The picture depicts a remarkable stone at Balnahard, on the slope overlooking Port na Cuilce. Despite its great weight, it is delicately poised and must have been a well-known landmark. That area was once well populated, it is close to three important duns and and there are eighteenth century sites close by. Unfortunately, the present writer has been unable to discover the name by which this stone was known - at a hazard, could it be " an sgonn", recorded by Grieve as meaning "A lump", "the local name for a glaiserig stone"? Dwelly mentions "sgonn cloiche" as meaning a block of stone, and "sgonn gille", a heavy-headed fellow; but of course such a word would also fit the Gruagach stone, to which Grieve seems to have referred. Clarification would be welcome.

The Magazine Section

Colonsay Gravestone at Kilmartin

McNeill Clearances in Jura?

Scott Buie has kindly furnished some interesting material, which is given below. It will be remembered that Malcolm McNeill, who purchased Colonsay in March 1701, was the son of Donald McNeill of Crear and that Malcolm is credited by Loder as having "acquired Ardlussa in Jura". Since his father died in 1707, the Donald McNeill of Colonsay mentioned below must be Malcolm's son, who later inherited Colonsay as well. Some readers will recall that virtually every leader of the "Thistle" expedition of 1737 was closely related to McNeill of Colonsay, and that one of the leaders was Neil McNeill of Ardlussa. Could it be that Neil, a close relative of Malcolm, has sold his interest in Ardlussa to the Colonsay family preparatory to his removal to the New World? And that Donald McNeill was issuing notices to quit in the guise of a new broom in Jura?

Scott Buie notes that: "The following is a list of tenants warned to remove from the area of Ardlussa on Jura. It does not necessarily mean that the tenants eventually left nor if other tenants were at Ardlussa in 1735, but does provide a rare list of early Jura inhabitants at Ardlussa. The McNeill of Colonsay papers do not include any mention of the McNeill's holdings on Jura and we are fortunate that this Sheriff Court record survives."

National Archives of Scotland, Argyll Sheriff Court Processes SC54/2/47,

Donald McNeill of Colonsay against tenants
"warning of tenants to remove"
9 May 1735

Christian McIlmichel in Lealt
Mary McKellar in Ardlussa
Finlay McVrion in Ardlussa
Duncan McVrethish, miller, in Ardlussa
John Lamont in Ardlussa
Neil Shaw in Ardlussa
Duncan Shaw in Ardlussa
Torquill McNeill in Ardslussa
Donald Shaw elder in Ardlussa
John McOShenoig in Ardlussa
Malcom McLeran in Ardlussa
Donald Shaw younger in Ardlussa
Mary McIlreioch in Ardlussa
Malcolm Shaw in Ardlussa
Duncan McIlreoch in Ardlussa
Gilbert McInnes in Ardlussa
Donald Shaw in Ardlussa
John McVrion in Ardlussa
Donald Clerk in Ardlussa
John Clerk in Ardlussa
Catherin Shaw in Ardlussa
John Schaw smith in Ardlussa
Neil McIlrevich in Ballemeaus

Some Colonsay residents of 1799

Scott Buie has been heavily involved in "Argyll Colony Plus", an excellent publication which we are fortunate to have available for consultation in Colonsay. In a contribution of July 1997, Captain Ian MacDonald drew attention to a list of Knapdale young men aged 18 - 24 years, who were registered for drafting into a militia in the event of invasion by the French. Curiously enough "enclosed with the North Knapdale list was a list for the Island of Colonsay". The original documents are in the care of the County Archivist, and the following names will hopefully prove to be of great interest to Colonsay researchers. Note that the Amos family is not represented, nor that of McAllister; the family of McFale is remembered near Scalasaig at Fang Phail and at Balnahard (Fang Mhic Phail). I think that John Clark mentioned there having been a smith close to Fang Phail (the ruined house beside the old Cable Hut), as well as at Bealach na Ceardach. A number of the individuals mentioned may be identified in the Marriage Register of the early 1800's - Editor.

