APOLOGY

Issue 76 is due out on May 16 but will not now appear until June 1st. Excuses include pressure of work and the fact that the normally-robust Editor was stricken by a bug. There are some fascinating letters to hand for the next edition and some effort will be made to describe the cascade of activity that has befallen the island. It has been reported (see below) that an "Error 404" message prevents one reader from accessing the Archive... it would be helpful to know if other folk have had problems. Our ISP has been acting strangely and we have been unable to update the site in recent weeks - there may be more gremlins and information will be welcome. Until June 1st....





"THE CORNCRAKE" ARCHIVE

For technical reasons, the archive has been placed in a new home and by now the transfer should be almost complete. If any reader notices any problem in issues that have been moved, please notify the editor. The file is being moved in sections and the earliest issues will be the last to be restored. Incidentally, a copy of Issue 1 or Issue 3 would be very welcome, if anyone can oblige.



COLONSAY DIARY

The island was very busy over the Easter holiday period, but now that the schools have re-opened it seems much quieter. Most accommodation is fully booked at present, and it is believed that the situation is buoyant for most of the summer. VisitScotland's representative has been in Colonsay this week, carrying out the annual inspection for quality awards.

"Lady Jayne" was busy for a while, but recent days have been rather dull and un-enticing. No whales have been seen so far this year, but there have been good sightings of Puffins and also some Manx Sheerwater. Over the next few weeks there will be plenty of activity on the bird cliffs and in June the Primary School has booked a trip to Islay. A new possibility this year has already been pioneered with success - leave Colonsay at about 8 a.m on Wednesday to be set ashore at the entrance to Loch Tarbert in Jura, returning that evening by the CalMac ferry from Port Askaig. Members of the party can choose between following "Evan's Path", exploring the Paps or simply following the southwest coastline along the Sound to Feolin.

The new lighthouse is now complete, but work on completing the "workshop units" at Scalasaig seems to have slowed. There is still plenty of building activity elsewhere - Willie Currie of Islay took a 20 tonne lorryload of cement up to Crumble Cottage, an achievement that paves the way for much more traffic into Uragaig. The raised beaches at Rudha Aird Alanais are being excavated with gathering speed, no doubt to the consternation of the erstwhile tern colony; nonetheless, such material has to come from somewhere.

A much-heralded storm on Monday 28th did not materialise, but precautions had to be taken because MV "Lord of the Isles" lies at the pier overnight. In the event, it was a good opportunity to practice all the arrangements for heavy weather without any of the associated inconvenience. "Loti", as she is affectionately known, now operates most of Colonsay's new timetable and has been providing a very comfortable and efficient service.

MV "Hebridean Princess" has been calling on a regular basis, and her sister ship will be making a maiden visit later this year. There have been few fishing boats as yet this year, but the harbour has seen most boats relaunched rather earlier than usual.

When the new Coastguard RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) visited Colonsay recently with an Oban crew, members of the local team were impressed by her attractive lines and obvious potential. "Hawk" is a 10 metre Pacific 32 with twin 300hp Yanmar engines, able to cruise at 25 knots and with a top speed of about 35 knots. Her duties will include the enforcement of Marine Coastguard Agency regulations as applicable to commercial and fishing craft.

Computer classes are now well under way at Kilchattan and participants seem pleased with the course material. Experienced users are finding it useful to collate their existing knowledge, whilst novices are getting to grips with the annoying idiosyncrasies that seem so puzzling. Because it is such a busy time of year, some students may choose to pursue the course in their own time but will remain in touch with the mentors so that progress can be monitored. It will be quite difficult to adhere to the prescribed timetable and it will help to be flexible. If anyone cannot attend a particular class, please keep Lucy or Kevin informed - it may be possible to arrange a swap with somebody else and it would be a pity to see a machine unused.

Angela Skrimshire has agreed to organise a petition concerning the quality of many local telephone lines (please see Letters (below) for background. Even if their own connection is good, islanders are urged to consider the plight of many of their neighbours and whether they should therefore add their support.

The Development Company has engaged Duncan Price of "Energy for Sustainable Development Ltd." to undertake a feasability study of local opportunities. It is believed that he will make a full report within five months and that most avenues are to be explored, including wind, wave, lunar (tides), solar and heat-exchange systems. No word about nuclear (which we were all told was to be the fuel of the future), nor about the extraction of hydrogen from water to operate generators - last discussed in 1976 or so.

On 30th April, it was learned that Mike Peacock's father had died that morning in Oronsay. The thoughts and prayers of all friends and neighbours are with Mike and Val in their distress, and of course with all other members of the bereaved family.


DIARY DATE - 26 July 2003

We are reliably informed that ever-popular musicians "Follow that Camel" are coming to Colonsay Hall on the Saturday 26th July, 2003.

The idea is for a concert followed by a dance..... there will be a big group coming with the band and the concert will feature singers, pipers and highland dancers.....followed by a dance to "Follow that Camel"", live!!

Graham Fuge has promised to give us more details nearer the time, but for the moment it should be sufficient to clear your diary, open your card and book your partners.




BUSINESS PROFILE - Balnahard Farmhouse

This very attractive but remote farmhouse sleeps ten people and is close to a stunning beach (see Jolomo picture in Magazine section below). This is only the second season that it has been available to rent and some weeks in June are on offer at a special discount.

Follow
Balnahard link to find out about Balnahard, but follow Bargain Breaks to find out about the special offers.

It is hoped to briefly profile a different business in each issue - if anybody wishes to be next, or to submit their own description, please contact the Editor. Otherwise, pot luck applies.



