HAPPY ANNIVERSARY



Donald and Kirsty MacAllister celebrate their
20th Wedding Anniversary
on May 6th

Congratulations and best wishes from
Donald, Steven, Angus and Jenn


MATTHEW GONSHAW, CONVICT

Mathew Gonshaw was sentenced to three months in jail for a catalogue of crimes including the theft of Chough eggs from Colonsay. No doubt he will be delighted with himself - it seems little enough penalty for a premeditated crime which may have cost this island very dear. It is important to note that Gonshaw was made welcome in Colonsay and that nobody noticed his criminal activity at the time. Although the crime was eventually suspected, it was only the evidence of his diaries which gave him away. Mike Foulton kindly recorded a TV news report about the case, which will be archived here - it is available on loan from the Editor.

The resultant case has told the world that Colonsay is a soft touch, and the sentence has made it clear that a more successful criminal stood to make a lot of money from such theft. The evidence has identified both a species and a specific location which are therefore at increased risk. This year's hatch should be complete before Gonshaw himself is at large, but there is a genuine danger of copy-cat crime. Readers are reminded that it is an offence to disturb nesting birds and that any authorised persons will be able to identify themselves.

If anything suspicious is observed, notify the police immediately. Meanwhile, the suspect should be kept within view - there is no need to conceal yourself, just behave normally. Do not be tempted to take any risk - as long as you are in sight, even at a distance of 500 metres, the potential thief will be deterred. There is no need to ask any questions - the police will make arrangements to do this. If you have a mobile phone you may be able to stay in touch with the authorities.

Although this is not the first conviction for theft in Colonsay, the sentence is comparatively light. "John Mitchell, late gardner in Collonsay … in the month of May [1717] yow being the servant with Malcom McNeill of Collonsay did notwithstanding of the trust reposed in yow steall from him ane waterside board for dressing of leather which he thereafter took away from yow." On 24 December 1718 John Mitchell was sentenced at Inveraray "to be transported to His Majesties plantations in America … and his whole moveables to be escheat…"




COMPUTERS FOR ALL

A total of thirteen islands are to gain by the Digital Communities project, including Colonsay and Oronsay, to which £1.75 million has been allocated. Every home is to receive identical equipment - to be eligible, you merely have to be resident on Mull, Iona, Seil, luing, Kerrera, Gometra, ulva, Colonsay, Oronsay, Tiree, Coll, Easdale or Lismore.

The equipment will be delivered and physically installed for each household and ab initio training will be provided - there will be no problems for any recipient, and additional training and support will be available as required. An expert Helpline will be available and in addition local, more informal assistance will be provided within each community.

The package is based upon a Compaq Evo Desktop D300v Microtower Personal Computer with Intel Celeron 1.3GHz Processor. This comes complete with one year warranty, a surge suppressor power bar and a web-cam. The software package comprises Windows XP Home, Microsoft Works 2002 (including MS Word 2002, MS Encarta Reference 2002. MS Autoroute 2002, MS Money 2002 and MC Picture IT), Internet Explorer 6 and Norton Internet Security.

A printer is also provided - an Epson Stylus C40UK colour inkjet, plus a pack of printer paper.

Internet access is to be via Freeserve, giving un-metered Internet Service Provision, 24 hours a day, including call costs. All costs are paid for the first year. Support, installation and a wide range of training opportunities are all included. It is likely that users in Colonsay will find themselves fully on-line before the end of the summer.


FREIGHT UNLOADING

At a recent Community Council meeting, it was agreed that (on an experimental basis) the domestic freight delivery should go directly to the shop/post office so that bread, milk, newspapers and Royal Mails could be unloaded without delay. Immediately afterwards, the van would be returned to the CalMac carpark, by which time the departing vehicles would have boarded the ferry and marshalling operations would be complete. (It should be borne in mind that it is an existing condition of use that no freight vehicle be discharged in the marshalling area until the departing ferry has actually put to sea).

This decision of the Community Council has caused some concern. County Councillor Robin Currie is said to have involved himself in some manner, and curious allegations are in widespread circulation. Two members of the public have requested a public referendum upon the matter and the next Community Council meeting (May 5th) will debate their request. Since this amounts to a motion of no-confidence in the existing Community Council, it must be hoped that councillors will take the appropriate steps if their original decision is overturned. If it is upheld, one must assume that Cllr. Currie will consider his own position. Watch this space!


FAIR FREIGHT CAMPAIGN

A working party is addressing the whole question of freight charges. Representatives of various interests have already come forward (consumers, tourism, agriculture, construction, retail, manufacturing/distribution) and will welcome additional assistance. Anybody who wishes to become involved, or who wishes to ensure that a particular point is covered, should contact Alex Howard.

It is important that we establish basic principles and any reader with specific knowledge or expertise is invited to contact the Editor. In particular, it would be helpful to have guidance on the Human Rights aspect - is it perfectly acceptable for a government to discriminate against a minority group within its borders? Does any reader have knowledge of policy and practice as affecting other remote communities (the Falklands, Tristan da Cunha, St. Helena etc.)? Very possibly this is a dead end, but it would be useful to know this before time and resources are devoted to any exploration. Please note that confidentiality can be assured and that the Editor has no problem in accepting correspondence on this topic from anonymous sources. Any such information will be passed to the working party for assessment.