Malcolm Currie, weaver
Donald McNeill, herd
John McDuffie, labourer
Alexander McMillan, labourer
Angus Graham, labourer
Donald McLean, merchant
John Galbraith, labourer
Donald McNeill, labourer
Dugald McNeill, labourer
Archibald McEachern, labourer
Dugald Bell, labourer
Duncan Shaw, labourer
John McCannell, labourer
Angus Munn, labourer
James Darroch, boatman
Duncan McEacharn, smith
Hector McEacharn, labourer
John McFale, labourer
Neil Darroch, labourer
Donald Shaw, tenant

Colonsay Described, in 1953

The 1st and 2nd Statistical Accounts of Colonsay appeared in recent issues of "The Corncrake", giving descriptions of the parish as seen by Church of Scotland ministers in the 1790's and 1840's. There was then a bit of a gap, until the 3rd Statistical Account appeared, written in 1952 by Rev. John Y. Clark and posthumously revised in 1955 prior to publication. Rev. Clark was the minister in Colonsay 1943 until 1952 and was pre-deceased by his first wife, Edith, who died in 1948. As a matter of record, it seems worthwhile to mention an old story that on his re-marriage he was unable to enjoy his proper rest. According to the story, he and his new bride had the impression that their bed, a "two-poster" (half-tester), was being shaken violently in the night. Eventually the problem was solved by the acquisition of a new bed, whereupon the offending one was transferred to the hotel, where it performed sterling service for many years in Room 1. (Room 1 is above the Cocktail Bar, and although the original bed is long gone, it is said that there are still occasions upon which patrons have heard movements from its successors).

More significantly, it was during the ministry of Rev. Clark that it was unanimously agreed that women were eligible to serve as Elders and to take a "larger share in Church management" (19th December 1945). His ministry was clearly one which was valued: "On Sunday 19th June 1949 a Mahogany Communion Table chair was dedicated… the chair was the gift of Rev. A.E.Robertson of Edinburgh, who in 1948 found a log of mahogany which had been stranded at Port Lobh, Colonsay, purchased it from the authorities and, with his own hands, turned out a beautiful chair, which he presented to the Congegation as a thank offering to God for the privilege of spending an enjoyable and beneficial holiday in Colonsay for the past three years". The chair may still be seen.

Such a tribute was not unique. In December 1950, Miss Flora McNeill of Greenock and her friend, Miss Logan, presented 37 silver clips to the Kirk Session, to secure the cloths at each Communion service, having been "greatly impressed" by a service that they had attended. The original linen Communion cloth, which had been hand made from flax grown within the island, has sadly been lost to the island in recent years, but the clips are still in use.

It should be noted that this extract is from a copyright source and that it has been reproduced here (in consultation with the Session Clerk) for the private reference of parishioners and students of this island, and for comparative purposes only. It is part of a large and comprehensive publication, and this extract should not be further reproduced or circulated without permission from the copyright owners.

"The Physical Setting: This parish consists of Colonsay and Oronsay along with one or two small adjacent islands; at low water a stretch of sand between Colonsay and Oronsay allows communication on foot or by motor or horse vehicle. Colonsay is about eight miles long, and the two islands together are some eleven miles in length, and from one to three miles in breadth. The area of the entire parish is just over 17.25 square miles. Colonsay lies some 37 miles south-west of Oban, the nearest mainland port of any size, but the nearest point for communication with the mainland is Islay, some eight miles distant. Compared with other parts of Argyll, Colonsay is very low0lying, the highest eminence being not more than 470 feet. In spite of this an extensive view can be obtained from different parts of the island, so that under favourable conditions Ben Nevis, some 60 miles away, and the massive Ben Cruachan, about 50 miles distant, are visible.

The coast looks rocky and bare, but in the middle of the island the soil is very fertile; the best land is found below the 250 foot level. The climate is moderate, and the rainfall, which averages 47.4 inches per annum, is less than in some neighbouring and mountainous islands. Colonsay is notable for its lack of trees; its small woods of oak, birch and hazel are somewhat scrubby; and no serious attempt has been made at afforestation. Seals haunt the shores, and all kinds of sea-birds familiar to the Hebrides visit or pass over the island.

History: The islands of the parish formed part of the Lordship of the Isles, and in the seventeenth century their possession alternated between the MacDonalds and Campbells. From 1701, when they acquired Colonsay from the first Duke of Argyll, the MacNeills were in control for about two centuries. Notable in this line of lairds were John MacNeill, a progressive and enlightened agriculturist, who carried out many improvements between 1805 and 1846 and is frequently referred to as 'the old Laird', and his son Duncan (1793-1874), who had a distinguished legal career, being appointed Lord Justice-General and Lord President of the Court of Session in 1852, and created Baron Colonsay and Oronsay in 1867. On the death of the last of the line, Major-General John Carstairs MacNeill, the estates had to be sold and came into the ownership of the first Lord Strathcona, who died in 1914. He was succeeded by his daughter and, on her death in 1926, the present Lord Strathcona inherited the estates; he is still in possession.
[Footnote: The third Baron Strathcona and Mount Royal died in February 1959 and was succeeded by his eldest son.]

Population: The story of the population of Colonsay and Oronsay is the familiar one of fairly steady growth to a peak figure in 1841 and of almost uninterrupted decline during the past century.

