The Rossendale Rambler

DAY ONE.
As Walter dropped Lisa and me off at Spean Bridge, I wondered if had I bitten off more than I could chew !

I had come to Scotland with ten of the Rossendale Ramblers for a week of day walks based at the Grey Corries Bunkhouse at Roy Bridge.

Lisa and Cheryl were four days into the ‘Great Outdoors Challenge’ coast to coast walk across Scotland. After fifty miles of carrying heavy packs, Cheryl’s feet were too blistered to carry on and she had decided to retire from the walk. Lisa looked very depressed as I chatted to her at the bar, it was her first attempt at the challenge but she felt she could not go on alone. Always willing to help a damsel in distress, I offered to accompany her if I could manage to borrow a sleeping bag; Cheryl immediately offered me hers and so the challenge was on.

After a sleepless night the rucksacks were re-packed, shedding some unnecessary items including a bottle of malt whisky. Walter volunteered to run us to Spean Bridge where Lisa and Cheryl had limped through the previous afternoon. It was nine o’clock as we waved goodbye to Walter and turned to make our way up the Lairig Leacach.

All I knew about Lisa was her name and that she was determined to trek across to Montrose, over one hundred miles away. It was too late to back out now !

With a strong, cold headwind blowing, we were glad of shelter in the bothy at lunch time. As we continued up the glen the wind dropped and the sun came out as we headed round Loch Treig to walk by the West Highland Railway Line to the Corrour Station Bunkhouse, which has been vastly improved by the new owners.

Lisa was dubious about sharing her tent with a stranger so she was glad to find a bed in the bunkhouse for the first night and a chance to get to know me a little better. There are separate dormitories for men and women, two kitchens and a superb dining room in the converted signal box, with panoramic views all round.

As we chatted the evening away with the other backpackers, we watched the sunset and, later, the moon rise; a great way to end the first day.

DAY TWO.
Our path led us past the Youth Hostel, which was fully booked by a school party, then along the shore of Loch Ossian where the rhododendrons were in bloom. Following a riverside path, we crossed over the Bealach Dubh below Ben Alder, descending to the Culra Bothy. There we carried on over the suspension footbridge and camped near Loch Pattack on a perfect evening with another glorious sunset. We left the tent flap open until the stars came out.

DAY THREE.
Reaching Loch Ericht we came upon a building site . A large mansion was under construction looking like a fairytale castle. The Landrover track had been upgraded to carry the lorry loads of materials. We stopped for lunch at the restaurant in Dalwhinnie before taking the old road to Newtonmore. Shortly before reaching the bunkhouse we were caught in a thunderstorm but the thought of hot showers and bunks for the night kept us going.

DAY FOUR.
First stop the Post Office where we lightened our load sending home three of the maps we had finished with. Leaving Kingussie behind, we passed the remains of Ruthven Barracks, following forest tracks, we entered Glen Feshie, a beautiful glen with large, old pine trees. We camped a short distance past the bothy. As it grew dark a lone backpacker approached , it was Val whom we had met at Corrour Station Bunkhouse. Lisa and I provided the Southern Comfort and later, Val served hot chocolate.

DAY FIVE.
Continuing along Loch Feshie we came across an American couple taking part in the challenge, both had taken part before in what was becoming an international event. We crossed the watershed to follow the Geldie Burn, turning north into a cold headwind to camp near White Bridge.

DAY SIX.
The thought of an extended lunch-stop in Braemar spurred us on through the Linn of Dee. As we passed Victoria Bridge, which crosses over the River Dee leading to the Mar Lodge Estate, it was good to see the once locked gates were now wide open and a sign saying "Walkers Welcome". We had lunch in the Fife Arms Hotel in Braemar, along with numerous other walkers, before setting off mid-afternoon for Glen Callater. We passed the bothy and lodge by the loch to camp higher up the glen on another pleasant evening.

DAY SEVEN.
We were now taking Jock’s Road over to Glen Doll but first there was the stiff climb out of Glen Callater, taking you over the three thousand foot contour. In mist a map and compass would be essential but today we only needed sun cream !

Dropping down into Glen Doll we passed a plaque in memory of five Glasgow hikers who perished here in a blizzard over New Year in 1959. Further down the glen we met three Americans, wearing only shorts, tee-shirts and trainers, who told us they were walking to Braemar. They appeared to have no maps, spare clothing or provisions for a walk which would take them seven or eight hours in terrain where spring could turn to winter in a couple of hours. We found out later that they were directed down the right glen, having missed their way, by a fellow challenger who said he watched as they went blithely on their way. We continued to Glen Clova to camp by the hotel, there to enjoy a proper dinner and the company of a dozen or more other challengers.

DAY EIGHT.
It was hard going on the tarmac down Glen Clova so we took refreshment in the Dyke Head Hotel at lunch time. We lingered for a couple of hours as it was only a short distance to the campsite at Memus, which was much improved since I last called there in 1983.

DAY NINE.
We woke early to the sound of rain on the tent, ate the last of our food and set off on the final leg to Montrose. We reached Brechin after twelve miles to have lunch - only eight miles to go now. Nine hours and twenty miles after leaving Memus, we were at the Park Hotel in Montrose and the Challenge Headquarters, where Lisa collected her badge and certificate. Together we had walked 137 miles in nine days. I had been re-introduced to the joys of backpacking and loved it. The problem is, should I buy a one or two person tent? Any offers ladies?

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