

SENSATIONAL DISCOVERY OF bUFO IN COLONSAY
Colonsay's amphibious species list rocketed from zero to one on Thursday 27th September, when an islander came across the first known example of such a creature. Whilst working in her garden overlooking Poll Gorm, Esme Marshall was startled to discover no less a rarity than a Toad. Scottish naturalist circles have already expressed great interest and photographs will be sent away for positive identification.
Peter Wormell, for many years Colonsay's visiting N.C.C. expert, has an extensive knowledge of the island, much enhanced by his special study of the local moths; he was able to give assurance that there are no implications for other species. He was delighted to have learned of this discovery, and wonders if it is truly native or whether it could have arrived in a load of hay or garden supplies.
It is not many years since an entirely new species of water-beetle was discovered at Balavetchy and it is now dignified by the name of the discoverer's secretary. Although it is nice to speculate upon possible appellations for a new species of toad, we will no doubt discover that it already has a name of its own.

PRIMARY 1, CLASS OF 2001
A total of four children entered Primary 1 class at Kilchattan this term, bringing the school roll to eleven. Pictured here from left to right are Millie Howard, Glen Brown and cousins Calum and Liam McNeill
MEMORIAL APPEAL
Please remember to make your contribution soon if you wish to be associated with the memorial to Richard Prior, buried at Colonsay 1912, and those of his family who gave their lives in the Great War and who have no known graves. Details were in "Corncrake" No. 39 and are on notices at Shop, Hotel and Pantry.
EXTRA FERRY SERVICE FOR 2002
As of Easter Saturday, five additional commercial services per week will be on offer to foot passengers (and perhaps the odd bicycle), linking Colonsay with Islay, Jura and Mull. These are intended to complement the lifeline services of Caledonian MacBrayne, and to offer flexibility to ramblers and holidaymakers, as well as to local residents. It is hoped that the service will prove attractive to backpackers and give a boost to B & B operators within the islands.
Kevin and Christa Byrne have operated boat hire in Colonsay since 1988 and they have been working for upwards of a year to establish an enhanced service in line with new legislation. They have at last achieved success, with the substantial support of Argyll & the Isles Enterprise. Following AIE approval on September 19th, they have arranged the purchase of a Lochin 33, a powerful boat with excellent seakeeping qualities. This boat has the same hull as is used for the "Breda" class lifeboats of RNLI; she has a substantial and uncluttered open deck and there is plenty of room in her capacious wheelhouse.
The boat will be fully compliant with Maritime Coastguard Agency regulations, and licensed to carry up to 12 passengers and 2 crew. Equipment includes radar, GPS, autohelm, fishfinder etc., there is an on-board toilet and a small galley. Being based at Scalasaig and with a normal service-speed of 12 knots, she will be well placed to give a service throughout the Firth of Lorn.
It is hoped that some additional employment will be created locally, as a two-person crew will be required for much of her schedule. There will be also be a need for a further qualified skipper, and it is hoped that a local sports fisherman will accompany her on fishing trips.
There will be a wide range of trips on offer, including picnic cruises in Loch Tarbert, whale-watching off the Ross of Mull, distillery visits to Bunnahabhain and many more. For active people, a trip to Jura and an accompanied ascent of Beinn an Oir will be quite a challenge. This is the highest of the Paps, and rises straight from sea-level to 2,571 feet - not the easiest of walks, but hopefully well within the ability of the fittest of our visitors and planned to be on offer each Saturday.
Special trips to the Garvellochs, to Iona and to Corrievreckan will all be possible, and there are to be regular runs to Islay, Jura and Mull to provide a ferry service for foot-passengers. For generations, the Firth of Lorn has been an impassable barrier to travellers, but in 2002 walkers (and even cyclists) will be able to see Colonsay reinstated at the hub of the area, rather than out on a limb. Final details have still to be negotiated, but for a copy of the draft timetable please email Kevin and Christa Byrne. Even in draft, it will give a good idea of what is being planned, and your own comments or suggestions may help to make improvements.
Two suggestions have already been received. One permits a full day in Oban ... depart from Colonsay at 07.00hrs on a Friday and alight at Easdale to continue by minibus, reaching Oban by 09.30hrs; this gives a full day in Oban, before returning on the CalMac ferry at 18.00hrs. This service would run as often as required, but at first will be once per month (and on a neap tide); if weather is unsuitable it can be rolled back a week. Priority would go to people visiting Oban, but spare places could be used to allow people to be landed at the Garvellochs on the way up, to be collected an hour later on the way back.
The other suggestion is for the occasional daytrip to Islay, with a minibus up to Bowmore; this gives access to the swimming pool and to the Co-op store, plus the chance to socialise, have a bar lunch etc. Dates will be arranged to suit demand - again, any empty places could be used by people visiting the Museum of Islay Life, Finlaggann Loch etc.
The scheduled service will commence on Easter Saturday, but the boat herself will probably be in Colonsay by mid-November, after which she will be available for private hire in fair weather throughout the winter. The new owners will welcome the chance to get to use her, and will be glad to answer any queries.

CAVEAT EMPTOR
A new kettle was ordered for the manse in September, from Scottish Hydro-Electric, Oban. The kettle cost £20.00, but they sent it by carrier… the fee for carriage was an incredible £10.00
The actual bill issued by the Hydro was as bold as brass, totally unabashed. They baldly listed "Kettle £20.00; Freight £10.00; Total due: £30.00".
