My objective is to provide kits which provide good value for whatever you decide to spend; consequently I put my design effort into the circuitry, and its cost reduction, because most builders will leave the circuit unchanged but they are often very happy to adapt the mechanical aspects themselves. All kits contain brand new quality components. Like much of life, you get what you pay for so don't expect phenomenal performance from a simple rig! Much effort goes into avoiding parts whose cost would be excessive compared to others in that particular kit - leading eventually to a well balanced design. Another important objective with the more advanced kits, is to provide scope for the builder to customize it. The instructions provided with each kit are extensive and detail the recommended build sequence, with suggested tests after each stage so that confidence grows as the rig is built. Part numbers are not printed on the PCB, but for the more complex kits, a unique grid reference system is used to help you locate individual part positions.
The design work tries to ensure that each kit can be built and tested easily, and will work reliably despite the tolerances on part values and 'disturbances' due to supply or temperature variations. Several models of each kit are built before they are generally released so that there is a high confidence that, if the instructions are properly followed, it will work as intended - but see below!
All kits contain the full set of parts required to build the rig in the basic 'open' or unboxed style, this includes all controls, knobs, sockets (and matching plugs if you are unlikely to have them) together with rubber feet. The simpler kits are built in a 'flat' format where the controls are mounted directly onto the main circuit PCB. For others, either a small etched front panel is included for the small upright format, or an extra single sided un-etched PCB (with strengthening braces) is included as a simple front panel which can be attached to the main board. This open style of construction is fine for bench use and gives good ventilation for improved reliability/stability; it also allows access to both sides of the PCB for building/testing. If you wish, the rigs can be easily installed in conventional boxes which is essential for mobile or portable work. In general, my advice is to build the rig in its simplest form first and, after experience, then decide what extra controls you want and box accordingly. Quite often, the presets - or the special 'shafted' presets used in simple rigs - can be changed to conventional front panel pots if you want better facilities. This approach gives the least initial cost but allows enhancements when wanted. The photo below shows my bench with a potential design going through some early tests on my bench!

The use of building by stages, with tests after each section, helps to minimise problems; however if you do get stuck, you can always contact me for advice by phone, letter, FAX or e mail. If this fails to eventually get it working, I am quite happy by arrangement to have the kit back for investigation/repair. If it turns out to be my fault through poor design or faulty parts, then I don't charge; however if its a proven design and somewhere the builder has gone wrong, then I make a modest charge based on the time taken to fix it with postage and part costs extra. Whenever you seek advice, or return a rig, please provide as much detailed information as possible on the problem. If you do damage parts, spares are readily available for most rigs but see below about paying for small value items!
If you are purchasing a kit, consider joining the Club so that you can get the benefit of other people's experiences. It is a postal Club open to all by a yearly subscription. Members receive the quarterly newsletter Hot Iron with articles on circuits for amateur radio receivers, transmitters, test gear, antennae, construction methods, new kit developments, and feedback on builders experiences. Articles, notes, experiences, hints and tips from builders other than myself are especially welcome. I will gladly attempt to answer member's questions. To keep it interesting your contributions are essential! Hot Iron does not have advertisements and is usually eight sides of A4. For simplicity all subscriptions start on Sept. 1st of each year with back issues sent as required. The subscription and your name and address is all that is required. The cost is £7 per year including postage (£9 for overseas members).
The prices for each kit do not include carriage so please add £3 for
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