COLONSAY VILLAGE HALL GRAND OPENING PARTY

The official opening party of our new village hall has been a huge success and several hundred people had a wonderful weekend on the island.

An expanded Hall Committee had spent almost all of the previous week counting the supplies - chairs, borrowed plates, meat for roasting, bottles of wine, cans of beer and new potatoes. All the ingredients for a delicious feast were finally assembled on the island by the night of Friday 19 May. Guests arrived, mostly by ferry from Oban, but some by fishing boat via Islay, on one of Colonsay's most beautiful evenings. The general confusion at the pier was heightened by the simultaneous arrival of four huge lorries full of building material for the new water works and by the fact that one heavily loaded car had to pushed up the link span off the ferry.

The agencies that contributed to the £370 thousand New Hall are Scottish Council for Voluntary Organizations, Argyll & Bute Council, Argyll & the Islands Enterprise and the Scottish Executive. Most of these were well represented at the party and were made enormously welcome; for some individuals this was their first chance to visit the island. There were brief speeches from Alex Howard, Chairman of the Hall Committee, Dougie McGilvary, the oldest inhabitant of the island who cut the "opening" ribbon, from Brian Wilson MP, from John Bretherton of SCVO and Iain Gillies the architect for the project, whose firm have given the Hall a new trophy.


Government Minister Brian Wilson, whose encouraging remarks gave much food for thought.

A damp Saturday morning, gradually turned to a pleasant afternoon and evening and everyone was able to arrive at the party dry shod, to be greeted at the door with a glass of bubbly. The meal was served immediately after the brief opening ceremony. The list of delights on offer included pork, ham, salmon, lamb, venison, prawns, new potatoes, tomatoes and fine green salad. Vegetarians were not neglected and there were sausages and pizzas for children. Most of the meat and fish was donated through the good offices of Graham McWhirter. It was cooked in ovens all around the island, under a complicated and carefully timed system, masterminded by Hazel McGee and with Rhona delivering the uncooked dishes and collecting the cooked ones.. A splendid display of "puddings" were also brought from all over the island. Almost everyone made some sort of contribution, from the lending of tablecloths and dishes to the washing of potatoes and salads to the final task of washing and sorting dishes and cutlery. The list of helpers is too long to quote here and if we did we would surely cause offence by leaving someone out. Suffice to say that everything went smoothly and looked lovely; everyone had plenty to eat - even seconds were available - and that the speed of the service both at the food table and at the bar was a matter of favourable comment. The bar was organised and run by Angus & Helen McPhee, ably assisted by Dr John Curry who says he never had a bar job as a student and may have missed his vocation!


As the evening progressed, some of the ladies started to flag and it was hard to get partners. No problem for some of our energetic youngsters, always ready to improvise! (This was an Old Time Waltz.)

The school children had specially prepared a short entertainment, which included a Gaelic song familiar to many and Hector MacFadyen and his Band came down from Oban especially to provide the music for the evening. We are grateful for his support on these occasions and his music added enormously to the general enjoyment of the evening. Kilts and party dresses were sported by many and the dancing, including a demonstration of the Posties Reel was a pleasure to watch.

The New Hall is a great local achievement and we hope this party really gave everyone the huge "thank you" which they deserve. There will be many more such happy occasions and the whole building is already proving to be an important new venue for other events such as the Exhibition of work by locals, which hung all this week in the upstairs room and was visited and admired by all the Saturday guests.

Photographs - probably people can supply their own captions! However the camera person must apologise for smudges on the final pictures as some whisky, or other liquid refreshment appears to have splashed the camera lens.


Construction News:

The project at Ben Odhran is bigger than originally envisaged. Quite literally, since all the new windows are too large and the building is having to be quarried away to accommodate them. Hughie and Jenny have started work on their foundations and the three houses already under construction are nearing completion. Work has recommenced in Oransay, and the extensive restoration of Oransay House will probably be completed this year. Andrew MacGregor is poised to make a start at any moment and there are plans to build an extension at No 1, Glas Aird. Work on the Water Treatment system will be complete in early July. Mr. Rogers and a working party are busy at the Baptist Church, where running water and w.c. have been installed, also a new floor to the vestry.


