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Butterfly © Jane Eborall 2005 |
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| This butterfly, which measures 4" wide by 3" high when worked in no. 20, is made in two parts. The body and lower wings are then followed by the head and upper wings which overlap the lower wings. |
| Skills Required: A knowledge of Split Rings and adding beads in various ways. To add beads to the very long picots so that they are long enough to be able to take the required number of beads, please see this advice. Also block tatting which I have altered slightly to make the pattern easier to work. |
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Abreviations |
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SR |
Split Ring | vsp | very small picot | Vlp | very long picot (length given in brackets) |
| Wsh1 | working shuttle 1 | Wsh2 | working shuttle 2 | +B | Add bead to picot before joining |
| T & C | tie and cut | ||||
| BBBB | 1 bead on Wsh1 and 3 beads on Wsh2 moved to replace picot (NB place the one bead on thread running round the hand before starting the SR). | ||||
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Add 2 beads to Wsh1 & 6 beads to Wsh2 before starting. Body and lower wings I suggest marking vsp #2 & vsp #6 with a loop of contrasting thread when they have been made. Block tatting of Ch: vsp (#1 bottom left of body - make this over a safety pin) 2 vsp 2 Change Wsh, turn work sideways Ch: 1 vsp (#7 bottom right hand side of body) 3 +(vsp middle previous row) vsp 3 +(1st vsp previous row removing safety pin) Change Wsh, turn work sideways Ch: 1 vsp 4 +(vsp middle previous row) vsp 4 +(1st vsp previous row) Change Wsh, turn work sideways Ch: 1 vsp (#6 middle right side body) 4 +(vsp middle previous row) vsp 4 +(1st vsp previous row) Change Wsh, turn work sideways Ch: 1 vsp (#2 middle left hand side body) 4 +(vsp middle previous row) vsp 4 +(1st vsp previous row) Change Wsh, turn work sideways Ch: 1 vsp 3 +(vsp middle previous row) vsp 3 +(1st vsp previous row) Change Wsh, turn work sideways Ch: 1 vsp (#3 top left hand side body) 2 +( vsp middle previous row) vsp 2 (#4 on body) +(1st vsp previous row). Continue with |
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Lower Wings SR1: 3 / vsp (#5 top right hand side body) 4 SR2: 3 +(vsp #6 on body) 4 – 2 / 6 Ch: 2 R3: 4 +B(SR2) 2 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R4: 3 +B(last p R3) 3 – 3 – 3 |
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Ch: 6 R5: 4 +B(last p R4) 4 – 4 – 4 Ch: 6 SR6: 4 +B(last p R5) 4 / 8 Ch: 3 SR7: 6 / 4 BBBB 4 Ch: 3 SR8: 4 – 4 / 8 Ch: 6 R9: 4 +B(last p R8) 4 +B(2nd p R5) 4 – 4 Ch: 6 R10: 3 +B(last p R9) 3 +B(2nd p R4) 3 – 3 Ch: 6 SR11: 2 +B(last p R10) 2 +B(2nd p R3) 2 / 4 +(#7 vsp on body) Ch: 8 +(#1 vsp on body) SR12: 2 – 2 – 2 / 4 Ch: 6 R13: 3 +B(last p R12) 3 – 3 – 3 Ch: 6 R14: 4 +B(last p R13) 4 – 4 – 4 Ch: 6 SR15 4 +B(last p R14) 4 / 8 Ch: 3 SR16 6 / 4 BBBB 4 Ch: 3 SR17: 4 – 4 / 8 Ch: 6 R18: 4 +B(last p SR17) 4 +B(R14) 4 – 4 Ch: 6 R19: 3 +B(last p R18) 3 +B(R13) 3 – 3 Ch: 6 R20: 2 +B(last p R19) 2 +B(1st p R12) 2 – 4 Ch: 2 SR21: 2 +B(R20) 4 +(#2 vsp on body) 3 / 6 SR22: 3 / 4 +(#3 vsp on body) T & C |
