BOAT-PEOPLE IN COLONSAY

A novel situation arose on Wednesday 26 April when an influx of hapless day-visitors were marooned in Colonsay. The morning ferry had arrived at noon from Port Askaig, and some 60 people came ashore to spend the day in the island. It was a most unpleasant day, wet and windy and very cold and it was with some relief that MV "Isle of Arran" was seen on her return at 6pm. Unfortunately for all concerned, conditions had deteriorated and the combination of high wind and low tide made it impossible for her to come alongside. It took a few minutes for the truth to sink in, after which the general consternation of the visitors was highly gratifying to those of us for whom the situation was all too familiar.

Fortunately, the castaways were in good hands. All available accommodation was pooled and allocated as appropriate - within 45 minutes, everybody knew where they would be sleeping. Meantime, the Hotel and the Pantry both made special arrangements for meals, Keith opened the Shop for a couple of hours so people could stock up on toothpaste and last Sunday's newspapers, and Dr. Currie made arrangements to re-assure people who were without vital medication etc. CalMac took steps to land incoming passengers and freight at Port Askaig and worked to provide a relief vessel - by 7.30 p.m. everyone had been advised that MV "Pioneer" would be brought up from the Clyde, and that she would arrive at Colonsay by 3pm on the 27th.

All in all, things went very well. The victims took it all in good part, nobody used words like "bogus" or "humbug", and the visitors went so far as to win one of the prizes in the Pub Quiz that night. Hopefully, Colonsay made a number of new friends - by Thursday afternoon, the weather was perfect and many of the unexpected guests had made arrangements to return. A total of 88 persons sailed away on MV "Pioneer" amidst much waving and general good cheer.

WILDCAT WEDDING

Kirsty (Bellamy),daughter of Trevor and Fran Patrick and granddaughter of Frank Nicholson was married to Chris Mahon, on Saturday 29 April in the United States. The wedding took place in a clearing in the New England woods, at the home of the groom's family in Wildcat Hill Road, New Ipswich. It was a wonderful celebration with a beautiful spring day for the occasion, where only a week before, snow had been lying.

Frank was unable to join the party but Fran and Trevor travelled out via Boston and have returned just in time to recover for their jet lag before coming to Colonsay to show us all the photographs! GH.

THE BAPTIST CHURCH

Easter Sunday saw the Baptist Church filled almost to capacity at 12 noon as islanders and visitors gathered for an Easter Service, which was conducted by Rev Alex Rodger, Broughty Ferry, the 'overseer' of the Colonsay church.

During the service the children from the Children's Club - which was formed in October, meeting after school on Thursdays - sang two pieces. Appropriately for children who live on an Island they started with 'Wide, wide as the ocean' and equally appropriate for Easter they followed this with 'Praise Him, praise Him all ye little children' . Their singing brought spontaneous applause from the congregation, and then each child came forward to be presented with a book prize for attendance. The prizes were presented by Mrs Joan Rodger.

Speaking of the development of the Club - which became possible when the building was connected to the electricity - Alex pointed out that although initially plans for the Club appeared to be fraught with difficulty - nevertheless it had been established. He paid tribute to Irene Campbell, leader of the Club, and to Margaret Walker and Betty Galbraith who had supported her in the work. He also expressed thanks to the parents and the community for their support, and special appreciation to Kevin Byrne who had given of his time to provide transport to take the children safely home from the Club each week.

Following the service Alex presented each child present (almost thirty of them) - with a creme egg. The club has now been discontinued for the summer, but it is hoped to re-commence in September. In this connection we would like to appeal to any locals who feel that they could offer any help then to let us know over the summer months. We need ideas for games/activities and particularly help with the singing - so if you sing, play a guitar etc. and feel you could spare some time - not necessarily every week - we would be glad if you would let either Irene or Eleanor know. E McN.

CHURCH OF SCOTLAND - New Manse

In recent years Colonsay has had no resident minister, but has benefited from visiting ministers who have spent all or part of their holidays in the island. They had to be spartan souls, since the original manse was built in the 1830's and was in need of significant improvement. In 1995, a fund was established and twenty individuals pledged £500 each towards a total renovation project estimated at £40,000.

