"SuperDoc" Contax Hacking Page...
With thanks to Mr Okayan's Hack Contax Page
The "SuperDoc" Universal Contax Lens/Hood Shadecap
35mm Lens Hood ?
28mm Lens Hood
46mm Heliopan Hoods
Sunken Lens Release Button
Wrong Colour Filters & Hoods ?
QED - Hood Graph Measurements
Parallax Errors - Nagging Doubts & Workarounds
"SuperDoc" Universal Contax Lens/Hood Shadecap -Contax designed their lens hoods to be used with only one filter at any one time. As these hoods are cylindrical they only work at maximum effectiveness at the corners of the rectangular film plane with other areas being less effective. Yashica used to provide rectangular lens hoods for their 'ML' and earlier lens range. These were attached to the lens body by a neat clamp. These were very effective and were beautifully made.
28mm Lens Hood - If you are not using any filter then the deeper GG2 hood works well. The GG1 is computed for using one filter in combination with the GG1 hood. (See graph)
35mm Lens Hood ? - Contax/Kyocera have been (query ??) a
bit slack suggesting that the 28mm GG1 hood is OK for the 35mm lens. For un-thinking
perfectionists this will definitely not do.
Take it Away...
1.) When measured on graph paper the GG1 is fine. The reason being that that the 28mm lens has a smaller diameter glass front lens than the 35mm lens and as the angle of view is greater with the 28mm lens the hood depth for each can be the same. (See graph)
46mm Heliopan Hoods - If you decide to use these narrower diameter lens hoods then you will need to shorten them quite a lot. The measurements are as follows (without thread depth):
|Lens||46mm Hood Depth|
If you are definitely NOT using filters then add 4mm to the
above figures. (See graph)
Depending on one's skill cut down the hood to the required length. How you do this is up to you - either buy a dozen and practice or if still in doubt use a local machine shop.
Sunken Lens Release Button - To
speed up lens changing this button needs to be more easily found without fumbling (Look at
any Minolta or Canon release button). At DIY stores there are little self-adhesive
round pads that stick on cheap kitchen units to deaden the sound when the doors are
closed. Paint if required (though they seem to come in clearish plastic) and stick
one on the lens release button. They come off reasonably easily and any residual
glue can be removed without damage to the finish.
(NB As your adhesive is likely to be different from mine and this 'hack' involves direct action on the body of the camera, test carefully on say the base of your own camera first in case you can't get it off easily.)
Wrong Colour Filters & Hoods ? - Non-original
filters and hoods (see above) do not have the benefit of the gorgeous Contax titanium
colour. (I am not keen on black Contax G cameras or lenses so will disregard them as
an aberration as I will also do with gold plated and lizard covered cameras beloved by
Leica M nuts.)
Take it Away...
1.) My artistically minded "Better Half" suggested using her silver permanent marker (Made in Japan) to paint the outside rim of my black Hoya filters. The end result looks great but not quite 'Titanium' colour close-to. I may need to take her gold marker apart and add a drop or two of gold to the silver reservoir to give it the slightest creamy gold Titanium sheen. One problem with completely painting is that you cover the type i.e. 81D, 1A etc. You can leave the bit containing the info so you have white on silver (?) or you can look to a white surface through the filter and guess the filter type!
Parallax Errors - Nagging Doubts & Workarounds - Under Construction as I collect my thoughts.