The decline was due to the prevailing economic conditions. Agricultural prices had fallen; the kelp industry had gone; and the population could not easily be supported under the continual subdivision of holdings. Capital was lacking, so that the crofters were driven to occupy marginal and unproductive land and came to depend more and more on fishing as a means of supporting their families. Summer employment in the lowlands became more and more essential. Emigration was not a complete solution, for the emigrants tended to be the more ambitious natives, whose industry would earn a livelihood anywhere. Fortunately the population seems to have reached its lowest point, and the drop of only five persons between 1931 and 1951 seems trifling inh the light of general Highland experience; the population may show an actual increase at the next Census, if the present insular prosperity is maintained.

[Editor's note: Sadly, Rev. Clark was wrong. The figures were to be as follows:
   1961: 166    1971: 137    1977: 127    1981: 137    1989: 122    2001: 114]

Ecclesiastical Affairs: In 1549 there was said to be a parish church in Colonsay, and Canons serving the Priory of Oronsay, where extensive ruins attest its importance in bygone days. After the Reformation the Protestants seem to have done little or nothing in the religious interests of the islanders until, after the lapse of nearly three generations, the Synod of Argyll began to take up seriously the replanting of churches. At first little could be done because one minister had charge of Gigha, Jura and Colonsay; this was a hopeless burden for one man to carry, and a division of responsibility took place when Jura and Colonsay were united as a combined charge for one minister. In 1645 the Synod commended the island of Colonsay to the care of the Islay ministers, who were to get the Colonsay stipend for their pains; some six years later it was decided to attach Colonsay and Oronsay to the church of Kilchoman in Islay. The position continued to be unsatisfactory until after the Revolution.

The present parish church of Colonsay was built in 1802 and was designed for 200 worshippers [cf. 400 mentioned by Loder - d.]. In spite of local discontent with the arrangements for religious observances, there was no move among the islanders towards secession in 1843, and the Disruption left no mark on Colonsay. A much-needed reform was carried out in 1861 when Colonsay was made a separate charge, independent of Jura. Although the Free Church did not organise a charge, the people were not all supporters of the Church of Scotland. A Baptist church, built in 1879, flourished for a period, but has become sadly depleted, as many supporters left the island to earn a livelihood either on the mainland or in the Commonwealth.

Education: The Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge deserves much credit for its efforts to spread education throughout the Highlands. Along with other areas, Colonsay profited and, between the years 1827 and 1868, some 431 island children attended for varying periods the schools supported by the Society. The "New Statistical Account" of Colonsay, written in 1844, makes no reference of any kind to educational matters on the island, and this may be regarded as evidence that the writer had little that he could say with pride on the subject. Even after the Education Act of 1872, Colonsay, like other insular places, suffered from the difficulty of securing teachers willing to settle in what was considered a remote area. A further improvement followed the Education Act of 1918, and later Acts brought about new reforms, one of which ensured that teachers living in remote districts were as well off financially as those in populous areas. The standard of education rose rapidly; the majority of the children could be instructed only up to the end of the primary stage, but bursaries became available to enable selected pupils to study at junior or senior secondary schools within the county.

At present, more than 40 pupils in regular attendance are taught by a staff of two teachers. The old school, erected by the former school board and somewhat small and restricted by modern standards, is to be enlarged by the incorporation of the schoolmaster's house into the existing school premises and by providing the schoolmaster with and up-to-date dwelling-house. The keenness of the parishioners for education is reflected in the number of pupils who have left home to continue their secondary studies on the mainland: in recent years as many as 18 youths and girls have studied at mainland secondary schools, and four of them have graduated at Glasgow University. This is a source of justifiable pride to the islanders, but it is regrettably certain that the majority of these young people of superior education and ability will be lost to Colonsay.

[In 2001, there are 8 pupils at the primary school, also three students at secondary school on the mainland, besides three undergraduates and one postgraduate at university. Oddly, Rev. Clark makes no mention of Prof. MacKinnon or Dr. McNeill, both of whom graduated with Firsts in the 19th century and became leaders in their fields. Nor even of his Session Clerk, Murdoch MacNeill, the botanist and Gaelic scholar, whose local work is about to be republished in Colonsay - Editor]

Housing: The Census of 1951 showed 68 occupied and nine unoccupied houses in the parish, with a total of 392 separate rooms; these figures do not suggest any acute problems, but housing is not at a standstill. The policy of successive lairds has in general been beneficent and enlightened. Many improvements have been effected since the First World War, and the old-fashioned thatched cottages have completely disappeared. In 1918 [sic] a transfer of population occurred when the occupants of the small village of Riasg Buidhe, or "Yellow Marsh", took over a new settlement at Glassard. Several cottages at Scalasaig and Kilchattan have been rebuilt or reconditioned in recent times, and several new houses are likely to be available in the early future.