Nature Notes

The corncrake is still very audible and in all its usual haunts - up to three calling birds can be heard at one location. The seabird colonies are hives of activity, with birds almost jostling for airspace. It is understood that a population count is planned this season and one can only marvel at the logistics involved. My own amateur attempt to count the southern end of Pig's Paradise petered out at the five thousand mark… Flowers to notice now include Scarlet Pimpernel, Mountain Everlasting, Silverweed, Tormentil, Yellow Flag, Heath Spotted Orchid and Early Purple Orchid. Milk Wort is everywhere, as is Lousewort, and Butter Wort has started to appear. The Bog Bean was magnificent, Roseroot is in flower, as is Sea Campion (especially attractive in the ruins of the Priory). May is in full bloom, and Mayfly should not be far behind (about 24th May). There are a few midges, lots of lizards have been seen this year but the dragonfly is yet to appear.
STOP PRESS: 3 ringed-plover chicks have hatched and are running around on the shingle at Port Mor (trying to avoid the oyster-catchers!)


Tourist Board visits Colonsay

Mr. Fraser (Chairman) and staff members of Argyll and the Isles, Loch Lomond, Stirling & Trossochs Tourist Board (sic) were in Colonsay 12 - 14 May on a familiarisation trip. The party visited a number of historic sites and saw much of the scenery and natural history. They were made aware of the range and quality of accommodations available in the island, as well as the social and sporting facilities. The weather was magnificent and the party was clearly impressed.


Changes in "The Corncrake"

One or two readers have had trouble getting the latest issue, because their machine has elected to reload the edition it last accessed, using the cache memory. A new gizmo has been added which should overcome the problem, but any readers in doubt should use their "refresh" button whenever they wish to see the latest version of this or any site. An additional refinement will shortly make earlier editions available from our archives.


What's On in Colonsay

An exhibition of work by Colonsay and Oransay artists is open before the arrival of each ferry, and is mounted in the Pier Waiting Room.
An exhibition by CAEG is open this week in The Upper Room of the new Village Hall.
The Colonsay and Oronsay Heritage Trust is running an exhibition in the Old Waiting Room, times as advertised (usually around boat time). Colonsay House Gardens are open to the public every Wednesday, and the woodland gardens are open every day.Light lunches are available on Wednesdays, with an emphasis on organic ingredients.
There are regular BBQ's at the hotel - see notices for details.
The summer arrangements for pulpit supply are now in place. Services each Sunday are at 11.00 in Church of Scotland and 12.00 in the Baptist Church. All are welcome.
Tuesday 23 May, 8pm at New Hall - Community Council meeting to discuss Housing, Air Service, A.O.B.
Wednesday 24 May - there will be a sale of garden plants at the pier, arranged by Foreland Nurseries of Islay.
Monday 29 May is a big day - one and all are invited to the New Hall at 8pm for the concelebration of two big birthdays, Alastair Scouller and Ross Moodie.
The all-island Millenium Picnic and Party is at Seal Cottage on 17 June, following an Ecumenical Service at the Priory (by the courtesy of Mrs. F. Colburn). There is no obligation to attend the Service, but it is hoped that one and all will attend the party. Tides will permit access by vehicle or on foot, and it is hoped that boats will also be available.


Snippets:

Tillage is complete at Pairc Bhaile Mhaide, Druim Buidhe and Machrins; vegetable patches and flower gardens are being honed to perfection; it is rumoured that 5 Glassard has a new owner in prospect, as a permanent residence; there were 4 students at Alastair's Spring Gaelic Course who had Colonsay Roots; the feral cat population seems to be dwindling at last - Oransay has none, and has nesting lapwings to prove it; the boat to Oban on Sunday 21 May carried 29 cars, plus 4 lorries (including 3 artics - probably a record); a meeting in Oban on 22 May will discuss a possible air service and the Colonsay delegate is to be flown home afterwards.

The Magazine Section

The Bells of Balnahard

In Issue 7 of "The Corncrake", there was an article about the first major "clearance" from Colonsay, in the summer of 1791. In that article, reference was made to a traditional account of the departure of the Bells from Balnahard; it had been hoped that somebody might give the story in the way that they themselves heard it, but nobody came forward and therefore the one available version is given below.

The Bells were famously connected with the north end of the island ("Baille na h'Ard" = "Fermtoun at the Cape") for 250 years and more; after their departure the land was farmed as a single unit but with little success or continuity until the advent of the Hobhouse family c. 1940. Confusingly enough, the name "Bell" is an anglicized version of "MacMhaolain" (meaning "son of the tonsured man") and is the form that was favoured in Argyll; elsewhere (and more commonly) it was rendered in English as "MacMillan".

For background, it may be noted that the setting of the story is between 1791 and 1811 and seems to be associated with the lairdship of Colonel Archibald McNeill, 1773 - 1805. He had inherited from his father and married Lady Georgina Anne, daughter of George, 5th Earl of Granard (of the Forbes family that had settled in Ireland); they had no issue. We are told that he was "remembered as a popular laird."