Unfortunately dry rot was discovered and costs escalated. An attempt to create sheltered housing was frustrated and Lottery Funding was not an acceptable option. Under the circumstances, the painful decision was made to sell the manse on the open market. Fortunately, Colonsay is now linked with the mainland parish of Kilchattan and Kilbrandon and has a shared minister, Rev. Freda Marshall. Through the energies of Rev. Marshall and with generous support from Presbytery and the General Trustees, it has now been possible to build a new manse within the existing glebe.

The original twenty "friends of Colonsay Manse" allowed their contributions to be applied towards the new project; without their generous support, the new manse would have been an impossible dream. Now that it has been completed, pulpit supply has been assured throughout the summer months and it is hoped that the manse will be in use all through the year.

Meanwhile, the APPEAL FUND remains open - this is a very small congregation and there is a need to repay an interest-free loan. Additionally, it is clear that the fabric of the church itself will be in need of attention before long. Colonsay and Oronsay Parish Church is a registered charity and is eligible for Gift Aid and other tax-efficient donations. For further details, please contact Hon. Treasurer, Miss Margaret Walker or write to Kevin Byrne, Session Clerk, Isle of Colonsay, Argyll PA61 7YR

THE HARBOUR

There is a lot of activity as boats are prepared for the new season. "Mandolin" was first back onto her berth, largely because she never quite made it onto the hard. Donald Gibbie's "Follalie" was next and on May 4th Frank Nicholson's "Three Sisters" took to the water, sporting a handsome new tender. Bill's "Seaspray" followed on the 5th, resplendent in a new livery (poppy). John Clark is busy lambing, but has been seen looking at his boat rather a lot, and although Duncan Sandy has yet to return, his seal "Sammy" is maintaining a watching brief.

Incidentally, there are big changes in the legislation governing pleasure boats used for hire. New regulations ("Nominated Point of Departure Code") will involve quite serious investment of time and money. It is possible that pleasure trips may become a thing of the past on many parts of the coast, but a genuine attempt at compliance is being made here in Colonsay. By late August it will be clear if the attempt has been successful.

DOROTHY SCOULLER (1919-2000)

Mrs Dorothy Scouller died on 7 April.

Born in Bolton, Lancashire, she first came to Colonsay on her honeymoon in 1949, following her marriage to Ivor Scouller, whose mother Mary was a native of the island. They spent a number of holidays on Colonsay in the 1950s when their children Alastair and Gair were small.

The family home was in Bearsden for many years, but following Ivor's death in 1985, Dorothy moved to Dorset to live near her brother and his wife. Meanwhile in 1989 Alastair acquired the house in Glassard which had previously been occupied by his father's cousin Katie Brown, and both he and his mother became frequent visitors to the island.

Dorothy suffered a stroke in 1992, and the loss of her daughter Gair to cancer in 1996. A year ago she had a further stroke, from which she never fully recovered. Her funeral was held in Somerset, and her ashes will be buried with those of her late husband in Kilchattan cemetery at the end of May, when a number of relatives and friends will be over for Alastair's 50th birthday celebrations.

What's On in Colonsay

The Blackthorn display would have peaked on the same Wednesday as the Islay ferry had to be cancelled, and fell victim to the same wind. The swallows arrived that day, 26th April and the cuckoo was heard on 27th. The first corncrake was heard on 28th April and has now arrived in force (there is one scurrying across the lawn as I write). Large numbers of birds may be seen on the sea cliffs. The wildflowers are profuse and a walk to Balnahard will be well rewarded by the flora on the dunes. Spring Squill and milkwort are at their finest, and there are carpets of bluebells, scurvygrass, seapinks and Ransomes. This week, look out for the Roseroot on the small cliff near Geodha Gorm. Margaret Kiernen (01951 200225) is giving guided walks; her introduction to the Colonsay flora is an excellent opportunity.
An exhibition of work by Colonsay and Oransay artists is open before the arrival of each ferry, and is mounted in the Pier Waiting Room.
An exhibition by CAEG is to open this week in The Upper Room of the new Village Hall.
Colonsay House Gardens are open to the public every Wednesday, and the woodland gardens are open every day.
There are regular BBQ's at the hotel - see notices for details.
The summer arrangements for pulpit supply are now in place. Services each Sunday are at 11.00 in Church of Scotland and 12.00 in the Baptist Church. All are welcome.
Official Opening of the New Hall is on May 20th - this is clearly going to be a very special event. There will be well-kent figures from far and wide, a general gathering of the great and the good and already a dedicated group is working flatout to make the day a big success.
Wednesday 24 May - there will be a sale of garden plants at the pier, arranged by Foreland Nurseries of Islay.
All-island Millenium Picnic and Party is at Seal Cottage on 16 June, following an Ecumenical Service at the Priory (by the courtesy of Mrs. F. Colburn). There is no obligation to attend the Service, but it is hoped that one and all will attend the party.