THE ENEMY WITHIN
As has already been reported, the Scottish Executive appointed consultants BURNESS, CORLETT & PARTNERS to report on the minimum criteria that must be incorporated into the tender documents when CalMac's services are offered for open competition. "Corncrake" predicted that Colonsay would (as usual) be ignored by the consultants, but it seems that on this occasion the SE has excelled itself.
At a meeting at Stonefield Castle Hotel this week, there was widespread representation of community groups throughout the west coast. The delegates were stunned to be informed that the alleged consultation process is already in full swing, in time for the submission of a report in late October. The speaker was a senior spokesman for CalMac, and absolutely nobody in the room had the foggiest idea what he was talking about. There were representatives of Islay, Jura, Arran, Bute, Mull, Colonsay, Iona and Tiree and none of them had even smelt a whiff of any form of consultation. It seems that the consultants, not content with trashing the customer base, have completely misled the existing operator as to their goings-on.
Fortunately, a "Deep Throat" has come to the rescue. The (28th Auugust) document which follows was received by email and, if authentic, suggests that BURNESS, CORLETT & PARTNERS are either consulting someone, somewhere, or (possibly) have produced this document in order to give the SE the impression that they are doing some consulting. As yet, a trawl throughout the western isles has produced no known case of any form of actual or promised consultation.
Respondent: - __________________ Date: __________
Representing: - _________________ Place: __________
Calmac User Groups-Services Enquiry Questionnaire
Introduction BCP.
Background/reasoning of overall exercise.
Discussion on fundamental principles as per Deliverable 9.1
Background to BCPs remit in respect of providing a Services
Specification
Questions to structure discussion, as below
Q1. Do you have a view on how the service specification should define Ministers' commitment to "protect levels of service." In specifying minimum standards, we could for example base these standards on:
Option X - preserving current service arrangements (routes, timetables etc) as they are operated by CalMac now, perhaps with the exception of some Out-of-Undertaking routes or some new sailings or where there is strong
local support for bidders to propose changes in the current delivery pattern
Option Y - protecting current service arrangements in terms of principles of provision (e.g. minimum frequencies) rather than operational specifics (e.g. precise timetabling requirements).
Any there any other options which the Executive should be considering to protect levels of service through the service specification?
Comments:
Q2. Do you have a view on how the service specification could define Ministers' commitment "to protect fares"?
[Option 1] To protect fares in real terms by linking to RPI and contractually preventing operators from raising prices except by prior agreement with the Executive. This fare protection would be applied on a route-by-route
basis.
[Option 2] To specify a 5-year maximum fares structure which would reflect further application of CalMac's CFARES policy in a way that would be revenue neutral, in real terms, across the network as a whole.
Under Option 2, the commitment to protect fares would be honoured at a network, rather than route, level: route fares (and increases in them) would be pitched at levels consistent with further application of the CFARES policy but in a way that was revenue neutral (in real terms) across the network. There are several ways in which this approach could be applied:
Option 2A - roll out the principles of CFARES throughout the contract period. This would involve setting out in the service specification detailed fares (in cash terms) for each route for each of the 5 years. These calculations together with an allowance for RPI would represent the maximum fares which any bidder would be allowed to apply to a particular route;
Option 2B - roll out the CFARES Review but only at the quinquennial point (ie at the outset of each 5 year contract). For the period of the contract relative fares would be frozen in real terms;
Do you have views on these options.? Are there any other options which the Executive should be considering to protect fares through the service specification?
Comments:
Q3. What kind of provision should be made in the service specification for encouraging and/or requiring integrated information exchange or integrated ticketing (e.g. with other ferry providers and/or other transport providers
in an agreed local zone)?
Comments:
Q4. What requirements should be laid out in the service specifications for the successful operator to engage in on-going consultation with ferry users?
Comments:
Q5. Where are the pressure points on the network? For example, are you aware of examples where vessels have sailed leaving customers behind?
Conversely, are there sailings which go significantly under capacity - ones, for example, where bidders might use a smaller ship giving scope for improvements overall?
Comments:
Q6. On the routes where Calmac competes against commercial operators, how does the competing service compare?
Comments:
Q7. Do you believe there is scope for service improvements without adversely affecting the subsidy paid by the Executive?
Comments:
Q8. What barriers are there to improvements in service provision and improved links with other transport providers (e.g. integrated timetables)? How can these be overcome?
Comments:
Q9. What changes, if any, would you like to see to the service provided? Why?
Areas of interest might include: onboard services (catering, safety, accessibility for disabled, seating, lounges) & service ethic of staff; onshore manpower, facilities & services (catering, crewing, parking, marshalling etc.);
reliability; punctuality; etc
Comments:
Q.10. Some CalMac ships welcome travellers aboard through the medium of Gaelic before safety announcements etc are issued in English and some current CalMac staff are familiar with Gaelic and the local culture, history and
tourist attractions of the localities served by the CalMac ferries. While the principle of non-discrimination is central to the forthcoming tendering process and it will not be possible to include requirements in the service specification that discriminate either directly or indirectly against other member states is there an argument for some knowledge of Gaelic etc?