HASTE YE BACK

Isobelle Campbell, who has served as District Nurse in Colonsay for almost a decade, has removed to Mull, in order to take up a new post. Members of the community, including Home Helps and their clients as well as nursing patients, made a surprise presentation as a mark of their appreciation. "DNC" (in Keith-speak) was not aware of their plans and arrived innocently enough at the Pantry on Tuesday, where the organizers expressed their warm thanks and sincere good wishes for her future career. The presentation included a picture of Port a' Mhinistear by local artist Wendy Radford.


 

NATURE NOTES

Tormentil, milkwort, goat willow, deergrass are all in flower, the Cuckoo has been calling since 27th, and the Corncrake has been heard at Scalasaig Farm; six snow bunting have been sighted close to The Pantry. Carpets of bluebells and wild garlic are to be enjoyed on the way to Kiloran Bay. Great Northern Diver, Grey Seal and an otter are all prominently on view at Port an Obain, Scalasaig. Anybody wishing to explore A' Choille Mhor should remember to do so in May, before the bracken makes it impossible. The programme of natural regeneration of native woodland at Spion Kopje seems to be making great strides - the whole of Glassard glen is filling up with healthy birch and rowan saplings.


NOOKS & CRANNIES: "Maggie Thomson's" Well

The island has enjoyed an unfailing supply of mains water for almost twenty years, which nowadays is of the highest quality. Many of the old wells are half-forgotten and falling into decay, but one or two people still draw water from "Maggie Thomson's" Well to accompany their whisky. Not long ago, this was the sole source of drinking water for most of Scalasaig in the summer months - a toddler from the hotel used to occupy himself in hauling a gallon at a time in a tiny wooden trailer.

There could be plenty of excitement - some readers will remember the yachtsman who wandered up to this well and was discovered to have washed and shaved in it; no joke at the time, when bottled water was unheard of and there was no alternative supply. At a later stage, Charlie MacKinnon brought 1,000 gallons of water per day to the hotel from a loch, but in the late 1970's stricter rationing meant that ladies per permitted just one flush per day, whilst gentlemen were restricted to the saltwater-fed facilities on the pier.

"Maggie Thomson" was really Maggie Haig, born about 1872 in England but one who who dressed very strictly in the black-and-white which was in vogue in her day. Her image survives in a film taken in the early 1920's, but from her costume the casual observer would never guess that she was by then barely fifty years of age.

For the record, her well lies directly opposite the cottage, across the road.




WHAT'S ON IN COLONSAY

Colonsay House Gardens - every Wednesday afternoon

Boat Trips - daily, obtain brochure at Hotel, Pantry, Shop, P.O., Bookshop or Pier

Quiz in the Hotel every THURSDAY at 9.30 pm.
Evening Meals: 6pm - 9pm on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.
5pm - 9.30pm on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.
Lunches served daily 12 - 2.30pm
Bar open: 12 - 2.30 and 6pm till late (from 5pm on Friday and Sunday).

The Pantry - Summer hours apply
Tel 01951 200235

Church Service
Please note that services in both the Baptist Church and the Church of Scotland are at the new time of 11.30hrs. Services are held regularly - see notices in the shop and hotel for details.

4th May - Baptist Church, Rev. Marshall Gibson
11th May - Church of Scotland - Rev. Marshall Gibson

Advance notice:
The 14th International Gathering of Clan Macfie is to be held May 14-18, 2003 in Gatlinburg, TN, hosted by the Macfie Clan Society of America. For more information see http://www.macfiesocietyofamerica.com or contact:
Jim McAfee, Macfie Clan Society of America
420 Ash Dr.; Baxter, TN 38544 USA
jgmcafee@tnaccess.com


SNIPPETS

The world and his wife will be welcomed to Colonsay this weekend, to help Georgina' celebrate her birthday; consideration is being given to a commemorative edition of Mike Yellowlees' new book "So Strange a Monster as a Jesuiste" for a very specialist group; a photographer was on Oransay, preparing material for a Bill Oddie wildlife programme in July; volunteers are being sought for an expedition on 9 May to remove our redundant TV relay equipment from Jura and to restore the site; Jenny "Machrins" is rumoured to be the new school cook; Andrew MacGregor has been seen assembling a rope-ladder, so "Heidi" must be close at hand; Rev. Ritchie (former Interim Moderator) was present at an Historical Society meeting in Lochgilphead recently and kindly presented a photo of the late Rev. Ron Crawford, the last resident minister here - the last Board of Management meeting that Ron was able to attend was 28 June 1988, when the business included the following item: "A letter from 'John the Christian' to 'Rev. Bishop of Scalasaig' was noted; it was based upon Revelations, suggested that Russia would be destroyed in a coming war and that the Roman Catholic Church would die off. No action taken." Illness meant that Ron had to leave his beloved island and he is pictured here at a Christmas meal with mainland friends not long before he went to his reward.



TOPICAL LETTERS

For convenience of readers, letters now appear in two sections. Anything to do with current events appears here, and letters to do with the Magazine section or historical research etc. will appear at the end of the Magazine section.



Dear Kevin
Having just visited Colonsay on our new boat Lorn Rival just before Easter, we wonder, have any of the business people on Colonsay ever considered in investing in permanent moorings and/or putting forward an application to the Crown Estate and/or Argyll and Bute Council?

Many sailors would love to visit Colonsay and spend their well earned monies on the island but currently Scalasaig is not very boat friendly. Many islands on the westcoast of Scotland have invested in such moorings and as a result get regular visitors visiting the islands which will have an enormous effect on the economies of the islands.

The moorings and visitor pontoons are put down and maintained by various bodies. Some moorings - usually council maintained - are free. Others maintained by a local body - e.g. Tobermory Harbour Authority - will cost you up to £10 per night, with various facilities onshore usually available as part of the deal. Some pubs and hotels also lay visitors moorings. These are often free provided you have a meal.