When Archibald inherited, the American colonies were in an unhappy condition. Taxes had been rejected, and customs duties had also been refused; but the British Government had decided to try to levy just one, token duty - on tea. The Boston Tea Party of 16 December 1773 was the defiant response, leading inexorably to the Declaration of Independence, 4 July 1776. As a result, emigration ceased in 1775 and, despite Britain's humiliating surrender at Yorktown, 17 October 1781, it was not until 1783 that it was resumed. Thus it was that throughout the early years of Archibald's tenure, emigration from Colonsay failed to be an issue. It is not known if he obtained much of a dowry when he married, and it is said that his subsequent military career impaired his finances; certainly there is not much evidence of new building during Archibald's tenure. The inns at Scalasaig and Balnahard are known to have been in existence by 1769, and although the present parish church at Scalasaig was built in 1802 (to hold 400 sitters and at a cost of £444.11.6d), it was at no cost to the Estate. The architect, Michael Carmichael, had been engaged in certain projects at Inverary, and no doubt was engaged by Presbytery through the advice of Argyll's Estate. The new building was on the site of a mediaeval church (shown in Blaue's maps), but the heritor failed to improve on the original and inadequate glebe, and failed to provide a manse.

There is some evidence for Archibald's military career. Intriguingly, there was a (faulty) tradition that he was "Governor of South Carolina", and Loder suggests that Archibald "may have been on the staff of Lord William Campbell, who was Governor at the outbreak of the War of Independence in 1775". Is it possible that contacts from that period lay behind his decision to translate so many of his tenants to the Carolinas in 1791? Almost every significant member of the Argyll Colony (to North Carolina, 1737, aboard "The Thistle") had been closely connected to Archibald's family and their descendants had become very influential. At a later stage in his career, Archibald raised the 3rd Argyll Fencibles (1799) and commanded them as Colonel; it seems that his regiment was garrisoned in Gibralter 1800-1802.

Whilst Archibald pursued his military career, his farming interests were largely in the hands of his uncle and, later, his cousin. The uncle, Alexander, was tacksman of Oransay and a prominent farmer who had developed significant business interests elsewhere. In a typical reference, on 21 May 1764 he attended the public roup in Tarbert, Jura, where Black Cattle and other stock were being sold, the property of the late Archibald Campbell of Jura; Alexander was buying for his uncle at Dunollie, and bought 81 stots at a total of £238.6.6. He died in the mid-1780's and was succeeded in Oransay by his son John, born 1767. (Alexander and his wife, Mary McDougall of McDougall, plus his brother Angus ("Captain in the army") are all buried in Oransay).

In due course (1805), Archibald was to sell Colonsay to his cousin, John, for "a certain, adequate price." We can perhaps assume that John had already commenced the "improvement" of the estate by clearing the old farmsteads. That work was well advanced in the 1790's and it may have been with a view to establishing a fair price that a surveyor was engaged in 1804. The resultant (and surviving) Estate Map is actually dated 1806 but was clearly the result of planning and survey work during the tenure of Colonel Archibald. Archibald died a few years after the sale, although it is not known where he or Lady Georgina are buried.

Neither Archibald, nor his cousin John (some 20 years his junior), can have instilled total confidence in the island population. We know that "a considerable proportion of the inhabitants crossed the Atlantic" in the summer of 1791, and that "a few emigrated from Colonsay to America" in 1792; from the evidence of the master of the "General Washington" it is clear that these emigrations were forced. On the other hand, there were some earlier voluntary emigrations and within a generation there was a veritable flood. Indeed, so great was the drain upon the island population that there was a labour shortage - over a number of years in the early nineteenth century John McNeill ("The Old Laird") was doing everything possible to stem the flow.

In a future issue it is hoped to consider some of those voluntary migrants, firstly to North Carolina and later to Canada. Remaining with our present theme, it is likely that one of the first areas to feel the pressure of "improvement" was the farm at the centre of the following tale recounted by the late Andrew McNeill (in 1997):

"Did you ever here how the Bells came to leave Balnahard? Well, it was like this.... there was some sort of a dispute that they had, something to do with how the land was to be worked that year and they couldn't come to any agreement. Eventually they decided to put it to the laird, so a couple of them went down to see him in Kiloran and they explained the whole matter and asked him to make a decision. "Well", said the laird, "I am very busy just now, but I will think the matter over and do you come back in such-and-such a time (it might have been the same time and place next week or in two weeks) and I will let you have my decision." So, they went away home and came back again as was arranged to see what he had decided. "Well", he said, "I have thought about it carefully and this is what you'll do. Go you back up to your houses and pack up your traps, because there is a boat coming tomorrow to pick you up and you are all going over to Canada." And that is what they had to do. They say that they did not even come back down from Balnahard, but sailed away from the beach there and up to Oban where they joined the ship."