Possibilities might include continued Gaelic announcements on some vessels, some knowledge of Gaelic among shore staff, and possibly some knowledge of Gaelic among seagoing staff on particular routes although this would need to be assessed against MCA regulations and EC procurement rules . Do you have views ?
Comments:
Q.11. Any other questions/comments/service improvement suggestions?
Comments:
BURNESS, CORLETT & PARTNERS Rev. Edition 4. 28/8/01
ADVERT: The bookshop now sells a wide selection of "talking books" on pre-recorded cassette or CD format; these make ideal presents and are perfect for long journeys or for people with eyesight problems. The shop will be delighted to obtain additional titles on request.
Bible sales are rising worldwide - please note that the bookshop stocks Am Bioball Gaidhlig in a beautifully bound and inexpensive edition; it is printed in a very clear typeface and really merits examination. Also in stock is Bioball na Cloinne, a children's version which is very clearly written and which would be enjoyed by adult learners as well as children. Do have a look at these books next time you are passing Port Mor.
WHAT'S ON IN COLONSAY
Due to refurbishment, The Hotel will be closed for meals and accommodation from 30 September until further notice. The Bar will be open as follows:
Monday - Saturday 12.00 - 14.30 and 19.00 - Late
Sunday 12.00 - 14.30 (closed at night).
The Pantry will be open for meals etc. throughout the winter. The winter opening hours are as follows:
Monday, Wednesday & Friday 10.00 - 14.00 hrs.
Saturdays 10.00 - 15.00 hrs.
Evening meals and take-away meals can be catered for by arrangement. To make such arrangements, telephone the Pantry on 01951 200325 or call May MacKinnon at home 0n 01951 200341
Quiz in the Hotel every Wednesday at 9.30 pm.
Church services every Sunday, alternating between the churches: 11 am at the Church of Scotland, Scalasaig, and 12 noon at the Baptist Church, Kilchattan. See shop notice to check venue.
Colonsay & Oronsay Artists - Entirely new Exhibition this year, open before every ferry, in the CalMac VIP Lounge at Pier.
Saturday 6th October: Colonsay Young Farmers' Club Annual Root and Grain Show in Village Hall. Shop forms are available at the shop, and any visitors who will be here for that weekend and who wish to enter items in the Show can get a form by telephoning Rhona on 01951 200303
Saturday 6th October: Young Farmers' Dinner Dance in Village Hall. Catering and licensed bar is being provided by Colonsay Hotel, with music provided by Hector and his band. Book your tickets now - telephone Rhona on 01951 200303
SNIPPETS
Mike Peacock is away to a tiny island in the Pacific, to study the Oven Bird (which lays its eggs in warm volcanic ash) - we hope to get an email in due course; Christa and Georgina have been in Kintyre at a conference about Heritage Appreciation; Diane Clark and Margaret Kiernen have been to an IaaO conference and Study Tour in Orkney; Hughie, Jenny and family left this week to visit Audrey and Stephen and family in Canada; where bracken has been killed, a second flush of violets and primroses is in full bloom; this year's crop of 750 healthy lambs left Colonsay on 30 September - sadly, because the French market is closed all of these lambs will have to be quite simply incinerated; our pictures show Clan Commander Sandy McPhie and Rev. Freda Marshall at the dedication of the new cairn, with Dun Eibhinn on the skyline:
NOOKS & CRANNIES - Lochan Gainmheach
There are only two lochans in Balavetchy, and they are in complete contrast. Lochan Clach (Little Stony Loch) is up on the hill, and Lochan Gainmheach (Little Sandy Loch) is just to the east of the track as it runs through the dunes. Being surrounded by that lime-rich environment, Lochan Gainmheach has quite an interesting flora and is well worth a visit. About 50 metres to the northeast is a circular mound, the remains of an artificial warren which was built for the convenience of Colonsay's first generation of rabbits in the 18th century.
OUT ON THE TOWN - Eeusk Fish Cafe
For many months there have been reports of a new and rather special seafood restaurant in Oban and at last these have been confirmed. Two readers have been in touch to recommend it, and one of them was good enough to obtain the menu. It is too lengthy to reproduce here in full, suffice to say that the speciality is seafood "impeccably fresh" and that the menu runs from Oban Chowder through local mussels, oysters and langoustine to fresh salmon, haddock, lemon sole and seabass. There is also a choice of steak or chicken for the piscatorially challenged, and the prices are well within reason.
"Everything from the bread right through to the coffee is perfect - low key, friendly, understated but at every turn utterly professional, just what Oban has needed for years." It is said that this is the same family as intends to redevelop the North Pier and create two new restaurants there - if so, "more power to their elbow" was our informant's comment.
Eeusk Fish Cafe is at 104 George Street, Oban, PA34 5NS. Reservations: 01631 565666 Incidentally, there is also an excellent coffee shop and (seriously good) sandwich bar around the corner, apparently called "F'eats".
OCTOBER SKIES
Winter is calling, dark nights are earlier, which means there is more time to observe the sky. October is a month when the constellations associated with wintertime are beginning to be more obvious in the later parts of the night.
By midnight in mid-month, Orion is climbing out of the eastern sky. Orion and his retinue are nearly back on view, the three "belt" stars rise steeply from the eastern, horizon followed by the glowing blue stars of the Pleiades and the constellation of Taurus with the bright orange star Aldebaran. (Aldebaran represents the glinting red eye of the Bull, charging at neighbouring Orion.)