Examples:
Jura 8 moorings - 15 tonnes each. No pickups. Owned and maintained annually by Argyll and Bute Council. No charge for an overnight stay. Currently the maintenance is contracted to a local diver who is also a local fisherman who owns his own trawler which is moored in the bay. They were inspected and maintained last year and we have been assured that they will again be inspected for this year and any necessary maintenance / replacements attended to. The Jura Development Agency are committed to ensuring that the moorings remain and are well maintained.
Port Ellen now has pontoons with electricity and water. This is a vast improvement on the visitors moorings, which were very exposed and a long dinghy ride out. Operated by Port Ellen Harbour Association.
Gigha -15 tonne mooring buoys, no pickups. Owned and maintained annually by Argyll and Bute Council. (NB - Argyll & Bute tell us they put out the maintenance of their remaining moorings to tender each Spring. All moorings are then inspected by the successful contractor(s) and any essential maintenance/replacement work carried out).

There are visitors moorings provided by the Western Isles Council at 8 different locations on the East coast of the islands from Rodel in Harris to Castelbay in Barra. max. vessel size 15 tonnes. All have pickup buoys, they are inspected annually and are free to visiting boats for a maximum of seven days.

Ian and I would love to assist Colonsay in becoming more accessible to the sailing world. Scalasaig may not be the most appropriate place for moorings but perhaps Queens Bay (signposting the paths that lead across the hill to Scalasaig)? Please let us know whether there are any other interested parties on Colonsay who would be interested in investigating this proposal with us?
Best wishes
Uta and Ian Binnie



WEDNESDAY 16th APRIL 2003
Just a quick note to draw your attention to the Sustainable Communities Project Fund - managed by Fresh Futures (a Scottish funding body set up in 2001 to offer grants to community environmental projects).

This fund exists to develop projects which demonstrate effective approaches to sustainable development under the themes of waste, energy and travel. The Sustainable Communities Project Fund is now coming to an end, but there are some unallocated funds remaining and the Sustainable Communities Project Officer is keen to hear from any community groups that have project ideas that may be eligible for funding - particularly projects concerning ENERGY and TRAVEL.

For more information contact Diane Alderdice on 0141 222 5635 or visit www.fresh-futures.org.uk/SCPF.htm.



Hi Kevin, as you know I have been trying to encourage people get up petitions for the improvement of their local exchanges. As the one run on Luing showed they not only mobilise people regarding conventional connections but when run alongside a campaign for broadband registration are a very effective way of getting all the community involved instead of fragmenting it into the broadbanders and the lowbanders.

To be honest my banging on about the state of the local exchanges has seemed a pointless endeavour until recently, I felt that it was a good thing to do on principle but that nothing much would come of it. However I was recently contacted by AIE requesting information regarding the exchanges so that they could bring pressure to bear on BT, which is a very positive development. I have also been told that the information gathered from people sending in their connection speeds is being used by civil servants in presentations to Scot. Exec. Ministers.

I have now arranged a meeting with Richard Bellingham, head of the Digital Inclusion Unit, in Oban at the end of next month. He has arranged for the meeting to be attended by the civil servant that specialises in this area. At it the petitions that have been completed will be presented and there will be a chance to put our case for local improvements.

I will be raising not only the need to improve the exchanges so the majority can have decent conventional connections but also the unfairness of the 30 registration trigger point for the HIE broadband scheme. I am connected to an exchange even smaller than Colonsay's, even if we all registered we wouldn't reach 30 and you are almost in the same situation.

I know that a petition for Colonsay has been thought about and for one reason or another hasn't happened but I hope the above will persuade people to think again. Apart from anything else it's a great opportunity for the person organising it to meet very influential people in Digital Scotland.

Hope to hear from you soon, Richard

http://www.2000friends.co.uk/ website
http://pub122.ezboard.com/b2000friends forum
http://www.hie.co.uk/broadband/registration register for broadband with Highland and Island Enterprises

NOTE: Angela is now organising a Colonsay petition - please consider supporting it - Editor.



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JOHN LOWRIE MORRISON EXHIBITION

On Friday May 9, the Jolomo exhibition will be launched on board MV "Isle of Mull", on her way to Colonsay. The following picture has been lifted from an invitation received by the editor, and is entitled "Balnahard Beach, Colonsay", oil, 24 x 24 inches.




THE YELLOW FLAG IRIS

The following item is from the current Sea-Rivers Newsletter (Issue 100), which is an e-zine of particular interest to anglers but covering all aspects of the aquatic environment. It is sent free by email and subscription details will be easily found through "Google".

The Yellow Flag Iris has numerous wide flat sharp-edged leaves which are sword-shaped. During the spring its bright yellow flowers are in bloom.

Irises are well known to gardeners. There are many different horticultural varieties as the flowers have splendid colours which adorn gardens from May to September. The flower has a history as the King of France wore it on his helmet when leaving for the crusades and henceforth it was called "the fleur de lis" and used as a symbol on the French flag and became the emblem of French royalty.

This is not the only version. Some think that Clovis, king of the Franks, on the evening before the battle of Vouillé in 507 walked along the banks of the Vienne trying to find a crossing point. A deer frightened by his army led them to the crossing point where many irises were growing. As the army had found the spot to cross Clovis dismounted and picked the yellow flower which he wore as a symbol of his future victory. Having triumphed over Alaric, Clovis used the yellow flag iris as an emblem of the monarchy. The flag displayed three yellow flag irises which were called "Lys d'or" (golden lilies).

Iris pseudacorus has several names : yellow flag iris, yellow iris, marsh iris, etc. Its bitter sap and roots rich in tannin were used in former times.

This plant is easily recognizable by its wide long sword-shaped leaves which are all situated around the same point (like a gladiola). It grows from a rhizome which bears a network of roots which intertwine at the surface of the earth. This plant can grow to a height of 50 cms to 1 m (sometimes 1m 50). The flowers which have no scent have six yellow parts, 3 stamens and 3 sepals. They are grouped into twos or threes on a long rather flat stem. The seeds are grouped in a three sectioned capsule. The rhizome allows the plant to multiply easily.