Islanders are reminded that the intrepid SE Rural Affairs Committee members will be here for a daytrip some Wednesday this month. They will no doubt speak of taking evidence for their subsequent report, and it would be helpful to give them physical copies of actual bills. The cost of a concrete block or a tonne of coal or tarry chips excluding and including freight might give them pause for thought; the £350 call-out fee for the annual CORGI inspection, the cost of sending a car for an MOT, the cost of two days in Oban to obtain a photo to apply for a driving licence ... real examples might bring it home to them. Maybe.


FLAMING APRIL

Friends and neighbours were sorry to hear of two recent chimney fires, knowing how upsetting they can be. Dorothy MacArthur's was of modest proportions, but Margaret Walker's got a pretty good hold and was apparently highly impressive, a jet of flames and sparks shooting into the sky. Colonsay Fire Brigade was quickly at the scene of each incident and the fires were extinguished with a minimum of collateral damage.

Both chimneys were in good condition - very possibly the damp weather and rather smoky coal have combined to increase soot deposits this winter. It might be a good idea for householders to check the condition of their own lum - an uncontrolled chimney fire could cause a lot of damage if the occupant was out or asleep.


Colasa - Sounds of an island

Advance information has been received about a brand-new CD with 68 minutes of authentic Colonsay sounds. The recordings were made on many visits to Colonsay over the last 10 years in binaural stereo by Roger Boughton, provider of natural sounds for film, television, radio and even computer games.

1. Ardskenish slack.    7'28''
2. Machrins terns.    2'00''
3. Squall on the strand.     9'43''
4. Woodland dawn chorus.     6'04''
5. Glen of the Temple.     8'03''
6. Port Mhor corncrake     1'37''
7. Kilchatten Sedge Warbler     9'38''
8. Loch Fada dawn.     3'41''
9. Uragaig cliffs.     9'10''
10. Colonsay Garden Blackbird.     4'36''
11. Balnahard waves.     5'21''

No spoken word or music has been added…. this is Colonsay as it is and as it was, and will hopefully be valued by descendants of Colonsay emigrants as well as by those who know and love Colonsay today.

Design by Duncan Boughton. Photography by Hugh, Fraser and Roger Boughton. Recording and editing by Roger Boughton. Published by Wildlife Sound Productions.

Roger has been recording the sounds of nature for over 25 years. His award winning recordings have been used in films, television, radio and even computer games. This new CD allows him to fulfil a long awaited promise to let people experience some of the wonderful soundscapes of this magical island. The CD will be available shortly at £12.00 retail plus post and packing - order now from Colonsay Bookshop.


ENERGY SAVING

Hot water tank jackets are available now, free of charge. (It is believed that one in ten tanks still need a jacket. A survey found five bare tanks recently on Gigha.)

The jackets are for homes only, so no self catering. In order to ascertain demand, a letter with a reply paid card will soon be sent to each permanent household. The organiser, Steven Watson, will ask anyone who needs one to respond, and he will then deliver them personally or via MacLennan's.

Look out for the letters within the next fortnight, and please respond promptly to:

Steven Watson
Argyll, Lomond and the Islands Energy Agency
Kilbowie House
OBAN
PA34 4PF
01631 562125
www.argyll-bute.gov.uk/alienergy/



CAN YOU HELP?

I have recently started to carry out some research on the individuals listed on the War Memorial in Scalasaig who died during The Great War, 1914-18 and in the Second War, 1939-45. My ultimate aim to produce a small information booklet, outlining of the lives and war records of these men from Colonsay. The Commonwealth War Graves Web site has provided some basic information as has the 1901 census. I am now awaiting replies to letters I have written to the various regimental museums who will provide more details from the War Diaries and Regimental histories.

If anyone has any information such as biographical details, photographs or anything that would help with this project, I would be most grateful if you would contact me -

Alan Davis,
17, Gosforth Terrace,
South Gosforth,
Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
NE3 1RT.
Telephone 0191 2853014
E-mail ajdavis17@hotmail.com

Note: Pte J McLellan was born at Scalasaig Farm, but his family removed to Cairn Baan whilst he was an infant. When he enlisted at Kilmartin, he gave his current address as Glen Friel; can any reader identify this placename? Enquiries in Kilmartin have drawn a blank so far.


RECENT PUBLIC-AGENCY GRANTS

Argyll and the Islands Enterprise has published a list of recent grants, and it is good to see that projects in Colonsay are well represented - indeed, the largest award within the area went to assist improvements at Colonsay Hotel.

The full list is quite extensive and therefore a link has been provided to the actual document.

ARGYLL & THE ISLANDS ENTERPRISE

It really is worthwhile to study the full list - just see what has been achieved at Port Ellen, for example. The following is a brief extract, listing Colonsay's projects. To put it into context, it might be useful to obtain details for the previous year.



ARGYLL & THE ISLANDS ENTERPRISE

The following are the funds approved between April 2001 and January 2002 NORTH ARGYLL & THE ATLANTIC ISLANDS area. Approval simply means that AIE funds have been made available, but does not guarantee that the project or activity will go ahead. The funds will not be released until the applicant produces evidence that the project has gone ahead.

