Chris Ensoll Mountain Guide



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Icefall Climbing

Equipment for Icefall Climbing

If you don't have any of these items, don't panic! Give us a call for advice on what to buy. Items marked * can be hired from us for £5 per item per day. Items marked # are provided free of charge if you don't have your own, and must be replaced if lost.

Boots
Leather mountaineering boots, eg La Sportiva Nepal Top Extreme, are best, but plastic boots (Koflach, Asolo, Scarpa) are also OK. Boots can be hired locally if you don't want to buy them specially for your trip, at around £10 per day.

*Crampons
These should have twelve points, and must have front points. They can be clip-on or strap-on, depending on what fits best with your boots. Anti-balling plates are recommended. Grivel G12s are ideal, and they are also suitable for general winter mountaineering. There are also specialised steep ice crampons on the market, such as Grivel Rambo.

*Ice axe/*ice hammer
Technical axe and hammer (50-55cm), with an inclined (banana) pick. A wrist loop should be fitted to all climbing tools, unless designed for "leashless" climbing.

#Climbing Harness
With adjustable leg-loops, so it can be fitted over thick clothing without removing boots and crampons, eg Black Diamond Bod style.

#Climbing Helmet

Waterproof jacket and over trousers
Trousers should have at least a knee-length zip so they can be fitted over boots and crampons, a full-length zip in the legs is preferable. The jacket should have a good hood that will fit over your helmet.

Gloves and Hat
One pair of warm ski gloves or mittens, one pair of thin fleece gloves, one warm hat (eg thin balaclava to fit under helmet), one sun hat or cap.

Rucksack
50-55 litres, eg Lowe Alpine Attack. A strong plastic liner is essential for keeping contents dry.

Gaiters
A neoprene strap is much better than a shoelace to go under the boot.

Walking poles
Transfer some of the strain from your legs to your arms.

#8' sling with screwgate karabiner

#Belay plate with screwgate karabiner
eg Black Diamond XTC.

#Ice screw & stopper
Charlet Moser Laser or Grivel Extrabite.

Prussik loops
3 prussiks if you already have them, or 4m of 5-6mm soft cord to make them up when you arrive.

Bivvi bag
Large polythene survival bag.

Headtorch with spare batteries and bulb
eg Petzl Tikka.

Glacier Glasses
plus spare pair of sunglasses if you have them. Essential to protect eyes against sun and snow glare. Glasses must fit close to your face, or have side panels to prevent light leakage.

First aid kit
Small personal pack including treatment for blisters.

Water bottle/flask
eg Nalgene, or Platypus/Camelback (better if insulated): 1 - 1.5 litres. Small stainless steel flask.

Sun screen
Factor 15 minimum for skin, plus total block for lips.

Clothing
Should include thermal top & bottom, fleece top(s) (two thin better than one thick), tracksuit trousers or lightweight trousers, walking socks, t-shirts, duvet jacket, etc. etc.

Mobile phone

Towel & wash kit

Camera

Current passport and Alpine climbing insurance

Money
Local currency can be obtained using Visa and debit cards from cash machines. Some mountain huts and telepheriques accept Visa .