransay. There was a Culdee establishment in the island, and, as we have reason to think, the first founded by St. Columba. The priory of Oransay was founded by the Lord of the Isles, and filled with regular canons brought from the Abbey of Holyrood, upon which abbey it was dependent. With the exception of those at Iona, these are by far the finest of the ecclesiastical remains in the West Highlands. There is a church in which the tombstones of the ancient possessors of the islands are to be seen, considerable remains of the cloisters and of the monastic buildings usually attached to it, and near the church an ancient cross, part of the inscription on which is still legible, and contains the words, "Haec est Crux Colini Prior, Orisoi obiit M.DX.:::". {Note: actually reads Haec est crux Colini, Filii Cristini MeicDufaci, "This is the cross of Malcolm, son of Christian MacDuffie"]. The ruins are close to the mansion-house, and form a venerable and interesting feature in a scene of wild and solitary beauty.
In a loch in Colonsay, there are the ruins of an old castle or fort upon an island in the middle of it, and to this stronghold the lairds of Colonsay used to retire, when threatened with danger.

III. POPULATION

By the census taken in 1835 the population amounted to 839.

IV. INDUSTRY

Improvements - There are, perhaps, few estates in Scotland on which so much has been done in improvement, (and that by the exertions of one individual alone,) as the estate of Colonsay. The present proprietor, Mr McNeill of Colonsay, (who retains the greater portion of the island in his own hands,) has not only turned the land formerly in tillage to the best account, but he has also reclaimed a vast extent of moors, hills, and peat mosses from a state of absolute waste to that of productive soil. He has introduced the improved system of husbandry, in the utmost latitude of the expression, into Colonsay, and his crops are among the best in the West of Scotland. Of late years he has drained a great extent of meadow land, and every year more of the barren land has been brought into cultivation, and several thousand roods of stone dykes have been built. [Note: an obvious example of this work is the area now known as "An Geata Dubh" (The Black Gate, the "T" junction for Oransay); this area had been a shallow loch, which McNeill drained by a cutting to Loch Staoisnaig. He then moved the road down off the better land into the reclaimed bog, and an example of his walling can be seen on the east of Milbuie Brae, with the original roadway still visible in the field behind the wall - Editor].
No roads were made in Colonsay till the present proprietor commenced them, and the island is now intersected by an excellent road, made entirely at his expense, with the aid of the statute labour. Mr McNeill has thus, by judicious, persevering, and well-directed efforts, not only brought his estate into a high condition of cultivation and productiveness, but he has likewise much improved the condition of the small crofters, and afforded constant occupation to a numerous and comfortable population.
In addition to this, Mr McNeill has much improved his stock of black-cattle, and brought them to a degree of excellence which has never been surpassed. By good management and great attention to breeding, his stock are now the best in the market. The bulls bear a very high value for breeding, and have sold for £200. He breeds about 200 calves yearly, and winters about 1,000 head of black-cattle. The principle exports, besides cattle, are bear [coarse grain] and potatoes. Of the latter, Mr McNeill raises about 1000 bolls (4000 sacks) annually.

V. PAROCHIAL ECONOMY

Harbours - There is an excellent harbour in Colonsay, called Portnafeamin, where a substantial quay has been built by the proprietor, and from which a good road leads into the island. Rise and fall of tide fits it for repairing vessels of considerable burthen, and it is considered the best harbour for this purpose in the Hebrides. There are also two good road-steads: one called Stursanie and the other Coulismore. Cod-fishing is carried on to a considerable extent by the people of the island, and its banks are frequented by the fishing-boats of Islay, Gigha, and Kintire. The flat fish on the banks nearer the shore is also abundant and of the best quality.
Mr McNeill has planted a considerable extent of ground; and the forest trees, especially the elm, ash, and sycamore, are in a very thriving condition. [Note: the garden ground at Bailerominmor is hedged with sycamore; the house was built as a dower-house for the Old Laird's mother, Mary McDougall, with a window positioned to give her a view towards the lands of the McDougalls - editor]. The alder trees about the garden at Colonsay House have attained a size unequalled in any of the neighbouring islands.
Ecclesiastical State - The islands of Colonsay and Oransay have not been ecclesiastically separated from the rest of the parish [Jura, Scarba, Garbh Eileach etc.], but there is a permanent assistant at Colonsay, who was placed there by the exertions of the present proprietor in 1833. There is a good church, and the proprietor furnishes the assistant with a house and garden and other accommodations.
[Note: The minister makes no reference to the thriving Baptist community. The 1841 census records Hugh McCalman of Baileromindubh as being a "Minister of the Gospel", and the baptism of his son John (at Tarbert 15 March 1838) confirms that he was associated with the Established church. His daughter Julia was baptised by Revd. Alexr. Kenedy of Jura September 29 1839. No reference later than 1841 appears, so it is difficult to be certain if he was the assistant mentioned in 1844. It is interesting that the minister makes no mention of the Disruption of May 1843, when 470 out of 1195 ministers left the Church of Scotland. "… patronage was the great issue. … Patronage was the system whereby large landowners, or the crown, had the right to select and present ministers to vacant parishes." (The People of the Great Faith, by Douglas Andsell, Acair 1998 ISBN 0 86152 198 6). Revd. Kenedy may have avoided mentioning those issues, but it is clear from his attitude that he is deeply conscious of exactly who it is that pays his wages. He has plenty to say about "the proprietor" and almost nothing to say about his flock - editor]

Inns Etc. - Near the harbour is a small but neat inn; and, at a short distance, the smithy.
February 1844"

The Colonsay Register

Are you seeking information on a Colonsay emigrant? Elsewhere on this website (via the genealogy section) you will find "The Colonsay Register", which lists many hundreds of migrants by date, destination and name of ship. You will notice that email addresses have been posted against some of the names, enabling easy contact with interested researchers. This is a free service, available to any interested party. To avail of it, please follow the simple instructions on the page, so that your own contact details can be associated with any individual whom you are researching.

Please use the suggested format, and do not include additional correspondence with that specific message as it makes for difficulties at this end. We know that The Register has already had some successes and as time goes by it is "spidered" by increasing numbers of search engines. If your listing does not appear within a fortnight, send a reminder!

Letter from Australia

McNeill Inscriptions, Greenock Cemetery

Websites to explore: SAMS and OceanNET

Colonsay Weather, Jan - March

Regulars

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