GROWING BUSINESSES

CAPITAL INVESTMENT PROGRAMME is the financial assistance provided, normally by way of grant, to stimulate new business projects or expansions. 17 businesses which expect to invest a total of £864,500 from their own resources in setting up or expanding their operation had assistance totalling £326,000 with the prospect of 34.5 jobs created or retained. The jobs created or retained figure is forecast, agreed between AIE and the business concerned, of the jobs created or retained as a result of the AIE investment.

Business development

Total cost

Assistance approved

Donald Howard, Isle of Colonsay

£80,000

£24,000

Upgrade 12 self catering cottages

   

K & C Byrne, Colonsay

£56,500

£15,300

Purchase charter vessel

   

Christine Bailey, Isle of Colonsay

£320,000

£115,200

Improvements to hotel accommodation

   

HIE STANDARDS – additional EU monies aimed at upgrading visitor accommodation.

Project

Total cost

Assistance approved

Donald Howard, Isle of Colonsay

£80,000

£16,000

Upgrade 12 self catering cottages

   

Christine Bailey, Isle of Colonsay

£320,000

£44,800

Improvements to hotel accommodation

   

HIE ACTIVITY – additional EU monies aimed at assisting visitor attractions.

Project

Total cost

Assistance approved

K & C Byrne, Colonsay

£56,500

£13,000

Purchase of charter vessel

   

 

HIE STARTS – Programme of assistance to eligible individuals starting a new business. Support is provided in a number of ways including business advice, business planning, business start-up workshops and financial support. 46 individuals have been awarded fortnightly allowances amounting to a maximum of £3,000 paid over an average period of 48 weeks. 60% of funding comes from the AIE budget and 40% from the European Regional Development Fund.

Applicant

Business

Total Allowance

Isabel Robertson, Colonsay

Tides Seafood, seafood caterers

£1,500

Jennyfer McNeill, Colonsay

Tides Seafood, seafood caterers

£1,500

HIE STARTS CAPITAL GRANT - Funding to assist with capital expenditure associated with business start-up. 60% of funding comes from the AIE budget and 40% from the European Regional Development Fund, up to a maximum of £500.

Applicant

Business

Total Grant

Isabel Robertson, Colonsay

Tides Seafood, seafood caterers

£250

Jenyfer McNeill, Colonsay

Tides Seafood, seafood caterers

£250

PROPERTY – expenditure approved for direct provision of commercial or industrial property.

Project

Total cost

Assistance approved

Argyll & the Islands Enterprise

£340,000

£340,000

Construction and servicing of two workshop units at Scalasaig, Colonsay

   

ENVIRONMENTAL RENEWAL – funding to projects which repair or renew the physical environment.

Project

Total cost

Assistance approved

Colonsay Community Development Co Ltd

£141,480

£16,000

Reduction of rhododendrons on Colonsay

   

 

STRENGTHENING COMMUNITIES

COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT – assistance to community based projects to develop community strengths, leadership and confidence, enhance the quality of the environment and culture, and promote investment in community services and assets.

Project

Total cost

Assistance approved

Colonsay Community

£9,266

£4,633

Project and administration support

   

COMMUNITY ACTION GRANTS – programme for capital assistance to voluntary groups for projects which will benefit the community.

Project

Total cost

Assistance approved

Colonsay Parents Group

£1,628

£254

Swimming trip

   

Colonsay & Oronsay Heritage Trust

£1,261

£310

2001 Gaelic programme

   

 

SKILLS & SECTORAL DEVELOPMENT

SMALL COMPANY TRAINING GRANT - assistance for companies with three or less employees towards costs of skills development programmes and training courses to enhance the skill levels of their staff.

Project

Total cost

Assistance approved

K & C Byrne Partnership, Colonsay

£1,708

£427


CHURCHES APPEAL

In our last issue, we opened an appeal to assist in the installation of loop systems in both churches, which will assist the hard-of-hearing. Total cost will be about £3,000 and to date a total of £20.00 has been raised via "The Corncrake"; the appeal remains open until the end of May. The total raised will be divided between the two churches.


NOOKS & CRANNIES: A' Chachla Mhor

A' Chachla Mhor literally means "The Big Gate" and it was one of the seven or more gates which used to exist on the island road, before the advent of the cattle-grid and motor car. A' Chachla Mhor marks the boundary between Kiloran and the crofting district of Kilchattan and, more interestingly, the point at which the old road through Kilchattan joins the existing road.

Interested persons can still trace that road quite easily - it runs from the Cachla Mhor towards Kilchattan on a much higher line, going behind both the Baptist Manse and the School. It is easiest to join it behind the Baptist Manse, where it ran at the back of the well-preserved ditch and hedge. It continued on behind the line of houses at Kilchattan and seems to have petered out about Cnac nam Fad. The 1856 Admiralty Chart shows it on its modern line and extended as far as Port Mor, so it seems likely that the modern route was constructed as part of the improvement works commissioned to provide employment in the famine period.

