3. The Corn Exchange, and Saracen's Head, St Paul's Square
The building on the left is the Corn Exchange: behind the facade is Bedford's largest public space - used for concerts and other entertainments. It's claim to fame is that it was here that Glenn Miller performed his last show in 1944 before disappearing for ever en route for Paris - the building has changed very little externally in the intervening 60 years. See more details here.
The Corn Exchange - opened in 1872 - is a typical piece of small-town architecture, exuding Victorian confidence (smugness?) in its flamboyant eclecticism. Classical details are present - look at the double pilasters, four with Corinthian-type capitals dividing the facade into three zones, two flanking each of the matching entrances. But there's no sign of any understanding of Classical proportions, or restraint! The four chimneys are particularly remarkable for their bold insistence that practicalities will not be ignored - the same daring that went into the exposed pipework of the Beaubourg (Pompidou Centre) in Paris was at work here a century earlier, perhaps.
On the right is the Saracen's Head - now trying to achieve some respectability as a "bistro-pub" - putting its former spit and sawdust image well behind it. It remains, however, an extremely ugly building - the "pediment" and the pedimental motifs above the windows do nothing to rescue it from utter mediocrity. In fact, though, it fits well with the overall hideousness of the buildings in St Paul's Square (excepting the church itself and the old Town Hall). The Pig and Whistle - described on the sign to the right as "Bedford's Premier Fun Pub" - is actually in the High Street. The name has changed since 1992, but it's stil to be avoided.
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