The yellow flag iris grows in wetlands : marshes, wetland meadows, ditches, canals, ponds and water-courses. Near ponds it grows on the bank which is most exposed to the wind. Surface ripples tend to erode the banks and the planting of this iris prevents damage. Moreover it is not invasive and it develops slowly and its spread is easily controlled. It also protects river banks in the same way. It is used for rivers in plains especially for slow flowing stretches. Its main enemy is the rodent: muskrats and coypus eat the rhizomes. This is why they are often planted in a tube of wire netting to protect them (at least partially) from rodents.

Bernard Breton
breton@sea-river.com

McNEILL HERITAGE

Many thanks to Roderick Drummond of New Zealand, who has very kindly forwarded a wonderful package of McNeill materials. The list includes entries from Burke's Landed Gentry and Burke's Extinct Peerage, copies of family trees of N.Z. McNeills descended from Alexander McNeill (1834-1915), who married Mary Bryce Leighton (1840 - 1902). Also a copy of the tree of reputed descendants of Lord Colonsay (1793 - 1874) by his union with Hannah Craig. There is also a note of the issue of Sir John McNeill (1795 - 1883), and of Forbes McNeill (1801 - 1845) by Beatrice McDougall (1803-1859) - could this have been the dowager for whom Baleromindubh was built?

Other material includes notices of Major William Bannerman Craig D.S.O., R.M.O., 22nd Battalion A.I.F. and his service at the Somme, also grand-daughter of James Craig (1835 - 1910), Alison Drummond (1903 - 1984) and grand-daughter of Alexander McNeill (1834 - 1915) Thyra Acres (1910 - 1994). Alison and Thyra were both active as writers and in the fields of art. There are two family letters concerning Lord Colonsay's union with Hannah Craig, some interesting articles about Sir John Carstairs McNeill (including the auctioneer's catalogue account in connection with the sale of his V.C.) and two tributes to Alexander McNeill.

This obituary is taken from "The Ensign" April 1st 1915:
"Many of the older generation in Southland will learn with regret of the death of Mr Alexander McNeill, which occurred at Wanganul yesterday. The late Mr McNeill was born in 1833, and had therefore attained the age of 82 years. Born in Scotland, he was educated for the army and in due course joined the Royal Engineers. As a captain in that branch of the service he served through the Indian Mutiny. Some years after the Mutiny had been quelled Captain McNeill found it necessary on the score of his wife's health to leave India and he redeemed his commission and came out to New Zealand with his brother Malcolm, now Sir Malcolm McNeill, of Edinburgh. The two brothers took up the Ardlussa Estate in Southland, and though Malcolm had returned to Scotland the late mr McNeill carried on the estate until 1879 and then removed to Wanganul where he lived until his death. Upon the death of his brother, Sir John McNeill [Alexander became the senior member of the family; and after Alexander's own death] Carstairs, of Silverstream, Wellington now succeeds to that honour. Mr McNeill leaves five sons and five daughters to mourn his death, the only daughter in the South Island being Mrs Denniston Cuthbertson, Invercargill. For some years past it has been Mr McNeill's practice to spend part of the summer with his daughter here, and he thus renewed many old friendships, while those who had the privilege of meeting him will not soon forget his agreeable personality, and his interesting conversation, enriched with the experiences of a long and eventful life and enlivened from the resources of a well-stored mind."

The following article is rather more informative and is taken from a series called "The Conquerors - Saga of the Stations", written by "The Wanderer" and published on 28 January 1935 in "Southland Times".

ARDLUSSA
Captain Alexander McNeill and his brother, Malcolm, acquired Ardlussa, a station situated on the banks of the Mataura river, very shortly after the Maori Wars had died down. They were both soldiers who hailed from a family of distinguished warriors whose daring deeds and adventures are oft-times mentioned in Highland history and legend. Their brother, Sir John McNeill, V.C., was at that period equerry to her Majesty Queen Victoria, and before coming to New Zealand, CaptainMcNeill had belonged to the Royal Engineers. He and his brothers had fought through the tragic Indian Mutiny. He had a large family which are now married and settled throughout New Zealand, and he was one of the pioneer-squatters who fought and failed in early Southland. He became a runholder when the Great Slump and the Old Man flood were ahead of him, and when scab, pluer, and the "Doze" were killing off the sheep by the thousands. Then came the reign of the rabbits and with all these evils to contend with Ardlussa did not prove a paying proposition.

Captain McNeill was a big man in every way - in stature and in mind, and he was rightly proud of his illustrious family and his Highland blood. Oft-times he would be seen, striding along over his vast property, or mounted on a horse, dressed in Highland costume fashioned from the McNeill plaid, and many a queer story is told concerning him; how a man going to work at Benmore station had a great difficulty in finding his way there, and on being asked why he had not made enquiries at other stations replied: "Well, I did go up to one house a long way back, but I saw a huge woman on the verandah with a very short skirt and bared knees, and she was actually smoking. Will, I did not like the look of her, so I came away." This so-called woman was Captain McNeill in his kilts.

The Invercargill Land Office supplies the following information concerning Ardlussa and the transfer from Captain McNeill to Robert Chapman, who held the homestead block until Ardlussa run was transformed into the Ardlussa settlement:

Ardlussa - acquired in 1867 by Robert Wilson deceased, and acquired in 1869 by Alexander and Malcolm McNeill. Acquired by Australian Mortgage, Land and Finance Company in 1879 and acquired by Chapman in 1884. Run 394 - area 22,500 acres.