Transport: The roads in the island are suitable for local purposes; they were constructed to carry horse and not motor traffic. There were really no roads before the time of the laird, John MacNeill, who is mainly responsible for their construction; he also had the small pier and breakwater at Scalasaig built, but the pier, fit only for ferrying, is due for replacement by a new pier to be built by the county council. The islanders feel that their facilities are inadequate; the weather is often stormy, and landing by ferry-boat is at times dangerous, in spite of all the skill of the boatmen. The regular steamer calls twice a week with mails and light cargo, and this service is supplemented in summer by two additional weekly calls. Some parishioners regret the passing of the old steamer service to and from Oban, the nearest railhead town for provisions and postal and passenger traffic, but the present service, by way of Glasgow, Tarbert Loch Fyne and Islay, has its compensations and appeals to many, especialy those who did not enjoy the tossing on the open though short Atlantic voyage. In emergencies it is possible to travel to and from Islay in hired boat, while seriously ill patients can be taken by plane to the appropriate hospital. Unfortunately, Colonsay can join in the chorus of protest against the high freight charges that have to be faced. [Note: Bulk freight (e.g. coal) is charged at £55 per tonne in 2001; parcels are charged individually - freight on a typical order from a supermarket (say £75 value) will add about £12 - £15 to the cost - Editor]

Occupations: Agriculture is, as it has long been, the principal industry of the island, but it is subject to certain difficulties. The "improving" lairds flourished before the days of scientific agriculture, while the newer labour-saving appliances are more readily useful on a large farm than on a croft. The motor tractor is speedier and more serviceable, where it has freedom to manouevre, than the old-time horse and cart, and its use will probably spread in time to the crofts, as smaller vehicles become available and costs fall to suit the crofters' pockets; already one pioneering crofter has introduced mechanical aids, and his success will doubtless influence others to follow his example. The standard of farming, traditionally higher in Colonsay than in other insular areas, is being more than maintained. The Department of Agriculture has done much to help, not only with ready advice from its experts, but also by providing pedigree bulls to raise the quality of the local stock. The income of the farmers comes chiefly from their sales of beef cattle and sheep. The principal crops grown are oats, rye-grass, meadow-grass, kale, turnips and potatoes. The general occupations of the islanders include fishing and rabbit-trapping, although the latter is likely to vanish if the farmers decide that rabbits bring more loss than gain and that with their elimination crops will be heavier and better. Poultry-keeping affords a welcome supplementary income, but could be greatly augmented by the adoption of modern methods that have proved successful elsewhere. In recent times several islanders have found bee-keeping a worthwhile sideline.

Tourism is likely to be important in the future, though the island will not be popular with the crowds. Colonsay, indeed, has an appeal all its own to the visitor who finds pleasure in the memorials of the past, or to the historian who must see with his own eyes the places were great deeds were done, or to the botanist and the zoologist who will find much of interest; moreover scores of ordinary folk take delight in 'yarns' with the cheery, hospitable islanders and find health-giving restoratives in its stimulating sea-breezes. Additional accommodation is still needed on the island, but this is improving as time goes on, and visitors have no longer to adjust themselves to the housing difficulties of a century ago.

Social Life: A medical practitioneris resident on the island. Without any general water supply, the people draw their requirements from the springs and wells that dot the parish. More than 40 houses in the parish have telephones installed.

Though the population is scattered, the islanders are of a sociable nature and contrive to meet occasionally. There is a flourishing and enthusiastic branch of the Woman's Guild of the Church of Scotland, while the Woman's Rural Institute has also taken firm root in the island. An annual regatta, with children's sports, brings the parishioners together, and a recent importation from the mainland - sheep dog trials - seems to have established itself firmly in favour.

No revolutionary changes are foreseen in the way of life of the people, who are reasonably prosperous and contented with their lot, though ever on the alert to improve it. They are law-abiding to the extent that serious crime is wholly unknown, and there is not even a resident policeman in the parish. In an island with so many memorials of the ancient Celtic, the Roman Catholic and the modern churches, the people are reverend but not ostentatiously religious; church attendance has not recently been what it was in pre-war days, but there is no open hostility to the church.

One pleasing feature is the fondness for reading, and the branch of the County Library, set up in the school, has many keen and enthusiastic readers, especially, as one would expect, in the long winter. Two other boons are needed for the enrichment of the life of the parishioners - the provision of an up-to-date public hall with rooms suitable for communal purposes, and the introduction of electricity into all homes and meeting places. The faith of the people of Colonsay and Oronsay is such that they believe that these boons will be theirs long before another Census falls to be taken."

Website to Explore