Also this month will bring the Orionids meteor shower, peaking around October 21st., and if lucky you may see about 25 meteors per hour. The moon will be Full on the 2nd October. Happy star-gazing.
Irene Campbell
The Magazine Section
LATE NEWS:
3rd October, 1691: Treaty of Limerick, permitting William III to claim sovereignty of the three kingdoms.
12th October 1492: Columbus landed on San Salvador in the Bahama Isles. Although he did not "discover America, he had pursued a reasoned theory and was to maintain the lifelong belief that he had landed in India or China. In 1513, Balboa sorted it all out when he crossed the Darien Isthmus and discovered the Pacific.
14th October, 1066: Battle of Hastings.
15th October 1705: Parishioners of Colonsay were ordered to pay compensation to the Presbyterian minister in lieu of the manse and glebe, formally in Oransay, which had been appropriated by the new McNeill lairds. Colonsay (i.e. McNeill) managed to get the order suspended (whereupon it was forgotten for seventy years).
THE WESTERN GÀIDHEALTACHD AFTER THE STATUTES OF IONA 1609
Some weeks ago, distinguished highland historian and broadcaster Domhnall Uilleam Stiubhart
was in Colonsay in connection with a Gaelic project at the school; in subsequent correspondence he was kind enough to furnish the text of "a wee speech" that he had delivered earlier this year to the Scottish History Department at Edinburgh University. It includes some very interesting perspectives and deals very precisely with the period at which Clan MacPhee and Clan Donald of the South were coming to terms with a changing order. Dr. Stiubhart has very kindly agreed to allow his speech to be reproduced here, and it will appear in four parts over the coming issues of "The Corncrake". It is possible that some terms or issues will require clarification… if so, readers are invited to contact the Editor and some attempt will be made to reply in the next issue. For convenience, overseas readers might like to think of "The Western Gàidhealtachd" as comprising the Gaelic-speaking "West Highlands and Islands".
PART I of IV
First of all, I should admit just how much this speech is indebted to recent historical work, above all the broad longer-term perspectives on the Gàidhealtachd offered to us by Robert Dodgshon and Allan I. Macinnes, and the more specific studies on the region during the reign of James VI by Michael Lynch and Julian Goodare. A couple of years back it certainly made my day to read Julian Goodare's article about the context of the Statutes of Iona. This represented a major step forward in a historiography which all too often is contented enough to consider the panoramic themes of Highland history without taking the trouble to examine either the wider geographical context, or the specific historical one.
What I'd like to do here, then, is to try to take a couple of stumbling steps forward on from these pioneering works and examine the aftermath of what we might call the apparent bringing of the chiefs to heel by the Edinburgh authorities, a process of submission, we might say, which worked out from 1608 to 1610. I'd like to look at how the various parties involved, both Gael and Lowlander, felt their way towards a rather uneasy co-existenc, and also at how these parties were affected by and responded to a number of apparently crucial events.
Most of this speech will be taken up with the 1610s and the 1620s, as I'm rather uneasy about getting too caught up with the years immediately preceding the War of the Three Kingdoms. The 1630s, as we all know, is a decade when a large number of controversial imponderables raise their ugly heads. I should stress that I have no expertise whatsoever in contemporary political, legal, ecclesiastical or financial matters - this is merely a few scraps tossed in the direction of those wiser and better-educated than myself.
In 1608 an official expedition was launched under the command of Lord Ochiltree, whose primary aim was to overawe, to disarm, and to enforce obedience upon the MacDonalds of Islay, Clann Iain Mhóir, and the MacLeans of Duart, the two principal island clans on what Professor Lynch has called the invisible western frontier of Scotland, facing the Gaels of Ulster. According to a chronicle edited by John W. Mackenzie for the Maitland Club in 1830, Andrew Knox, bishop of the Isles, who accompanied the expedition, invited the island chiefs on board the ship Moon, then lying off Àros in the island of Mull, to listen to a sermon. No sooner than they arrived than they were arrested and the expedition sailed back to the Lowlands with its catch.
The gambit of capturing the chiefs in this way was not a new one: James V had used much the same trick in 1428, and it had most recently been employed in Edinburgh in 1590. However, it is clear from a letter written by the bishop that it was very much a spur-of-the-moment idea, and, after its success, he wasn't entirely clear what to do with his haul. Indeed, Knox writes to the king offering his resignation as bishop, pleading infirmities of age - somewhat prematurely, considering he lived for a further 24 years - and, more appositely, because "my credeit amagis thir folkis, be the form of this last actioun practischit amangis tham, [is] sumwhat (as apperis) deminischit". The chiefs were kept imprisoned in castles in the Lowlands during the winter. In July 1609, following discussions between Knox and the king in London, a survey and negotiating commission was launched, under the bishop. Accompanied by the chiefs, but without the comptroller for crown lands, Knox journeyed to Iona, where, on the 23 August, he held a court of justiciary. There the chiefs were made to swear -supposedly upon the sacred black stones of Iona - to enact the series of regulations later known as the Statutes of Iona.