WHAT'S ON IN COLONSAY

The bar and restaurant opening times are as follows:

BAR - OPEN DAILY -11am till 1am- serving alcoholic beverages, soft drinks, tea & coffee, confectionary and tobacco.
OFF SALES - available from 11am till 1am
BREAKFAST- for non residents from 8.30am till 9.30am (Booking Essential)
PACKED LUNCHES- from 10am till 2pm
MORNING COFFEE - from 11am till 12 noon
LUNCHES AND LIGHT BITES- 12 noon till 2.30pm
AFTERNOON TEA- 3pm till 5pm
EVENING MEALS - served from 6pm till 9.30pm
Food is served all day Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.

May's Pantry is open daily from 9am, licensed to sell wines, beers and spirits. Meals and snacks are served all day, with homemade bread baked to order. Please book in advance for evening meals, to be sure of a reservation. Telephone the Pantry on 01951 200325 or call May MacKinnon at home 0n 01951 200341

Tides Seafood Take Away - 12.00 - 5.00 pm, Tel 01951 200200364

Colonsay House Gardens are open (see sign for details) and light lunches are served in the Loggia on Wednesdays and Fridays.

Quiz in the Hotel every Wednesday at 9.30 pm.

Church Service
Please note that services in both the Baptist Church and the Church of Scotland are at the new time of 11.30hrs. Services are held weekly throughout the summer - please see notices in the shop and hotel for details.
c. April 28: The first Corncrake should have been heard! (The Blackthorn flowering was spoiled by high winds).

IMPORTANT NOTICE:
A two-day course in Heritage Tourism is to be held in the Village Hall as part of the Nadair "Argyll Islands Project". The course will be held on 6th and 7th June - full details are available through Diane Clark and at the Post Office. Kevin Byrne can also supply copies of the programme and enrolment form - this will be of interest to many people and is of outstanding importance to anybody providing accommodation or services to visitors. Please make a note in your diary now.

Other activities to be advertised in shop etc. Keep looking out for notice of a meeting about that very elusive ferry tender specification, which may have to be held at short notice.


SNIPPETS

Davie Sutherland was presented with an award in recognition of his services to the British Legion over many years; the rhododendron workers have all received formal training in the use of agricultural pesticides; a team of volunteers is expected shortly to continue the independent war against rohodendrons within the policies of Colonsay house; Mrs Ella MacConnell was flown off to hospital on 26th and is said to be comfortable; Bruno and Laura have a Planning Application lodged for their new house near Cnoc nam Fad; corncrake-friendly zones have been prepared for this year's arrivals; Archie has been preparing a new berth for John Bridges in the harbour:

LATE ENTRY: The following items have just been received from a special correspondent

Colonsay Wildlife Honey had a special mention in an article about British honey in The Times recently. The article highlighted an EU ban on Chinese honey which has been discovered to be contaminated with antibiotics and other drugs and then explored the joys and benefits of locally produced pure honeys which preserve all the "subtle, fragrant flavours" of the plants which the bees feed upon. Seven specialist producers were listed and near the top of this list is Andrew Abraham's Colonsay honey! The April 27th edition of The Week reproduced the important details of this article, again mentioning Colonsay. This must be good news locally as long as we don't find that all 2002 production is now to be snapped up by the "export" market!

The Nadair Trust Open Day and AGM
The Nadair Trust is the umbrella organisation handling more than £2 million of Heritage Lottery funding for 32 projects in various Argyll islands. Almost all of the projects are now underway and most of them have actually started to "draw down" payments. At the recent meeting in the Corran Halls presentations were made describing progess so far by The Ross of Mull Historical Society, Islay Community Access, Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust and the Lismore Heritage Trust. AILST also had on display its new brochures "Argyll's Atlantic Islands - Scotland's Sea Kingdom" which will be distributed in several languages, including Gaelic and which also received Lottery funding via the Trust. It is clear that this whole programme is going to have a huge effect on the various islands and small communities within them as well as on the whole area. On average several new jobs have been created per individual project and these jobs are the kind that help communities and individuals to build up their skills and expand their knowledge and horizons. A big part of the challenge is to sustain these projects and jobs past the three year funding period and if the enthusiasm of the presentations is anything to go by this now looks well likely to be achieved. There will also be scope, in the near future for more projects that fit the geographical, environmental, cultural and sustainability aims of the programme, to join Nadair - pronounced natch-er (and that's official).

Colonsay and Oronsay have 4 projects - our now famous Rhodie Clearance, a Discover C & O brochure, (both led by the Colonsay Community Development Company) Oronsay Priory conservation work ( which has not yet started) and an Oronsay Reserve project led by RSPB. These projects are variously part supported by SNH, AIE and other agencies. We are also included in a Heritage Tourism traning project and there will be opportunities for Colonsay to participate in/benefit from such projects as "The Floating Classroom" and some bird habitat schemes for Corncrake and Chough.


TOPICAL LETTERS

For convenience of readers, letters now appear in two sections. Anything to do with current events appears here, and letters to do with the Magazine section or historical research etc. will appear at the end of the Magazine section.



Donald MacAllister wishes to thank everyone for their kind messages and support during his recent spell in hospital. He is very much up and about again and well on the way to total recovery.