Captain McNeill, like other squatters, imported rabbits and bred them as a hobby, and it is a fact that he sacked a man he employed for the great crime of shooting one of his pets. When the Old Man flood came down and swept over the land, Captain McNeill was heard to remark that there was no doubt what-so-ever that this flood would cause a great deal of havoc but he added "If it will drown some of these damned rabbits, it will do more good than harm." In an old hotel called the Pyramid many men were sitting on the raised verandah watching the many waters swirl past, and with rakes and sticks were hauling in rabbits by the score as they were swept by in the raging flood. Every time they succeeded in making a good haul, it was drinks all round, shouted for by the lucky angler. The old Pyramid Hotel has long since gone from the land, but there still remain a few of the men who remember and repeat the great times and merry meetings which would take place there. Amongsat the men who knew Ardlussa and the surrounding district in the oild days is Mr S Stevens, of Mossburn, one-time shepherd at Ardlussa, who relates the following narrative:

"I left England for New Zealand in 1874, and arrived at Lyttelton at the end of that year. I first of all settled up near Lake Coleridge, and worked there, but afterwards hearing about Southland, I decided to come down and see this new province. I arrived here in 1877, and obtained work at Ardlussa. I remember that the old residents of Southland were still talking a bout the Old Man flood of 1863, and telling me that there had never been anything to equal it. But saw the 1878 Old Man flood, and that was enough for me. Ardlussa was a beautiful place. The house was situated on a spur above the Mataura river; below they had a boat. Captain McNeill would have two gardeners working to beautify his home, and they put in plantations of trees for shelter-belts, orchard and strawberry beds and flower garden. Captain McNeill was a fine upstanding man who had been through the Indian Mutiny, and he and his family were all great riders. He had a splendid horse named Tasman.

"At the station when I was there, was a certain Sergeant McPherson who had been through the Indian Mutiny with Captain McNeill, and on one occasion, when quelling an attack, they had been very hard pressed and had stood back to back to protect each other from the enemy. Sergeant McPherson afterwards became the first schoolteacher in Lumsden. On Ardlussa there were about 20,000 half-bred Merino sheep, and many cattle; but many of the cattle had gone wild. I will remember the great Old Man flood of 1878. The snow started falling in early Julu, and the thaw did not set in until September. It was really a series of floods from then until well on into October. I used to go for the mail once a week and the snow was breast-high, but before the thaw set in, one of the McNeill children was born, and I had to go all the way to Waikuia for the doctor. A slow journey it was, and when I got there the doctor wondered if we could manage to return to Ardlussa, and we did, though the snow was breast-high on the horses. There were wonderful animals bred in the old days, and they plunged and plodded on, and we eventually arrived at the station in good time. The thaw started with a warm nor'-wester one afternoon in early September, and I remember an old rabbiter telling Captain McNeill that if the wind continued they would have a bigger flood than they had in 1863 by next morning. Captain McNeill said: "Good luck if it's from terrace to terrace, so long as it plays havoc with the rabbits." Next morning from the heights of the Ardlussa homestead all around was a hunge inland sea. People reported great catches of rabbits, especially from the verandah of the old Pyramid Hotel where, armed with hooked sticks and rakes and forks, they were scooping up rabbits by the score as the flood waters rushed by. Shortly after this flood went down, we had another flood, and still more, and there was absolutely no hope whatever of saving the sheep.

"In 1879 Captain McNeill disposed of Ardlussa to the Australian Mortgage, Land and Finance Company, and he and his family went down to Invercargill, where they resided for a while at Kenilworth, the old home of the well-known McKellar family. The McNeills afterwards went up north to the Wanganul district, where they remained until the death of both Mrs and Captain McNeill, and now the large family who were at the Ardlussa Station are scattered all over New Zealand."

Note: The original Ardlussa, in Jura, had been purchased from John McLean of Loch Buie by Donald McNeill of Colonsay in 1737. It became attached to the Colonsay estate and was included in John McNeil's purchase of 1805. When his son Alexander married, in 1830, John McNeill settled Colonsay upon him, to accompany Gigha which had been gifted by his new father-in-law; Alexander completed the set when he purchased Ardlussa from his father in 1835. Unhappily, the Colonsay part of the estate was by now saddled with enormous and increasing debt, so as soon as his father died Alexander sold Colonsay to his brother Duncan. Although Duncan had hitherto occupied Ardlussa and had built the present mansion house, ownership of Ardlussa was retained by Alexander.

When Alexander, together with his wife and two daughters, was lost in the wreck of the "Orion" in 1850, Ardlussa fell to be administered by trustees, with limited succession to Alexander's nineteen year old son, John Carstairs McNeill. His orphaned siblings included sixteen-year old Alexander and eleven year old Malcolm as well as two others. Things went badly with Ardlussa under the trustees - it failed first as a sheep farm, then as a deer forest, then again under sheep, was then sold in 1854, then re-purchased by the family in 1858 and was only finally sold off in 1874. As far as the youngsters were concerned, it had been lost whilst they were still in their minority and it must have been a heavy blow for the younger Alexander McNeill when he lost the second Ardlussa too, after the disastrous Old Man flood.