In his article Dr Goodare makes a plausible and even quite heroic attempt to downgrade the Statutes of Iona. It's difficult not to agree with him that they tended to be ignored by contemporaries, who one imagines would have been more interested in the immediate gains promised by the financial survey the commission didn't carry out, rather than Knox's Statutes which were directed in the long-term at moderating and taming the physical and ideological power of clanship. Knox, a mere minister of Paisley before his elevation to the bishopric, doesn't appear to have been too popular with his magnate contemporaries - in the letter quoted above, he also makes great play of the "synisterous reporters of our procedings of which diuerse perhaps may be presentit to your Maiesteis sacred eares". There is nothing about the Statutes in contemporary or near-contemporary histories.
Gaelic tradition also has little to say about the Statutes - there is an Iomaire nan Achd ["Ridges or lazy-beds of the Acts"? - Ed] in Iona, north of the abbey, supposedly the field where the chiefs are said to have pitched their tents for the court of justiciary. However, rather suspiciously, the first mention of this placename in connection with the Statutes, as far as I'm aware, is in 1837. This is the year following the publication of Donald Gregory's great history of the late mediaeval Highlands in which the Statutes are first given prominence. In one version of a waulking song composed by a woman of the MacLeods of Harris, mention is made of how, unlike their own MacLeod chief Ruairidh Mór, Domhnall Gorm Mór, the chief of their great rivals the MacDonalds of Sleat, was captured by the Lowlanders. Again, the poet Niall MacMhuirich's jeu d'ésprit on the marriage of Ruairidh Mór MacLeod's daughter to the young Clan Ranald heir Iain Mùideartach, Sé hoidhche dhamhsa san dún, makes historical sense if we read its references to the chief's extreme generosity with drink in the context of the demands for sobriety promulgated in the Statutes. But, apart from a single mysterious and deliberately obscure possible reference to them in a stanza of an Ciaran Mabach's lament for his brother Seumas Bàn MacDonald in the 1670s, the record of oral tradition appears to be silent about the Statutes themselves.
In the absence of the comptroller, Sir James Hay of Kingask, who was to head the expedition, Knox may not have felt properly qualified to carry out a financial survey. In his own earlier commission, James VI had stressed his primary aims were "the planting of the gospell amang these rude, barbarous, and uncivill people", and "to remove all such scandalous reprotcheis aganis that state in sufferring a parte of it to be possessed with such wylde savageis, voyde of Godis fear and our obedyence". The subjects dealt with in the statutes the chiefs signed - and the fact that they signed them at Iona - demonstrates that the bishop was not unversed in Gaelic culture. Nor did the bishop's career end in disgrace - some two years later, doubtless because of what the king saw as his prior success in dealing with the island chiefs, he added the diocese of Raphoe in Ulster, on the other side of that invisible frontier, to the bishopric of the isles.
We may not want to stress the 1609 Statutes as much as some previous historians. We should rather consider them as part of a two-year process - in the spring of 1610, doubtless after consultation among themselves, noting the defeat of Clann Iain Mhóir and their dispossession from Kintyre and Islay, as well as taking careful note of the defeat of Cathair Ó Dochartaigh's rising in Ulster, the chiefs chose the path of submission. At the end of June an official meeting was arranged. Given the inequality between the parties, it is a moot point whether this should be exactly dignified with the title of "conference". Nevertheless, with the regular yearly visits of the chiefs being instituted from 1610, a new era had begun.
Two aspects of recent work on the Gàidhealtachd during this period deserve to be stressed. First of all, the emphasis on the ad-hoc nature of official policy towards the western Gàidhealtachd - that far from depending upon one consistent strategy, the authorities in Edinburgh had a repertoire of policies for the region which they would employ as events and, just as importantly, their perceptions of events, would dictate. The political history of the islands during the 1610s and 1620s can thus be rather confusing, and I hope that my own words don't make it more so.
Secondly, I'd like to turn to Dr Goodare's remarks about the dual persona which chiefs had to adopt: "they continued to be Highland chiefs, but they also came to see the value of cultivating a second identity as British gentlemen". In keeping with the viewpoint I've so far adopted, I wouldn't lay the same amount of stress as he does upon "the good grace" with which the chiefs accepted the changes, but such a perspective leads us on to what I.F. Grant, in her compendious history of the MacLeods of Dunvegan, describes as the "astute eyewash" of a good deal of the "apparent submissiveness" of the chief Ruairidh Mór in front of the Edinburgh authorities. We might extend this one step further to arrive at the anti-heroism of what Paul Hopkins describes as "a cynical Highland tradition which, although leaving few traces compared to the heroic tradition it counterbalanced, was often more influential." The crux of the matter is that, under the new dispensation, island chiefs had to adopt a submissive attitude to the powerful authorities, while maintaining an entirely different, native persona for their clansmen. This is of course not too distant from the artful strategies which recusant families in the Lowlands, England, or in Ireland had to follow - and, as we shall see, many of the chiefs themselves were to fall under the influence of Counter-Reformation Catholicism. Perhaps the crucial difference is that Scottish Gaels were conscious that they had not been conquered by force of arms. Apart from a small section of Kintyre, all attempts at plantation had failed; there were no strangers in their midst. The chiefs therefore had considerable difficulty in having to maintain among their own tenantry at least the pretence of freewill and independent action. This should always be borne in mind when we look at how the chiefs came to deal with the new political order during the 1610s.