Dear Sir/Madam,
I thought you might be interested to hear that during my recent presentation on specialised contact lens fitting at The Scottish Contact Lens Society International Conference held at The Sheraton Grand Hotel in Edinburgh in March, I featured the holiday I had last year on Colonsay.

There were pictures of Malcolm McPhee Monument, Kiloran Bay, Oransay and the Priory. These were received well by delegates from Russia, America, New Zealand, Canada , England and Scotland.

I hope my enthusiasm for my ancestral home does does it's bit for Colonsay tourism !

Regards to all those I met at The Colonsay Hotel and I'll be back this year.
Regards, Kenny McPhee

Many thanks for this - and of course Colonsay would be a great venue to actually hold a conference - Editor



Dear All,
I've spent the last month being a bit more active than my first month in Thailand, so I'm feeling very smug! After Koh Pha Ngan, which is where I was when I last e-mailed (I think) I went to Koh Tao, an island to the north of K. P. N. I did a four day Scuba diving course there, which was really good fun. I think the best part though was discovering that you can laugh underwater, which was a very odd feeling! When I was there I met three Australians who were heading in the same direction as me, so I travelled with them and another friend down to Krabi in the south west. We stayed at a beach which, although the actual beach was really just mudflats, had incredible scenery - huge cliffs surrounding the beaches and lots of caves. Some of the other beaches were really spectacular. I did a wee bit of climbing there which I really enjoyed - me and a couple of others climbed to a hidden lagoon, which was probably the highlight of my holiday so far.

I've finally managed to drag myself away from the coast (and my friends) now and have come to Chiang Mai, Thailand's 2nd biggest city. It took a very long time to get here (12 hours on the bus and then 15 on the train) because I came straight from the south, but it was definately worth it - the city seems so mucher friendlier and town-like than Bangkok, and the surrounding mountains are beautiful. Tomorrow I begin a three day trekking trip with 7 other people. As well as doing lots of walking in the mountains we get to do some rafting on the river and have a ride on elephants. We also go to visit the Karen hill tribe, the ladies of which wear all those rings around their necks, which has always seemed like a very strange thing to do, to me, so it'll be very interesting to find out what that's all about!

I had better get back to my guesthouse now or my crazy landlady might object to it being late at night. She's very very funny, she's about 45ish, speaks very good English and is as mad as a hatter! And she has an unbelievable amount of energy!

I hope everyone is well at home and that the weather is getting nice and sunny for when I come back!
See you soon
Love Jen xxx



Thanks to the new Colonsay land acquisition program I have assembled a container load of goodies that are on their way to the Isle of Jura.

First of all I managed to put together 27 and one half man eating Alligators, 19 eye plucking Ostriches that had escaped from a zoo in Memphis, a pair of Lion cubs had no home after their mother had to be put to sleep after mauling a dancer on Beadle St. on the banks of the Mississippi River, 12 Emus that were found running wild after their owners had to turn them loose after they had eaten up all of his forage and was not able to afford them, an over the hill racehorse that could no longer win races at the Hot Springs, AR. race track, a Bear and two cubs that had to be relocated because they had been disturbing all the residents of New Orleans.

On my recent trip to Alaska I managed to capture 10 Caribou that had ran out of forage on the foot hills of Mt. McKinley, and I have managed to snag 15 snapping Turtles from the St. Francis river that had grown so large that the residents of Lake City, Ar. were considering moving before I snagged them.

All in all I believe that I have assembled a wide composite of animals that would make "my" application for a one mile wide and a half mile long area on the Isle of Jura receive quick approval. The animals are supposed to have a very brief stop over on the Isle of Colonsay where Charlie McKinnon, Kevin Byrne, and several of the hearty residents can give them some training of the Scottish ways. By the way I tested one half of an Aligator to see if they would make a tasty recipe and it failed the test so I have included the other half hoping that it would have softened up by the time it reaches Colonsay and have a more savory smell and flavor.

I received an update on the whereabouts of the container yesterday. It was sitting in the port of call in Glasgow, Scotland. So the Colonsay residents should expect it any day. I am going to read the bi weekly report that Kevin Byrne presents so timely and hoping he will have an update on my application for a petting zoo on the Isle of Jura. I would appreciate it if someone would place a large billboard on the Isle of Jura that reads, "Coming Soon," Petting Zoo. I will be looking for a trainer when they arrive so if anyone that can think of someone to man the zoo it would be appreciated. Pay will be negotiable.
Good day, Jerry



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First Impressions of Island Life, by Ruari Cumming

I was just 11 years old when I first visited Colonsay, with my parents, in 1957. We had such an enjoyable holiday, we came back the next three years as well, before I went on to Nautical College. My mother was born in Dunoon, moving to the south when she was still a child and my father, whilst born in London, was of Scottish extraction, his ancestors coming from Busby, just outside Glasgow.

I suppose you would have called us a typical "South of England" family in those days. We enjoyed, and took for granted, the amenities available to us in that part of Great Britain. We had no thought of life in the more remote parts of the country. The previous year we had our holiday at Fort William, where I first fell in love with Scotland. Even during that visit, I don't think any of us realised what the islander's "way of life" was really like.