RESEARCH NOTES from Scott Buie

Scott Buie, editor of the Jura Newsletter, has been undertaking research here in Scotland and has very kindly kept an eye open for Colonsay-related archive material. Some of this material is new to these pages, and all of it is useful as a reference tool. A very interesting reference in 1711 confirms your editor's growing conviction that the MacPhee family had removed to Baleraomin at an early date and remained there for many generations, as tacksmen. It begins to seem as if they will have been there from about 1616, and that they perhaps exchanged residences with Colla Ciotach MacDonald at that time. Colla's mother and extended family appear to have been based at Dun Cholla whilst the MacPhees were still at Dun Eibhinn, but further confirmation would be helpful. Many thanks to Scott for the following invaluable contribution:

1696-1702 (I neglected to write down the specific date) Bond. Donald Kentivish alias McBruig in Scallasage in Collinsay to Neil McDuffie in Islay. [NAS.SC/51/48/4]
1711 Nov 7 Marriage contract written 1711 Jul 1. Donald McDuffie in Keilloran in Colonsay and Anna McCallum daughter to deceased Zachariac McCallum of Porltalloch with consent of her mother Jean Campbell. Giving consent: Donald and John McDuffie in Ballireamin in Colonsay, Archibald McIlvoil in Ballinharid, Ferquhard McIlvoil there, Donald McDuffie in Skerrolls in Islay, Angus McDuffie in Knockrom in Jura and Duncan McDuffie in Coanaspie in Islay; Anna McCallum, Archibald McCallum of Strondour, Donald McCallum in Karnaim, her brother, Donald McCallum of Poltalloch and Archibald McCallum his eldest son. [NAS.SC/54/12/6] [NAS.SC/%!/48/6/490-496]
1733 Jan 18 Heritable bond. Lochbuy and Colonsay concerning Ardlussa in Jura. [NAS.SC/51/48/12/313]
1736 Allen McLean of Kilmore to Malcolm McNeill of Colonsay. Bond. Witnessed at Killorane in Colonsay by Archibald McNeill brother germane to said Malcolm McNeill and James Moor schoolmaster. [NAS.SC/51/48/13/298]
1737 Minutes of the sale of Ardlussa on Jura by Lochbuie to Colonsay. [NAS.SC/51/48/13/429]
1751 Valuation Roll of Argyll, Parish of Kilchattan, Donald McNeill Owner. Deed. (Placenames of Colonsay listed) [NAS.SC/51/50/1/512]
1772 Jan 17 Mssrs Skifinton Smith and Jamieson of Laird in Ireland against Donald McLarty skipmaster in Colonsay. Summons. [NAS.SC/54/2/114]
1772 Feb 14 Archibald McNeill of Oronsay against Duncan Campbell Feolin Jura bill dated May 1766 and Archibald McCranie bill dated Apr 1765. [NAS.SC/54/2/114]
1775 Jun 16 Joseph Morrison tobacconist in Glasgow against debtors in Collinsay viz Neil Currie in Maclerenie and Allan MacLean merchant in Collinsay. Debt. Witnesses to execution: Duncan and Malm McKellar (no residence given). [NAS.SC/54/2/125]
1775 Aug 18 Hector Graham heir of the deceased Charles Graham in Balliviccar Islay against Angus Graham tenant in Collinsay now in Mull. Summons. [NAS.SC/54/2/125]
1775 Nov 29 Archd and Mary MacIlivine (MacIliririe?) children of deceased Duncan McIlvine(?) late in Collinsay against John Buie in Knockvorigan. Donald McDuffie also defender (marked out with note "McDuffie left the country"). Summons. Debt. [NAS.SC/54/2/124]
1777 Apr 4 Warning of removal. Archibald McNeill of Colonsay against tenants in Ardlussay, Knockintavill, and Carn in Jura. [NAS.SC/54/2/131]
1794 Apr 4 Archibald McNeill of Colonsay against Allan McDougall and Malcom Shaw of Knockintavill in Jura. Summons. Warning of removal. [NAS.SC/54/2/182]
1794 Jun 16 William Urquhart shoemaker in Edinburgh against John McNeill tacksman of Oronsay. Summons. Debt. Witnesses: Donald McCaffer and John McKay both residents of Kilchoman. [NAS.SC/54/2/185]
1797 Mar 3 James Rankin tobacconist in Glasgow against Malcom McMillan merchant in Colonsay. Summons. Debt. Witnesses: Archd Buie and Archd Shaw of Ballochroy in Islay. [NAS.SC/54/2/191]
1797 Mar 29 Malcom McNeil in Oronsay against Angus Leitch of Kenuachrich. Summons. Warning of Removal. Witnesses to execution: John Gilles in Kenuachrich and Donald McTavish in Crinan. [NAS.SC/54/2/191]


NEWS FROM RON ARMSTRONG

Dear Kevin and Freens at Colonsay,
It is a wee while since I brought up the Colonsay page on my computer, so I was pleasantly surprise (delighted in fact) when I saw such an ambitious and informative website, much more so than the last time I scanned the Colonsay website. I did not even know about the Corncrake, l but I remember seeing and hearing a corncrake when we were staying in the Baptist Manse and by dint of patience and slow creeping round corners of the house, we frequently saw the beautiful creature. I hope his descendants are still around.

Well this is Ron Armstrong, Baptist Minister, and frequent visitor to the island, but not lately I am afraid - the trouble is that ten years ago we retired and came to live in Somerset, near Bristol. We love our wee retirement house here, but we are sorry to be so far away from all our kith and kin friends, including many on Colonsay. I hope we can make it soon again.

I contacted Eleanor McNeil about a month ago, but it seemed the Baptist Manse was fully booked for this year. Rita and I would love to come, but it is now 600 miles each way, and that is a lot of mileage to tackle in a wee car and we are now both in our Seventies. We have been flying to Edinburgh a couple of times to see our families, but that means we are stuck without a car which then limits our mobility to places like Colonsay. I keep meaning to enquire about the feasability of putting the car onto the train which would deliver us right to the keyside at Oban. This would be expensive but it would enable us to visit the island we love, so I am still making enquiries. [Sadly - no longer an option - Editor]

Some of the senior citizens on Colonsay will remember the Armstrongs. We paid our first visit to the Baptist Manse about 1958/9 - we were nearly cheated of that holiday because there was a seaman`s strike announced just the day after we planned to come across...so we immediately brought the date of travel back two days and managed to get to Colonsay. The clerk at the MacBrayne`s office where I was making the booking said severely "Well the boat is sailing on Wednesday, but the strike takes place the next day and we don`t know how long you will have to wait at Colonsay to return". I said, "Look I need a holiday and so does my family and we are not going to be cheated out of our Colonsay holiday by a little thing like a nation-wide N.U.S. Strike". "But, but..." he protested...I continued "So long as we get to Colonsay OK, I don`t care how long we will be stranded there - I wouldn`t mind being the Baptist minister on Colonsay for a couple of years". So we hastily packed, got the train to Greenock (we lived in Glasgow then) and caught the boat OK. We spent that night tied up at Mull - the captain insisted we leave the boat overnight since she was not licenced to carry sleeping passengers (!).