It's to the Mackenzies I'd like to turn first of all. Employing an astute mixture of legal skills and outright force, later cemented by a string of marriage alliances, while pursuing a general strategy of cooperation with the Edinburgh authorities, the Mackenzies had over the past two generations displaced Clan Donald and Clan MacLeod, as well as a number of minor families, from wester Ross. The clan had also been engaged in a struggle to take over the territories on both sides of the northern Minch possessed by the MacLeods of Lewis, Sìol Torcail ["Descendants of Torquil"? - Ed]. This had finally borne fruit with the granting of the island to the chief of the Mackenzies, Coinneach, lord Kintail, in July 1610. After the chief's death the following year, the estate passed to his son Cailean Ruadh, but as he was only fourteen at the time, authority over the clan was mainly exercised by Ruairidh na Còigich, known to tradition as the tutor of Kintail. He was the brother of Coinneach and married to Mairghread, daughter and heiress of Torcail Conanach who had been the Mackenzies' candidate as heir to the MacLeods of Lewis. From his wife Ruairidh acquired the estate of Còigeach, and, he evidently believed, the right to the island of Lewis itself. A mediator in feuds, a preserver of struggling families, and, needless to say, a zealous benefactor of both his clan and himself, Ruairidh na Còigich was able to fashion the island clans into a bloc the better to resist any further encroachments by the authorities, and more specifically of the earl of Argyll who to some extent at least had hitherto filled the role of policeman for the Edinburgh authorities. A crucial factor in this, although concrete evidence is hard to come by, must have been the marriage of Cailean Ruadh, the young chief, to the daughter of Alexander Seton, Chancellor Dunfermline, perhaps the dominant political figure in the Lowlands at the time, in 1614.
The long wars of the later sixteenth century had left the finances of the Mackenzies in a very poor state. Further territorial expansion was not an option, and Ruairidh na Còigich quickly moved to make peace with their long-standing enemies the MacDonalds of Glengarry. Any remaining MacLeod resistance on Lewis [was met] by a scorched-earth policy which meant that the tutor of Kintail has remained a byword for cruelty in the island down to the present day, in the proverb Chan eil ann ach dà rud nas miosa na Taoidhtear Chinntàile: reòthadh Chéitein agus ceò 's an Iuchar: the only two things worse than the Tutor of Kintail are frost in May and fog in July. Policies of plantation in the Gàidhealtachd, it should be pointed out, was no longer a realistic option given that far more fertile and appealing territories in Ulster were now open for exploitation.
In 1614 the region was briefly set alight by a rising in Islay led by two sons of the old chief of Clann Iain Mhóir. The following year Sir Seumas MacDhòmhnaill, the actual heir of Clann Iain Mhóir, escaped from Edinburgh Castle where he had been held on a death sentence for the past six years. He briefly held Islay, before being forced into exile. [This was the crucial episode which led to the demise of Clan MacPhee - Ed.] The island was sold to Sir John Campbell of Cawdor. I'm not going to get involved in explaining the rather labyrinthine complexities of these episodes, except to say that they gave the authorities a great fright, the more so because the rebels received widespread covert and even open support among other island clans, and also because the revolt was apparently timed to coincide with the outbreak of a simultaneous rising in Ulster. As a result, a whole series of new statutes were promulgated, considerably harsher, even somewhat hysterical, in tone. The most important effect of these statutes was that the chiefs now had to go caution for each other, as well as for the chief gentry, the daoin'-uaisle, of their estates. The episode had also demonstrated the nervousness of the authorities about any possible further uprisings in the region, the more so given the chronic undermilitarization of Lowland society. Bearing the trouble among Clann Iain Mhóir in mind, it's worth now turning to their northern neighbours, the MacLeans of Duart, and how the tutor of Kintail - at least temporarily - saved the clan from expropriation.
To be continued ...
NATIVE WOODLAND:
The Editor would welcome a short article on the nature conservation programme which is clearly in full swing all around us and which is already having significant results. From time to time there have been brief reports in these pages, based merely upon observation of new fences, bracken eradication, creation of sanctuaries etc., but it would be good to know more.
Some projects have not been mentioned here because they have obviously been conceived for at the protection of especially sensitive species, but it is probably safe enough to mention the extensive work which has been undertaken at A' Choille Bheag. This area of ancient native woodland has been in terminal decline for thirty years or more and is badly degraded by bracken infestation; regeneration was impossible due to pressure from grazing stock. The area has recently been fenced to exclude domestic livestock and it seems that some areas have been sprayed to combat the bracken; it is heartening to see the effects.
Where bracken has been controlled, there are thick carpets of new vegetation. Primroses, Violets and Bugle are all in full flower in late September, in the unusual company of blooming heather and Devil's Bit Scabious. Mint, wood sorrel and woodsage are all producing new spring-like foliage and the air is highly scented. The strangest aspect is that, due to the exclusion of sheep and cattle, spiders have come into their own - to walk through the woods is like walking into the Palace of the Sleeping Beauty. It is hard to pick one's way between the magnificent webs which are stretched between the trees - some of them are over 5 metres in breadth, and surprisingly strong. The spiders themselves are thriving - some of them are almost as big as a mouse.
One hopes that this project comes to full fruition. Already, the first year's birch plants have broken out above the undergrowth and seem to be extremely vigourous. The pictures show an established copse at Asgaill Duin Duibh on the left and new growth in the closer view.