Our journey from Reading to Colonsay took nearly 30 hours and involved ten changes of transport. The last few legs being from Gourock, through the Kyles of Bute to East Loch Tarbet on the old, 1912 built, SS "Saint Columba". After sailing from Gourock, we descended into the restaurant for our "silver service" breakfast, finishing in time to be on deck again to see Dunoon, the birthplace of my mother and always a very emotional moment for her.

From East Loch Tarbet, a coach took us across the peninsula to West Loch Tarbet, where the TSMV "Lochiel" was to take us on to Colonsay, via Gigha, Craighouse on Jura and Port Askaig. On arrival at Scalasaig, the "Lochiel" dropped her anchor and alongside came a small motor boat. We had to climb down a ladder, which was hung out over the side of the steamer. At the bottom of the ladder we had to wait for the right moment to step off and into the motor boat, as it rose & fell in the sea's swell. Not only did the passengers disembark this way but also all the luggage and general stores for the island were off loaded into this tossing motor boat.

Once ashore at the small sloping jetty, we were met by David Clark, from whom we had rented Baleromindubh farm house. David, who was also the local JP (Justice of the Peace), was a tall, impressive man with a soft, quiet voice and a calm manner. He put us and our suitcase, the latter of which was replaced with a more sturdy trunk in subsequent years, into the back of his van and we headed off inland. By now it became evident as to just how naive we were to island life. Our ordnance survey map showed the main road as being an "A" class road but what we didn't expect was to see heather growing up the middle of it ! My father sat up front, with David, and was happy to open any gates for him. After we passed through the gate at the bottom of the track to Baleromindubh, the van started to lurch all over the place as David negotiated the small boulders that littered this track. Father turned and looked at mother, as if to say, "….where on God's earth were we going to ?" Little did we know what an idyllic place awaited us with hospitality second to none.

After passing through the last gate, David steered the van up onto the crest of the hill, which overlooks Baleromindubh farm. The view that beheld us I have not, nor will ever, forget. It was, in the calm warm evening air, with the "Lochiel" sailing back to Islay, simply a Hebridean utopia. David manoeuvred the suitcase down the hill and at the door to the farm house we were warmly greeted by David's sisters, Mary Clark and Mrs Paris, who both helped David with the farm.

What a wonderful welcome, with a fire lit in the lounge and a supper prepared for us. Electricity hadn't come to Baleromindubh yet, so paraffin lamps gave us our light and the big black cooking range gave us lashings of hot water. A large scrap book and photo album, compiled by previous guests, sat on a table in the lounge, together with a wonderful book - "Colonsay and Oronsay in the Isles of Argyll" by John De Vere Loder.

Our rooms were wonderful, one looked inland over the farm yard to the hills beyond whilst the other looked out to sea, with Mull & Scarba in the distance. The walls were so thick, I could sit in the window and gaze out at the view. Between the bedrooms, the bathroom looked out to a large paddock, totally enclosed by tall elms, with the Paps of Jura visible through their stately trunks. Each morning, whilst shaving in the peat coloured water, father would always open the sash window to see the view.

As evening fell, we all went out into the gloaming and stood, taking in the atmosphere. The silence so noticeable that our ears complained at the lack of noise!

Our first morning was to buy provisions. Father & I donned a rucksack each and we all three walked the 2½ miles to Scalasaig. Across the rough track and down to the main road, passed Milbuie, the hotel and down to the harbour. Our naivety hit us again, as we expected to see a shop with a large plate glass frontage and a painted fascia board displaying the name of the shop owner, as you would have seen in southern England. But no, just a very large wooden building, with a single word painted on it's side - SHOP.

Once inside, it was an "Aladdin's cave" of all you would need on a remote island. Pots, pans, rakes and all sorts of hardware hung from the beams in the ceiling. The shelves were stacked with not only food, but all miscellany of other items, many of which were not necessarily for internal consumption. Packets of biscuits rubbed shoulders with liniment and boxes of matches. Mother launched off with her list by asking for a pound of Anchor butter. She soon found out that brand names were not the "in thing" on Colonsay. Butter was butter. Who manufactured it was immaterial ! This gave father an immediate problem, as he realised he wouldn't be able to buy his favourite brand of pipe tobacco. In later years, having learnt from these experiences, we brought any "specific" provisions in the trunk. Mother, having bought all she needed, finished by asking for two pounds of bananas, only to be told, very politely, that "there were none on the boat yesterday, perhaps they'll come next week".

We walked back up the road to the hotel where mother thought we ought to buy some gin & whisky for the farmhouse. Father pointed out that as it was only 10.20 a.m. and that pubs didn't open until 10.30. We sat on the wall, outside the hotel, admiring the fuschia hedge that grew alongside the wall. Twenty minutes later, we entered the "bar" and rang the bell on the counter. After a little while, a man came and sold father the bottles he wanted. During the conversation, father explained we were staying at Baleromindubh and that we had been sitting outside until opening time. The man replied that he knew who we were and went on to say that the bar was never closed and that doors were never locked on the island. Apparently we should have "….just come in and helped yourselves. Pay before you leave the island". But what about the Custom & Excise, father said ? "We don't worry about them, we can see them coming 10 miles off".