Snippets

BT Cellnet has finally gone live! Too late for some former subscribers, but better late than never; Sid has taken up hen-keeping and has hatched his first chick; wee Liam is a big boy now - his curls are all shorn; the artic that came on Sunday was carrying materials to renovate Ben Odhran (again!); a Scottish Conservation group has been at work in the woodland gardens; Richard and Mavis Gulliver have been here, working on their Atlas of Colonsay Flora; there was a near-miss at Scalasaig, involving a sheep and a mobile phone (details are hazy); the new Pevsner guide lists the cottages at Kiloran Farm - Betty and Jean are thinking of opening to the public.

The Magazine Section

Colonsay's Early Emigrants

The First Statistical Account included information on Colonsay and Oronsay, the "western division" of a parish which then included Jura, Scarba, Lunga and Belnahua. As a result of survey, this division was "found to measure about 8,000 acres, of which about 3,000 are said to be arable". It was noted that "the inhabitants are robust and healthy; they live in the same simple manner with their brethren in Jura, and have neither lawyer no surgeon in the island. … The system of converting arable into pasture, is making rapid progress in Colonsay. The best part of the island is under black cattle; these are in great request among the graziers, and thought to be a very fine breed. The art of abridging labour, and keeping a few good cattle, has not yet established itself in this distant corner. Those innocent animals, the sheep, are totally banished, although … nature seems to have destined the heath-covered hills for their use."

Statistics of the island population were recorded as follows:
Farms in tillage: 7
Farms in pasture: 8
Total farms: 15
Families: 134
Total souls: 718
Males: 352
Females: 366

"There are above 40 souls, at an average, in each of the farms; but some of these being very small, not having above 3 or 4 families, the number of souls in the best inhabited farms is very great. … A few emigrated from Colonsay to America, summer 1792; but in summer 1791, a considerable proportion of the inhabitants crossed the Atlantic. Those who remain, give out that they are waiting only good accounts from their relations, and a proper opportunity of being transported to the other hemisphere. Pity it is that such numbers should bid farewell to their native country, when there is so great a demand for useful citizens; and their situation might be rendered more comfortable at home."

In a footnote, there is a further comment "The registers of marriages and baptisms have been kept so negligently in Colonsay, that, however defective this account may be without extracts from them, they cannot be admitted. The assistant preacher resides in Colonsay, but there is no proper house built for his accommodation; and there is no church to shelter the people from the inclemency of the weather."

The account laments that 40% of the parochial stipend has to be given to the assistant in Colonsay; comments that the poor "are not much in the habits of going about and begging" and generally rely upon support from their relations. A charity school in Colonsay is noted, funded by SPCK (an organisation which sought to eradicate the Gaelic language). "The language universally spoken in the parish is Gaelic. Very few of the old people understand English. But from the laudable endeavours of the schoolmasters to teach their scholars the vocabulary, and use of that language, and from a general opinion gaining ground, that it will be of great service in life, it is hoped that the rising generation will make considerable progress in acquiring the English language."

The writer had earlier regretted that the population should be lost to its native country; he now opines that "The inhabitants do not feel that strong desire of bettering their circumstances, that would stimulate them to exertion and enterprise. Instead of trying the effects of industry at home, they foster the notion of getting at once into a state of ease and opulence, with their relations beyond the Atlantic."

Clearly the writer is in a difficult position; he represents the Established Church, and is himself dependent upon the Establishment in the persons of those heritors who provide his stipend and who hold his Living in their gift. He regrets that "in summer 1791, a considerable proportion of the inhabitants crossed the Atlantic", yet he tries to pretend that it is not the fault of the landlords. To the present day, there is a myth that "there were no clearances in Colonsay", despite incontrovertible evidence to the contrary. The situation in the 19th century can be considered in due course - in this short article it might be useful to examine the proposition that "instead of trying the effects of industry at home, they foster the notion of getting at once into a state of ease and opulence, with their relations beyond the Atlantic".