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Readers Write
NOTICE:
In future, and for the convenience of readers, any correspondence relating to current events will hopefully be found in the first part of the Letters page, and items in connection with history, genealogy etc. will be further down.
I have not given the names of the first two correspondents as these letters are almost personal; they are amongst quite a number of messages received. Both churches in Colonsay and doubtless many private individuals remember those afflicted by terrorism in their daily thoughts and prayers - Editor
I'm pleased--relieved, even--that you went ahead with putting out the
recent issue. It is somehow a reminder of what really is important in
our lives: as you say, the small but good things that help keep us all
"on track." [Our community] lost two in the carnage, a stewardess & a business
traveller, and we are all much saddened. We are all surely going to be
changed by this, I hope for the better.
For me though, one thing will not change. I'd booked a flight for a two
week holiday to be with old friends in London over Christmas; I have no
intention of changing plans. Do wish I could get to Colonsay, but I'm a
terrible sailor & doubt there's any other way to get there. But, at very
least, I'll be thinking of you all.
... thank you for the lovely message in the Corn Crake regarding our shared tragedy perpetrated by terrorists. And thank you all for your prayers. How ironic that Cromwell's evil deed was on the same date 352 years ago.
... it will be terrible to see further innocent lives lost, and I am also unable to see the way forward. I am praying that with all of the world wide support offered, these murderers can be financially ruined and drug out of their holes without having to put other lives in danger. Most of the world is praying together, so perhaps the best will happen.
Sir:
I am seeking information about Charles McPhie (born about 1747 at Islay, Argyleshire, Scotland. He had a son, Alexander (born 1769 at Islay) who had a son, John (born 18 May, 1809 at Parkhead, Barony, Lanarkshire Scotland.) I appreciate any iformation you might send. Thank you.
Sincerely, John D. McPhie
from: Dr. Donald C. McWhannell.
Ref. Mc'IlleChonaill, Mac Ghille Chonaill, and Mac a'Ghille Chonallaich, "the son of St. Conall's lad , and the son of the lad who was one of St. Conall's lads"
May I suggest that Chris and Elizabeth consult the following articles.
(i) "Mac Neill of Carskey, his estate journal" ed. Frank Forbes MacKay pub. Edinburgh 1955
(ii) "Family Origins in Kintyre and Knapdale" by W.D.H. Sellar , Scottish Studies, XV, 1971.
(iii) Kintyre Rentals (S.R.O. etc.)
(iv) Records of Kintyre of 1636, transcribed by Mr. A.I.B. Stewart in 1953 ( contact Kintyre Hist. Soc. , Campbeltown)
(v) S.W.H.I.H.R. "Notes & Queries" Series 3, Vol. 1 also Series 2 , No 19 ( but ignore the proposal that Colanus MacGilcungal , circa 1230, was related to a Lesmahagow kindred, he was a witness for Ferchar Mac an t-Saggart and may have joined his service directly from Galloway)
(vi) "The Scottish Genealogist", Vol XLIV , No.1 , March 1997 also Vol. XLV , No. 1 , and Vol XLV No..3 and No. 4
(vii) S.W.H.I.H.R. "Notes and Queries" July 1995 Series 2 No. 14
The earliest proven record of a Mac Gille Chonaill in Kintyre that I know of is for 1631 "tack by James (Campbell) , Lord of Kintyre, in favour of Donnald Makgilechonille and his heirs male etc. for the 8s-4d land lying in the lordship and barony of south Kintyre for the space of nine years etc.". This is in the "Argyll Transcripts".
The Kintyre "Conallaich" appear to have been living on or close to MacNeill of Carskey's land. In 1636 a Mac Gilleconill was "tacksman of the Mull" with 4 merklands and there was a Ballemacgilconnell (various spellings) close to the Mull near today's lighthouse.
It is important to stick to historical documents of good provenance and to take great care although some oral history is of value. Some MacNeills in Kintyre may have been "Conallaich" because they were fostered in Tir Conaill in Ireland ! The MacGilleChonaills who provided shipbuilders , servitors and a chaplain to the Campbells of Argyll and Breadalbane may or may not be related to the Kintyre group . The Argyll kindred of this name may or may not have their origins in Galloway. I look forward to hearing of any useful information that may help locate the origins of the "Clann Mhic Gille Chonaill" !
Yours sincerely, Dr. Donald C. McWhannell
From: Chris&Elisabeth Amos [mailto:amos@eagle.ca]
Subject: Amos' of Colonsay
Dear Kevin:
Thank you for your note earlier and reference to the book "The Amos Family
of Scotland and Prince Edward Island". I haven't purchased a copy yet but am
looking forward to the opportunity. If there are any Amos' who continue to
live on Colonsay I would be pleased to discuss any family history with them.
In regards to my earlier inquiry about the Conley family; I have received
new information about their arrival in Canada and events relating to the
establishment of their farm just south of Orangeville - an Ontario town
situated on the border of Peel County and Wellington County, ie. mentioned
in your last issue of the Corncrake.
According to our information it seems very probable that "our" Conleys may
have been a sept of Clan MacNeill of Colonsay who probably "returned" to
Islay from the Mull of Kintyre sometime during the late 1700's.