The next day we embarked on the long walk from Baleromindubh, passed Scalasaig Farm, where David's brother John was the tenant, over the pass on Beinn nan Gudairean, passed Loch Fada, through the woodland gardens behind Colonsay House and on to Kiloran Bay. What a bay it was, stretching ahead of us, half a mile of golden yellow sand. But when you picked up a handful, the granules were of many and varied colours. After our day at Kiloran, we set off to walk the 5 odd miles back to Baleromindubh. I must say, I was flagging on the way back and it was only by playing a "game", to keep my spirits up, that we made it. When recounting this to David, he suggested that we could always walk to our destination and pre-book for Finlay, in his taxi, to come & collect us. This was welcome news and we did do this on several occasions later. In fact it was Finlay who gave me a beautiful crook, with a carved horn hilt, which I have treasured ever since. What kindness & generosity to virtual strangers.

The telephone system was, of course, "manually operated". I believe the telephone number for Baleromindubh was something like "Colonsay 5" ! I remember one day, when I was playing in the dining room, David asked if he could use the telephone. "Of course", mother said and told me to leave Mr Clark in private to make his call. "Oh that's alright" said David. "The little lad is fine where he is". He picked up the handset, turned the handle to attract the switchboard and immediately lapsed into gaelic. No wonder privacy was not important in such a situation. Of course the telephone system had other uses. We called somebody on the island, one day, only to be told by the switchboard operator that "I think they've gone to Oban today". Saved the cost of a call!

Of course this "bush telegraph" did have other advantages. One day we decided to walk down to the Strand and cross, in bare feet, to Oronsay. We had just got to the road end and were in the process of removing shoes & socks, when a vehicle appeared from Garvard Farm. This was Mrs McNeill, who had heard from David Clark, of our intended exploit and kindly offered to take us across in her Land Rover. I don't think for a moment she had need to go to Oronsay herself, but just wanted to make visitors to the island as welcome as possible.

My memories of this wonderful and peaceful island, and the warm and genuine welcome from it's inhabitants, will never leave me.

I have been back since, in the late 60's and again in the early 70's and still get that "thrill" on arrival and that sadness on leaving, like parting from a lifelong friend. But I will be coming back again, after 30 years, in just a few days time, at the end of April.

Ruari A. L. Cumming, FBII, LRPS
24th April 2002


1901 CENSUS - Part II

Although there was a generally disappointing lack of response to the publication of Part One of the census, Prof. John Sheets carried out a fascinating analysis. He produced a genetic-style pedigree linking 13 of the 20 households listed by common ancestors and/or marriages. The document is hard to reproduce here, but copies are available from The Editor. The chart is dominated by the descendants of Neil McNeill - Mary Brown and by those of Donald Currie - Annabella Currie. Prof. Sheets points out that some questions spring to mind:

"Were the closer relatives living near one another, or not?
To what depth and with what terminology did they define and recognise kinship?
Did nicknames incorporate kinship, or not?
Since so few of the children stayed in Colonsay to marry and have children, how did the increased kinship (and lack of employment) restrict their mate choice (in the avoidance of kin)?
Was such a tightly-woven Kilchattan similar to, or different from, other places in Colonsay of one hundred years ago?"

One or two of these questions may be partially answered by means of this week's offering, the second part of the census record. Both Uragaig and Riasg Buidhe might be expected to have characteristics in common with Kilchattan, although of course both Kiloran and Balnahard are atypical.

Once again, readers are invited to contribute. One or two stories could have been given concerning Kilchattan - one wonders if anyone will remind us of the memorable events surrounding the demise of the Minister? (He is recorded at "2 Glasard", below).


1 Uragaig Duncan McPhee Head s 41 crofter   Colonsay Gaelic 3
    Flora McPhee mother wid 75 annuitant   Colonsay Gaelic  
    Eliza McPhee sister s 37 domestic serv   Colonsay G & E  
    Margaret mcPhee sister s 33 domestic serv   Colonsay G & E  
    Malcolm McPhee brother s 31 worker   Colonsay G & E  
                     
2 Uragaig Archibald McLugash Head s 52 crofter   Colonsay G & E 2
    Sarah Mcugash sister s 54 housekeeper   Colonsay G & E  
    James Watson servant   12 herd   Dumbarton G & E  
                     
3 Uragaig Malcolm McMillan Head s 60 crofter   Colonsay Gaelic 2
    Anne McMillan mother w 90 annuitant   Colonsay Gaelic  
    Anne McMillan sister s 56 domestic serv   Colonsay Gaelic  
    Alexander McMillan brother s 53 worker   Colonsay G & E  
                     
4 Uragaig Hugh Bouie head s   crofter   Colonsay G & E 2
    Dorothy Bouie mother w   annuitant   Colonsay G & E  
    Euphemia Bouie sister s   worker   Colonsay G & E  
    Dorothy A Bouie niece     scholar   Colonsay G & E  
                     
5 Uragaig Archibald Bouie head mar 72 crofter   Colonsay Gaelic 2
    Mary Bouie wife mar 63 crofter's wife   Colonsay Gaelic  
    Katie Bouie daur s 32 worker   Colonsay Gaelic  
    Hugh Bouie gdson   13 scholar   Colonsay Gaelic  
    Jessie Bouie gddaur   4     Colonsay Gaelic  
                     