So he radioed ahead to book us two beds at Port Askaig, we got to bed at the hotel at 1 a.m. we were wakened by the alarm clock (kindly loaned by the manager) at 6 am. By the bedside was a thermos full of tea, with a few biscuits and the bill - a note said, "Just leave the money on the table".

When we arrived Finlay was able to squeeze us and our pram onto his bus, and delivered us at the Baptist Manse. There was hardly any food in the pantry, we didn`t have a car, so Rita and the bairns went to bed for a couple of hours, and I shouldered my rucksack and hiked up over the hills by the shortcut to Scalasaig. Two shoppers were asking (in Gaelic) the position about sugar and salt if the strike was going to last. I managed to buy a few essentials and hiked back to my starving family.

We had a great holiday, even if some foodstuffs ran a bit low during the strike (porridge three times a day is very satisfying). Unfortunately the strike did not last, and we had to return to Glasgow at the scheduled time I was due to finish my holiday (shame). So thanks Kevin and all others who are busy preparing the website, and thanks for those beautiful photographs - I just feel like getting the next train to Oban and catching the boat in the morning. Family news - we had two children when we first arrived on Colonsay, Duncan and Helen. The first is now a computer wizard with his own company and lives in Edinburgh with our only grandson Colin and wife, Jaqui. Helen married Douglas Drysdale and they begat two daughters (our granddaughters). Douglas and Helen worked as missionaries for seven years in Zaire (now Congo), and then they came home again to Dunfermline where I was minister.

One of those granddaughters gave birth to our only great-grandchild last year, wee Matthew Thompson. Douglas is a social worker, Helen is nurse in a clinic at the West of Fife main hospital, Esther is a dental nurse-receptionist (she is mother of Matthew), and Joanna is finishing her training to be a childrens` nurse quite soon, she is living in Edinburgh.

While we working at Cathcart Baptist Church our next two bairns were born, but I will tell you more about them next time (if Kevin agrees) - suffice to say the oldest one is a teacher living near us here in the south, they have no children, it is great that we see Martin quite a lot. Our no. 4 child, Andrew who was bright as a button, died of leukaemia after two weeks illness only. That was in 1986 and he was only 24, married for 18 months " and our hearts are still aye sair".

Rita is calling me to dinner - so that`s all for now ffffolks.
Blessings on you all and greetings to all who remember us.
Ron and Rita Armstrong


WEBSITE TO EXPLORE: "The Hope"

Many thanks to Elle Blue for giving us this link to the passenger list of the "Hope". It is a link we have promoted before, but many of our Colonsay readers will not have had computers at that time. So, even if it is not the "Hope" that you are looking for, just follow this link and explore - it must be almost ten years ago that this site brought Colonsay folk in touch with the pioneer cemeteries of Wood Islands, Little Sands etc. It was from that beginning that the pattern and timescale of the Colonsay diaspora was re-established.

The passenger list for the HOPE (1848 to Pictou,NS) & others, is at:

http://www.rootsweb.com/~pictou/mainpass.htm






Regulars

Readers Write


NOTICE:
Any correspondence relating to current events will hopefully be found in the first part of the "Corncrake" after the News section. Items in connection with history, genealogy etc. will appear here.





Hi Kevin,
I enjoyed your latest Corncrake as always. What a wonderful service to all family history hunters from around the world.

I had a call and visit from Bryce McMillan and family whose letter you printed. I was able to share information with him because I corresponded with a McMillan descendant who wrote to the Corncrake a few years ago. She has since passed away. I sent him out to see Rusk's Cemetery where Laughlan McMillan and his wife are buried. I also showed them the farm where they lived and the house in Paisley where Laughlan's daughter Hester McKechnie lived.

Another correspondant interested me too.Could you send me the email for Jean Jane (nee McNeill) who is the great great granddaughter of Sir Forbes McNeill? She might be interested to know I live near The Corran where Alexander McNeill and his wife Hester Law Howard McNeill lived in Ontario. She mentions Hester as being the daughter of Forbes which matches with my information. I have just finished writing a chapter in Book #6 about their home The Corran as seen through the eyes of Margaret McNeill who with her husband John Galbraith managed Alexander McNeill's farm in Elderslie. Margaret is one of the main characters in my latest narrative.

Book #5 "The Scooptown Diary" is at the printers. It is the story of the Blue Family of Colonsay who inherited a one-hundred acre farm from Donald Blue. Five of the family came from Colonsay and divided it into 20 acre farms and lived there the rest of their days. The story is told by way of diary entries in Hugh Blue 's diary [if he had kept one]. It has special appeal to Mary Snyder because these are her ancestors.
Mary MacKay

[Note: Have forwarded Jean Jane's contact details. Mary's latest work will be reviewed here shortly d.v. and copies will be available from the bookshop. To receive a copy by post please write to the Editor of The Corncrake - orders will be passed to the appropriate place, depending where you live. Price (and postage) to be advised - will be within reason - the Editor]



Dear Sir or Ms.:
I have been searching for quite some time for my ancestor, Hector McNeill. Hector was born 12/12/1785. He came to North Carolina with his brother at a very young age. Hector is recorded on the 1810 Muhlenburg County Kentucky census. On this same cenus there is an Alexander McNeill that is older. This very well may be his older brother.