Although it is rather simplified, there are aspects to the tale that are revealing. Importantly, Andrew was not talking in his normal way but was using turns of phrase that were formulaic, telling the story in a certain way that suggested he was simply repeating it as it had been passed down to him. The "not coming back down" (presumably to Scalasaig) makes perfect sense, since the harbour was not yet built and since the strand at Balnahard would be very much more convenient. Above all, the underlying sense of the story is that the emigration was involuntary. It was the result of the tenants having placed themselves somehow at the disposal of the laird, possibly by failing to secure the renewal of their lease or possibly by having allowed themselves to become divided.

It is difficult to place this story in its exact historical context and it is hoped that readers may choose to comment. In my own view, the options include the 1791 and 1792 "clearances" to Wilmington, a slightly later crossing to Pictou aboard the "Hector", or the well-documented voyage of the "Spencer". I have tended to favour the "Spencer" since she did sail from Oban to Canada, and her passenger list does include a good number of MacMillans. The difficulty is that the passengers have hitherto been believed to have been voluntary migrants. There are difficulties with the other ships. The "Hector" might perhaps fit, if there were Bells or MacMillans on board; but the 1791 sailing of "General Washington" was from Colonsay to Wilmington, not Oban to Canada. On the other hand, we know nothing of who was aboard, and it is possible that the mention of Oban and Canada is a mere gloss.

Thus we need additional information on the relevant passenger lists (looking for Bells or MacMillans); and it would be helpful to know if anyone has another version of the story, perhaps one which does not mention Canada or which includes some additional information. Please do get in touch with the editor if you can make any contribution to this subject. Send your message to the Editor.


GRAVESTONE INSCRIPTIONS

Since we seem to be leading up to an article about the "Spencer" (1806) it might be useful to clear the decks. There are very few surviving (post-reformation) gravestones in Colonsay and Oransay which predate that voyage and they are thought to be as follows:
COLONSAY:
· James McNeill *
· In memory of Donald McNeill, son of Donald McNeill Schoolmaster, who died March 1795 aged 7 years
· Arch/McNeill / Alexr McNeill *
· 1789/EMV **
ORANSAY:
· 1765 Andr. Pirie and his spose Peggy McNear 1808
· --th May 1791 Here lies the corpse of Ketr. Curie spose to Hugh Curie · In memory of Niell Bell, Merchant who died 1805 aged 40 years
* date deduced from location of grave
** Perhaps MacMhuirrich, i.e. Currie; or MacMhaolain i.e. Bell/MacMillan

Website to explore

A young lady from Edinburgh was in Colonsay this week, descended from "Lady Ann McNeill" and her husband, a Brigadier. The McNeill family tree which we consulted is a rather splendid affair, going back to such origins as Aegbert I, Kenneth MacAlpine, Harald Harfagar etc. On page 49, we spotted a likely candidate in "Malcolm, Lt. Col, Brigadier General, H.E.I. Co's …"; unhappily the manuscript is a bit tricky so until it can be deciphered the jury is out … but it did lead to further research. An account of the 91st Highlanders and the Peninsula War includes an account of the promotion in the field of "the Adjutant, Lieutenant MacNeil of Colonsay" in thrilling circumstances at the passage of the Nivelle - read it at http://www.aboutscotland.com/argylls/91penin.html

Regulars

Readers Write

No letters arrived for this issue, but one or two people are planning contributions for the Magazine section. We have received a number of messages from new contacts who are researching their Colonsay ancestors (including Donald Blue, born Baleraomin 1853). Owing to virus threats, it would be helpful if new contacts could avoid adding attachments to their initial message. As mentioned in the last issue, an article upon the "Hector", "Spencer" or "Economy" would be very welcome - there is plenty of material available but not enough time to do everything. More contributions, please. Contact
the Editor - byrne@colonsay.org.uk


Photograph shows Donald Blue (front row, far right) as member of Grand Forks Police, North Dakota, 1908. Courtesy of Gary Snyder, whose wife Mary is a direct descendant.

Editorial Policy

Corncrake is published to keep all our friends in touch with life on the island. Contributions are invited and welcomed.
Fortnightly editions will carry details of coming events, special offers etc. Please send letters and proposals for specific articles to
the Editor
Brief genealogical and related queries are also welcome from Colbhasachs overseas, as are obituaries and family traditions relating to Colonsay emigrants.
This publication will hopefully develop to reflect the interests of the readership so please feel free to make your contribution. The magazine section needs articles on flora, fauna, geology, fishing, crofting etc.