6 Uragaig Roger McMillan Head mar 57 crofter   Colonsay Gaelic 2
    Bella McMillan wife mar 53 crofter's wife   Colonsay G & E  
    Neil McMillan son   15 worker   Colonsay G & E  
    Hector McMillan son   13 scholar   Colonsay G & E  
                     
1 Balnahard Duncan McKinnon Head s 37 farmer employer Colonsay G & E 7
    Alexander McAllister servant mar 38     Colonsay G & E  
    Hector McNeill servant s 18     Colonsay G & E  
                     
1 Kiloran Agnes Rae Head s 46 H/keeper dom. worker Airdrie   37
    Flora McNeill Serv s 26 Cook, dom. worker Colonsay G & E  
                     
2 Kiloran Archibald Bouie Head mar 34 Shepherd   Colonsay G & E 3
    Marion Buie wife mar 42 shepherd's wife   Colonsay G & E  
    Hugh Buie son   2     Colonsay    
    Hector Buie son   1     Colonsay    
    Alexander Worthington stepson   13     England G & E  
    Daisy Worthington stepdr   9     England G & E  
                     
3 Kiloran Malcolm Campbell head mar 41 Gamekeeper worker Colonsay G & E 5
    Catherine Campbell wife mar 37 Keeper's wife   Colonsay G & E  
    Neil Campbell son   5     Colonsay Gaelic  
    Hector Campbell son   4     Colonsay Gaelic  
    Peter Campbell son   2     Colonsay    
    Angus Campbell son   1m     Colonsay    
                     
4 Kiloran (empty house)                
                     
5 Kiloran Flora McPhee head wid 85 annuitant   Colonsay G & E 3
    Maggie McPhee daur s 44 annuitant   Colonsay G & E  
    John Stroyan gdson s 19   worker Ireland G & E  
    William Stroyan gdson   16 scholar   Colonsay G & E  
    Annabella Stroyan gddaur   11 scholar   Colonsay G & E  
    Elizabeth Stroyan gddaur   9 scholar   Colonsay G & E  
                     
6 Kiloran Alexander McNeill head mar 48 ploughman worker Colonsay G & E 2
    Isabella McNeill wife mar 38 p'man's wife   Colonsay G & E  
    Malcolm McNeill son   15 scholar   Colonsay G & E  
    Margaret McNeill daur   12 scholar   Colonsay G & E  
    Angus McNeill son   10 scholar   Colonsay G & E  
    Jessie McNeill daur   6     Colonsay Gaelic  
    Archibald McNeill son   1     Colonsay    
                     
7 Kiloran Malcolm McNeill head marr 65 Gardener dom. worker Colonsay G & E 3
    Margaret McNeill wife marr 63 g'dener's wife   Colonsay G & E  
    Margaret McNeill daur s 26 dressmaker at home Colonsay G & E  
                     
8 Kiloran Murdoch McNeill head mar 63 manager   Colonsay G & E 5
    Catherine mcNeill wife mar 60 m'ger's wife   Colonsay G & E  
    Christine Bowie servant s 36 gen servant   Colonsay G & E  
                     
9 Kiloran John McPhee head s 38 ploughman worker Colonsay G & E 3
    Hugh Bowie   s 38 cattleman worker Colonsay G & E  
    Angus Campbell   s 38 groom worker Colonsay G & E  
    Archie McConnel   s 16 g'dener's appr. worker Colonsay G & E  
                     
1 Riskbuie Anne McLugash Head wid 90 annuitant   Mull Gaelic 2
    Anne McLugash daur s 60 dom. Servant   Colonsay G & E  
    Flora McKinnon sister s 72 annuitant   Colonsay G & E  
                     
2 Riskbuie (empty house)                
                     
3 Riskbuie Mary (?) McAllister Head mar 33 crofter's wife   Soay G & E 2
    Alexander McAllister son   12 scholar   Paisley G & E  
    Effie McAllister daur   8 scholar   Soay G & E  
    Katie McAllister daur   6 scholar   Colonsay Gaelic  
    John McAllister son   4     Colonsay Gaelic  
    Maggie McAllister daur   1     Colonsay    
    Peter McAllister son   6m     Colonsay    
                     
4 Riskbuie Alexander McAllister Head mar 71 crofter   Colonsay G & E 2
    Catherine McAllister wife mar 71 crofter's wife   Colonsay G & E  
    Peter McAllister son s 20 fisherman   Colonsay G & E  
                     
5 Riskbuie Archibald McNeill head s 57 fisherman   Colonsay G & E 2
    Catherine McNeill sister s 55 dressmaker own a/c Colonsay G & E  
                     
6 Riskbuie Ann McMillan head wid 79 crofter   Colonsay Gaelic  
    Hugh McMillan gdson   14 scholar   Colonsay G & E  
    Sarah McDonald gddr   10 scholar   Glasgow G & E  
    John McDonald gdson   7 scholar   Glasgow Gaelic  
                     
7 Riskbuie (empty house)                
                     
8 Riskbuie Neil Darroch head s 36 Fisherman   Colonsay G & E