Archive
index   Go to the Archive index


Treasure in Haute-Provence

Laurence Jamieson

We were all SAD, suffering from Sunshine Deficiency Syndrome, so with the October school holiday break looming plans were carefully laid for a budget trip to warmer climes.  Research by my wife Jane revealed the possibility of flying from Inverness, our local airport 50 miles south of home, via Luton, to Nice.  That'll do 'nicely' (sorry about the pun), Mum , son Hamish and I agreed.  Basic, uneventful flight courtesy of Easy Jet and arrival in Nice to weather at least 10 degrees warmer than home - just what the doctor ordered!

Further research by me had revealed the existence of the Train de Pignes - a narrow-gauge railway which follows the River Var from Nice to Dignes-le-Bains, about 100 miles through spectacular scenery and engineering feats, made even more so by stunning autumn colours.  The little town of Entrevaux with mediaeval fortress towering above just begged to be explored.  So we hopped off the train and looked into the local hotel.  Surprise, surprise: the hotel bar/dining room is decorated with 2 VéloSoleXes, a scooter and, pièce de resistance, a 1951 Narcisse tandem powered by a Aubier Dunne engine.  Enquiries of Madame la patronne revealed the existence of le Musée de la Moto d'Entrevaux just over the river from the hotel in the old town itself.  Having done justice to the hotel's superb Provençal home cooking, we set off to find le musée; somewhat fearful that, being out of season it would be closed.  Following the signs through the narrow streets, most too narrow for cars, eventually brought us to the place and-what a relief-a sign "Ouvert Dimanche" - open on Sunday - tomorrow!

What a place!  The following morning we discovered that the museum is the second largest collection of motorbikes, mopeds and motor assisted bicycles in France, all packed into the two floors of one of the narrow old town houses.  About 70 motos are on display, ranging through a 1944 British Army BSA, Belgian FN, Velocette LE, Moto Guzzi, MV Augusta.  Moto Graziella 1974 (folding handlebars, and pedals, trailing link front fork, and 50cc Sachs), Cyclemaster (lady's Raleigh frame), Mosquito 1948, Ducati Cucciolo 1949 (interesting frame with rear rubber band suspension), Solex - including an example of first model made - all the familiar names were there, plus unfamiliar French(?) models.  Ardent 1951 (like a child's shopper with 10inch wheels), Whizzer 1947, Lacombe 1924 and VAP 1946 vélomoteurs.  Never thinking that we'd need it, the camera flash had been left at home, but f1.8, a steady hand and 1-sec. shutter speed did produce some reasonable photos, despite the lack of light!  Unfortunately, the narrow building - it can only be about 12 feet wide - means that many models have to be displayed on shelves high up on the walls, but apart from getting a crick in the neck, it didn't spoil our enjoyment.  Old metal signs, posters, engines, oil cans and magazine cuttings punctuate the display and add flavour.  The collection is owned by father and son Messieurs Lucani.  M Lucani senior was present during our visit, but detailed communication was difficult due to my basic French and his lack of English!

If you find yourself in the south east corner of France, or why not make a special journey, the museum and the railway really are worth a visit.  The museum address is: Le Musée de la Moto, Entrevaux, Haute-Provence, France, tel: 04 93 79 12 70.


First published, December 1998

Archive
index   Go to the Archive index