Yesterday I and several others met with members of the Conley family at
their home in Caledon Township, a little southwest of Orangeville, Ontario,
and they told us that the Conleys came to the present location of their farm
in 1826. Three hundred acres were purchased in blocks of 100 acres each,
adjacent each other, and much later a fourth block of 100 acres, adjacent to
the others, was purchased (300 acres of the original farm are still owned by
various members of the Conley family). The story told by the family is that
an Alexander Conley came to Canada with his brother Archibald and that they
purchased land, and spent the next 10 years developing the family farm until
they could send for their families in 1836 or 1837. According to the story;
Alexander had 4 children in Scotland and 5 more after his wife arrived in
Canada.
According to our research; the essential elements of this story may be
correct but some of the details appear to have suffered some rearrangement.
The Alexander Conley in question was born in 1811 and would been only 15
years old and his brother Archibald only 13 years old when they arrived in
Canada. It seems therefore that the two brothers must have arrived in
Canada with their father Donald Sr.; that the 4 children mentioned must have
been the 4 eldest siblings who remained in Scotland when the rest of the
family emigrated to Canada in 1836/37 and that the 5 supposedly born in
Canada were probably those younger siblings who came to Canada with their
parents (we only have records for three of these five. The remaining two
would likely have been a daughter Catherine b. abt 1815 and the other may
have been a James, perhaps born abt 1819 who fits the description of a James
discovered in Ontario records). Our records show marriages for Alexander
and Archibald as occuring in Scotland but according to this latest
information, that data is probably incorrect. It seems more likely that
these brothers probably married Mary Currie and Euphemia MacDougall in
Canada, possibly arriving at or about the same time as Donald Conley's wife
Katherine nee Shaw and younger siblings in 1836/37. Donald Sr. and Katherine
died in 1851 and 1851/54 and are buried in Alton Cemetery. Donald's
gravestone reads "Native of Argyleshire North Brittian".
The Agricultural Census of 1861, Township of Caledon, County of Peel, Upper
Canada (Canada West), shows that Alexander, Archibald, and younger brother
Donald, each owned 100 acres of land at that time. Together they had 170
acres of land under cultivation, 78 acres in pasture, and 130 acres of
woods; the total value of the 3 farms was $8400. Principle crops they grew
included spring wheat, peas, oats, and potatoes. Livestock is not mentioned
(on the portion of the Ag. Census which I have) but it seems likely that
cattle, horses, and other usual farm livestock would have been owned. In
1873-75 new farm buildings were built on Alexander's portion of the farm, to
replace earlier log structures, and the new barn (still in use) contained
facilities for livestock. The present generation of the Conley family, who
operate the farm, raise beef cattle and seem to prefer hereford and black
angus cattle (they have a real dandy 2 year old angus bull who produces
excellent calves). The farm is well run, very tidy, and includes a brick
home with a very pretty lawn, gardens, and trees around the house. During
our visit; Jim Conley showed us the hogshead whiskey barrel (about 40 inches
in diameter & 42 inches high) that Catherine nee Shaw Conley packed bedding,
pillows, clothing, etc. into for the voyage to Canada in 1836/37. The farm
is located about 30 miles north of Lake Ontario so they and all of their
belongings would have had to be transported by horse and wagon from Port
Credit (west of Toronto) since there was no railway at the time. The St.
Lawrence Seaway was not built by that time either, so (C)Katherine and her
young children must have landed in Montreal initially, transported their
belongings and themselves (probably) to Brockville near the head of Lake
Ontario, and then again aboard ship to Port Credit (since there were no
roads in that part of Upper Canada suitable for use by a wagon capable of
handling a hogshead whiskey barrel full of personal belongings).
Dear Editor:
I was delighted this morning to discover that you have quoted one
of my e-mails about Baptist minister Dugald SINCLAIR in Corncrake at http://www.colonsay.org.uk/corncrake/old1/cornb33.html
Unfortuately, your on-line link to my web page about Sinclair does not
work, but this is simply due to an extra "." at the very end of the URL.
Please remove the "." in the HTML file, and the link will work fine.
[Have done this now - sorry, Editor]
Then you and others can see something about the extraordinary career of
this man who regularly visited Colonsay from 1814 to 1831 but then moved
to Canada, became a "Disciples" minister about 1850, and continued to
preach until his death in 1870.
Your brief introduction to the quote from my e-mail says that I am
researching Sinclair. This is true enough. But the REAL Sinclair
researcher, at least insofar as the Scottish portion of his career is
concerned, is Prof. Donad E Meek at the University of Aberdeen.
PS: I am writing from Seattle, Washington. While driving here from
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, I stopped August 19 in Komoka near London,
Ontario, in order to meet Daphne Margaret SINCLAIR Bolton, a 2x great
grandaughter of Dugald Sinclair, and her daughter Penny Victoria BOLTON
Galbraith. Penny and her husband Gordon recently bought a home in the
nearby small town of Popular Hill, Lobo Township, Ontario, where Dugald
Sinclair (and many other Scots) lived and are buried.
Best Regards from Edward W. (Ted) LOLLIS
Home page http://www.GeoVisualBusinessMaps.com/lollis.htm
1540 Fieldwood Road, Southampton, PA 18966-4501, USA
E-mail MailTo:GeoVis@erols.com
We will be happy to receive more letters and, as always, the editor would like to hear from anyone who might wish to contribute. Individual articles on news or local events will always be welcome.
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