During my searches for Hector, I have found many Hector McNeills. So far they have had the wrong birthdate or spouse. At my local library, I read that many McNeills from the Isle of Barra were Catholic and spelled thier names MacNeil. In addition, many McNeills from the Isle of Colonsay were Protestant and spelled their names MacNeill. From this information, I wanted to search in the Isle of Colonsay first because my family is Protestant and Hector's name has two ls on his tombstone.

Last but not least, I am very interested in the ship, George Washington. This is in the time period in which Hector and his brother left the "old country".

If you know of any resources that may be available to help find the family of Hector please contact me. Please accept my thanks in advance for any and all help. I am grateful.
Donald A. McNeill

[In all honesty, the spelling of the surname is not a great help - there are brothers living yet who choose to use differing versions, often as a result of a mere slip of the pen by a minister or registrar. The religious angle is much more useful - the McNeills of the South lost the Faith at a relatively early date, not least because of their proximity to the Campbells, by whom they were enthralled. The MacPhees in Colonsay remained stalwart until the early 1600's and were then succeeded as lairds by the MacDonalds - thus until 1690 Colonsay remained Catholic and this partly explains the antipathy that existed between the islanders and the McNeills. If I were looking for a Hector McNeill of staunch Protestant tradition who emigrated to N.C. at such an early date, I would definitely be looking for someone from Kintyre, Knapdale, Gigha or Colonsay, very probably well-connected with a major branch. Hopefully some of our readers will be able to make suggestions - if not, please raise this again in the autumn and I will try to search through the archived material here. Hector is a name closely associated with Castle Sween and therefore is quite well researched - Editor].



Hello from Vancouver, Canada,
In your excellent and informative web-site, you ask for details of persons that left Colonsay in the 1800s. This one may be of interest to you.

I have an ancestor named Malcolm McPhee who hailed from Colonsay according to family tradition. Apparently he went to Blairs College just west of Aberdeen to become a priest as a young man. Unfortunately it did not work out, he became a Protestant and returned to Colonsay. Family oral tradition says that because of his change to Protestantism the family disowned him and he went back to Deeside where he married an Isabella Webster. He died in 1869 and his wife died in 1888. (I might be able to find more on him from Aberdeenshire records) They had several children.

Our guestimate is that he might have been born around 1810 in Colonsay (either to Malcolm and Anne MacPhee or to Donald and Marry MacPhee - both of Riskbuie - from your 1841 census material). Our questions are as follows
1) Were the MacPhees Catholic? (giving credibility to the family story)
2) Is there any record of a Malcolm MacPhee born around 1810 to either of the above families or any other for that matter. (Presumably it would have to be from baptismal records)

We plan to visit Colonsay this summer - it is one of the western islands that are new to me. I have happy memories of climbing in Skye, Rum and Mull in my youth - not that long ago!.
Best regards, Ian Paterson

[1. As far as I know, it would be very unlikely for there to be any practicing Catholics in Colonsay by 1810, but there are suggestions that a Congregationalist church had a number of adherents, hinting that old tradition had survived in many households. The Presbyterian faith does not ever seem to have taken firm root, partly because there was an inadequate ministry - as a result, the Baptist Missionaries of 1821 found themselves warmly welcomed, and the Disruption came and went without a flicker of interest locally. It is therefore just possible that Malcolm was drawn by an older tradition; one might imagine that he would however have been ill-received on his return not because he had re-adopted Presbyterianism but because he had "wavered" in the first place.
2.One Malcolm McDuffie was baptised on July 2 1810, son of Duncan McDuffie and Pegy Bell. Another, on June 29 1812, to Niel McDuffie and Janet McFarlan.

This is a very interesting story and it would be good to know if Blairs College or any other agency's records can shed further light. If the story were to be true, it would have quite remarkable implications - it would lead to the reappraisal of our concept of the social and cultural mores of that period. Please do keep us posted - Editor]



Hi Kevin
I haven't written for along time and I hope all is well. I think it is time to put away my ROOTS touque as it is warming here.

I read with interest your answer to Bryce McMillan and have answered him personally but thought I would post this to Corncrake. I am thinking the Ann McMillan of whom to speak (ie. Malcolm McMillan and Cathrine McAlder had a son Lauchlan baptised here Feb 23 1806; they were married Jan 6 1805. Their daughter Annie Aug 16 1808 was followed by Niel jun 29 1812; there is a Cathrine McMillan died at Kilchattan Nov 22 1852 at 82 years.) could be my Ann McMillan who married my Malcolm McCannell.I have them just below on their marker in Ontario Canada with first son Neil.

NORTH BRANCH CEMETERY
Martintown, Charlottenburgh Township
Glengarry County, Ontario

In Memory Of / Malcolm McCannel / died July 1, 1874 / aged 67 years / Also his wife / Ann McMillan / died Oct. 25, 1889 / aged 80 years / Neil McCannel / died Feb. 17, 1883 / aged 46 years

take care
Judy in Canada



We will be happy to receive more letters and, as always, the editor would like to hear from anyone who might wish to contribute. Individual articles on news or local events will always be welcome.
Contact

the Editor - byrne@colonsay.org.uk


Editorial Policy

Corncrake is published to keep all our friends in touch with life on the island. Contributions are invited and welcomed.
Fortnightly editions will carry details of coming events, special offers etc. Please send letters and proposals for specific articles to
the Editor
Brief genealogical and related queries are also welcome from Colbhasachs overseas, as are obituaries and family traditions relating to Colonsay emigrants.
This publication will hopefully develop to reflect the interests of the readership so please feel free to make your contribution. The magazine section needs articles on flora, fauna, geology, fishing, crofting etc.