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First Upper Wing Join to #7 vsp at bottom right hand side of body and proceed with R1: 4 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R2: 2 +B(last p R1) 2 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R3: 2 +B(last p R2) 2 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R4: 2 +B(last p R3) 2 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R5: 2 +B(last p R4) 2 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R6: 2 +B(last p R5) 2 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 |
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SR7: 2 +B(last p R6) 2 – 2 / 2 Ch: 5 Vlp (space for 11 beads) 1 SR8: 2 +B(SR7) 2 / 2 Vlp(space for 7 beads) 2 SR9: 2 +B(SR6) 2 / 2 Vlp(space for 5 beads) 2 SR10: 3 +B(SR5) 3 / 3 – 3 SR11: 3 +B(SR4) 3 / 3 – 3 Change Wsh2 Ch: 2 Change Wsh1 SR12: 2 +B(R3) 2 – 2 – 2 / 4 Change Wsh2 Ch: 2 SR13: 3 +B(SR11) 3 / 3 – 3 SR14: 3 +B(SR10) 3 / 3 – 3 SR15: 2 +BBBBB(SR9) 2 / 2 – 2 SR16: 2 +BBBBBBB(SR8) 2 / 2 – 2 SR17: 6 / 3 – 3 Change Wsh1 Ch: 1 +BBBBBBBBBBB(Vlp on Ch Btwn SR7 & SR8) 7 SR18: 2 +B(SR17) 2 – 2 / 2 Ch: 6 R19: 2 +B(SR18) 2 +B(SR16) 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R20: 2 +B(SR19) 2 +B(SR15) 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R21: 2 +B(SR20) 2 +B(SR14) 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R22: 2 +B(SR21) 2 +B(SR13) 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R23: 2 +B(SR22) 2 +B(3rd p SR12) 2 – 2 Ch: 3 +(#7 vsp on body using Wsh1 thread) R24: 4 +B(R23) 4 +B(2nd p SR12) 4 +B(R2) 6 +B(R1) 4 Continue to head Head Ch: 2 – 2 +(#4 vsp on body) Change to WSh2 R:25 2 +(p on last Ch) 6 Vlp (18”) 4 Vlp (18”) 6 – 2 Change to Wsh1 Ch: 2 +(R25) 2 +(#5 vsp on body) Second Upper Wing R26: 4 – 6 – 4 – 4 – 4 Ch: 3 R27: 2 +B(R26) 2 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R28: 2 +B(R27) 2 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R29: 2 +B(R28) 2 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R30: 2 +B(R29) 2 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R31: 2 +B(R30) 2 – 2 – 2 Ch: 6 SR32: 2 +B(R31) 2 – 2 / 2 Ch: 7 Vlp(space for 11 beads) 1 SR33: 3 +B(SR32) 3 / 6 SR34: 2 +B(R31) 2 / 2 Vlp(space for 7 beads) 2 SR35: 2 +B(R30) 2 / 2 Vlp(space for 5 beads) 2 SR36: 3 +B(R29) 3 / 3 – 3 SR37: 3 +B(R28) 3 / 3 – 3 Change to Wsh2 Ch: 2 Change to Wsh1 SR38: 2 +B(R27) 2 +B(R26) 2 – 2 / 4 Change to Wsh2 Ch: 2 SR39: 3 +B(SR37) 3 / 3 – 3 SR40: 3 +B(SR36) 3 / 3 – 3 SR41: 2 +BBBBB(SR35) 2 / 2 – 2 SR42: 2 +BBBBBBB(SR34) 2 / 2 – 2 Change to Wsh1 Ch: 1 +BBBBBBBBBBB(Vlp of Ch btwn SR32 & SR33) 5 SR43: 2 +B(SR42) 2 – 2 / 2 Ch: 6 R44: 2 +B(R43) 2 +B(SR41) 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R45: 2 +(R44) 2 +B(SR40) 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R46: 2 +B(R45) 2 +B(SR39) 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R47: 2 +B(R46) 2 +B(SR38) 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R48: 2 +B(R47) 2 +B(2nd p R26) 2 – 2 Ch: 6 R49: 2 +B(R48) 2 +B(1st p R26) 4 T & C to vsp #1 on body Feelers Take the Vlp (18”) and cut leaving 5” on the side nearest the wing to finger tat with. Make a chain of 12, tie a knot and cut. Do the same with the other Vlp (18”). If you should need any help of find any mistakes in this pattern, please email me. |