The above allegation can be taken to suggest that the emigrants went of their own volition. The same implication underlies the earlier statement: "A few emigrated from Colonsay to America, summer 1792; but in summer 1791, a considerable proportion of the inhabitants crossed the Atlantic." Compare these words with the information that was gleaned by the late A.I.B.Stewart, whose article "Highland Emigration to America with particular reference to North Carolina" was published in April 1992 "Argyll Colony Plus". The publishers of that excellent publication have kindly subsidised the provision of a complete set for research purposes in Colonsay. In the hopes that additional information may be forthcoming, the following material draws upon one section of that article:

"On 3rd September 1791 the (Customs) Board enquired regarding a considerable number of people from Colonsay about to embark in Islay for North Carolina. British manufactures were threatened.
"You are particularly to guard against any tools or utensils used in the woollen and silk or made use of in the Iron and Steel Manufactures being exported to foreign parts and to prevent the seducing of artificers or workmen employed in these manufactures to go into parts beyond the seas. We are further to observe that no Countenance is due to emigration."

"Mr. Malcolm Campbell, the Islay officer, reported that the ship had come to Islay and then gone to Colonsay:
"To take in the passengers with all their effects which consist only of wearing apparel, as they are poor labouring people who have been deprived of their farms by their landlord and they will not be stopt by him (presumably the landlord)."

The master had refused to go to Campbeltown to make the necessary declarations but stated: "the ship would take 150 full passengers to be landed at Wilmington in North Carolina".

It was later reported that the ship was the General Washington, James Miller master, and that she had the following passengers from Colonsay: 28 men, 28 women and 86 children. There were additional passengers from Islay and Mull.

After the first two emigrations, there were still 718 souls in Colonsay and Oronsay, so a pre-emigration population of c. 880 may be assumed. Thus one sixth of the population had been cleared at a stroke; the notion of a feckless and carefree dash to "getting at once into a state of ease and opulence" sits uneasily with the fact that their possessions were literally the clothes in which they stood.

This clearance has almost slipped from view - those who remained after each successive wave knew better than to talk about it; better to pretend it never happened than to find oneself amongst the next to go. Physical evidence can be seen in the changed farming system and the creation of the crofting districts of Kilchattan and Uragaig, the blueprint of which survives in the contemporary Estate Map and later "fair copy" (1806). There long survived an oral tradition too - the story of "How the Bells came to be Cleared from Balnahard".

There still exists the version of this as given by the late A.S.McNeill, but it would be good to know if anybody else can tell the tale, for comparative purposes. It would also be good to know of any descendants of that voyage of 1791 - despite efforts to date, no information has been found. If you can help in any way, please get in touch with the Editor.

WHITE HEATHER

The following poem by "Margaret MacDougall" has been discovered amongst some papers - if anyone can provide information about the author it would be welcomed by the Editor.

A sprig of white heather I cherish with care,
Sweet flower, to adorn a maiden so fair,
I brought from a lone isle far over the seas,
And that sprig of white heather is dear unto me

From the lofty Ben Oran I gathered it there,
For among our wild mountains I knew it was rare,
It seems as a tie to that isle far away,
For our home in those days was in sweet Colonsay.

That sprig of white heather brings back to my mind,
The dear loving hearts that to me were so kind,
And in fancy I see our old home o'er the sea,
Oh, no wonder the heather is dear unto me.

How those happy days as we roamed o'er the hills
'mongst the heather and bracken and moss-covered rills,
Or watched the last rays of the sun in the west
How grand was the scene as he sank to his rest.

Oh, sweet isle of beauty our fate we deplore,
O'er the wild rocky beach we may tread never more;
On the high rugges hills we may never stand there,
Where my sprig of white heather once blossomed so fair.

by Margaret MacDougall

Colonsay's Weather Jan/April 2000

The following table has been prepared from the official records collected by the Meteorological Observer for the island; the observations are made at Homefield, beside Port Mor.